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Scrapping another FP4A D11

Oil pump is electric. Gets triggered by the control.
It circulates the oil (uses) the oil that is in the “Y” slide for the spindle gear box.
Oil goes to lube the vertical bevel gear set.
It returns to the sump (Y) through an ingenious dry brake setup.
Allows the oil to drain to the “Y” sump when running vertical.
When going horizontal and the vertical head is “flipped” the dry brake closes off the drain back to prevent leakage.
Need for the circulating oil on the vertical is due to the higher spindle speed ( 6300 RPM)
Cheers Ross
 
Ok so then the oil returns to the upper or to the lower ‘half’ of the Y slide? As the Y slide has somehow 2 levels w the front one being closest to the head being lower. In the Y slide there is a ridge with a hole in so if the rear level (the one you fill
through the hole w the strainer at the back) gets high enough it can run into the fromt lower section. The front section has on first sight no drain. I sucked out the old oil w a automotive oil extractor.

If the head is tilted up one can indeed see at the bottom this dry break. On the other side further up the is also a machined port that could carry a oring I think but it has no counter bore in the Y slide. As if they decided late on to supply oil externally with the clear line versus through a port.
 
here is all what I could read from the floppy. the one 37 kB file was damaged and could not be read. you can see in the screenshot. this is a zip file so you have to remove the .txt an then open it w winzip or something. I would not upload as a .zip
 

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Ive renewed the oil line and I am a bit suprised how little oil is being pumped to the head. After a cold start the 1st time the spindle is turned on there is one squirt, this is approx 30mm of oil in the clear line. the its roughly every 5 min another one.
 
The front section has on first sight no drain. I sucked out the old oil w a automotive oil extractor.

I posted the following on your other thread, so here again:


The FP4NC has two oil sight glasses.
Oil is filled at the rear of the “Y” ram.
Oil fills the rear section then spills over to fill the front portion.
There are two drain plugs to allow draining the front and rear sumps.
The front drain is a bit difficult to find.
It is located on the underside of the “Y” slide ways.
To gain access you must move the “Y” forward as far as possible ( to the e-stop)
Then the plug will just be forward of the face of the box ways.
Draining can run oil down the vertical ways. I form some sheet metal into a “ski jump” and stick it to the face of the ways using duct tape.
When the plug is removed the oil runs down the face of the”Z” ways , hits the sheet metal and runs out to the metal end and waterfalls into my drain pan sitting on the top of the “Z” slide.
To gain access to the rear sump unsnap the rear bellows from the machine column. Plug will be visible on the bottom of the “Y” slide, just like the front.
Cheers Ross

On edit, you can fill the forward oil sump by sliding the upper section of the "Y" slide back enough to add oil there directly , rather than wait for the rear sump to fill and level out.....
Of course if you move the upper section, it is required that it be aligned to within .001" of total run out to the lower section when returning it to the normal flush position.....(tram using teh "Z" slide movement)
 
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Gearing does not require much oil to be OK.....
The 3150 machines are to be drained of collected oil from the gear housing every 30 days or so....Just retains whatever oil is on the gears, no oil puddling in the case.
Original manuals call for keeping a level in that housing, but that was updated by the factory to the draining schedule.
Flip heads have drain back , so no oil sump collecting there either.

Cheers Ross
 
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I posted the following on your other thread, so here again:


The FP4NC has two oil sight glasses.
Oil is filled at the rear of the “Y” ram.
Oil fills the rear section then spills over to fill the front portion.
There are two drain plugs to allow draining the front and rear sumps.
The front drain is a bit difficult to find.
It is located on the underside of the “Y” slide ways.
To gain access you must move the “Y” forward as far as possible ( to the e-stop)
Then the plug will just be forward of the face of the box ways.
Draining can run oil down the vertical ways. I form some sheet metal into a “ski jump” and stick it to the face of the ways using duct tape.
When the plug is removed the oil runs down the face of the”Z” ways , hits the sheet metal and runs out to the metal end and waterfalls into my drain pan sitting on the top of the “Z” slide.
To gain access to the rear sump unsnap the rear bellows from the machine column. Plug will be visible on the bottom of the “Y” slide, just like the front.
Cheers Ross

On edit, you can fill the forward oil sump by sliding the upper section of the "Y" slide back enough to add oil there directly , rather than wait for the rear sump to fill and level out.....
Of course if you move the upper section, it is required that it be aligned to within .001" of total run out to the lower section when returning it to the normal flush position.....(tram using teh "Z" slide movement)
I think on mine they forgot the plug for the front section. I drove the Y as far fwd as it would go and theres no plug.. I expected it to be there also but it wasnt 😅

So when you say one has to align the slide, doesnt that do it by itself when tightening the 4 big allen bolts from the fliphead? Or what is the procedure? I was about to order a manual for the machine at Franz Singer but theyre close now till 7/1 it seems.

Edit:

Toots, it seems one really manually has to turn it past the limit switch to uncover the plug. Before I had just with the handwheel drove it towards the stop. 😜

This table looks as someone has already scraped it once, or did they came like that from
Deckel?
 

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Yep, plug in the bottom of the "Y" only visible when you move the slide as far out as possible. (as stated above to the E-stop) Easier to remove the plug if you first remove the wiper.
Before you move the slide fully out, remove the side screws (under rubber plugs) that retain the way wiper. Then move the slide forward as you pull on the wiper helps move it out.
Good idea to replace all the way wipers, especially the ones on the "Z", most important, the wiper on top of the "Z" slide......
Scraped is not factory...original finish is planned. Should have stripes or islands running the long direction of the table. Done at approx 6mm pitch. lots of idiot rash there......
You need a manual....
Cheers Ross
 
Ill confirm the order on the manuals and new seals for the X scale as soon as Singer opens again in 2024.
 
Ill have to see all what was w the machine in terms of covers and wipers etc. Whole box full of stuff. I thought i had seen some Z wipers and also like a brass plate of the same shape as the Z wiper plastic
 
The bronze piece is a doubler for the “Z” top wiper. ( unique to the FP4NC)
Goes on top of the molded wiper, and below the steel top cover.

To install wiper move the “Z” slide to mid travel.
Remove the old wiper. Move the slide down several inches.
Clean ways install spacer, new wiper, bronze piece and top cover.

Cheers Ross
 
Ill post some pics when I have it on. Thanks for the tips.

Because ill only be able to get a new wiper from Franz in in januari, I though to try to connect the 3M to a PC. So it seems I need to make a dsub 25 to dsub 9 cable and maybe someone has an idea what software I need to run on the pc to transfer part programs to the 3M
 
No help on the com program for your 3-M here.
I have Dialog 4 and SutfCam which has a communication program within.
Can tell you the cable setup for the Dialog, not sure it is what your control will need.

Cheers Ross
 
Data transfer works. I made the cable according to this diagram and used these settings.
 

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