What's new
What's new

Smaller quantities of shim stock

MyLilMule

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
I've got a K&T 2HL that I am trying to rehab (not rebuild) and the table gib has seen better days.

Besides being a banana (I straightened it already to at least a reasonable degree of straightness), it has been broken and brazed back together at one end, has some significant scoring on the sliding side, and is worn down about .013" at my best estimation.

I have neither the capability or the means to properly machine and scrape a new gib, so I am just interested in making this machine work as best I can for now.

However, to find .013" shim stock that's at least 1" wide and 24" long has been met with limited success. I am a hobbyist and I don't have a need for a 6" x 50" roll at $60 a roll (McMaster). I have a limited budget. Are there OTHER sources of shim stock where I can save a little bit of money? Someone on another forum suggested multiple layers of shim tape. Is this a viable solution? I wouldn't be able to get it in the exact dimension.

Thoughts on where else to look? My Google-Fu is not returning any viable results.
 
.013" is not in that assortment. I'd have to use .012" - which MIGHT work, but it would push the small end of the gib too far to the other end.

Also, only being 12" long, I'd have to use 2 shims and I don't think it would stay in place. I wouldn't think using some kind of glue would be something I could do. Never done this before.

 
I think I may have found something the is not exact, but should/could work and is a lot less expensive. I can get 6" x 25" sheets in either .012" or .015" for around $20 for a pack of 2 sheets. I would need to decide if I can get away with either of those and still get the result I need. I think I would rather it went in a little too far, than not far enough. You can see from these photos, that with the gib "centered", it overhangs on both sides. Which I find odd, because I assume it's the original gib since it has the serial number stamped in it. If it's in a little further, the left end is OK, but I would have to extend the screw notch on the right end. That shouldn't pose any issues, right?

IMG_9528.jpegIMG_9529.jpeg
 
Also, only being 12" long, I'd have to use 2 shims and I don't think it would stay in place. I wouldn't think using some kind of glue would be something I could do. Never done this before.

For what it's worth, I fixed up a bridgeport saddle gib by gluing shim stock to the back of it. I used Loctite 380 Black Max toughened cyanoacrylate adhesive.

I intended the fix to be temporary and will eventually make and scrape in a new gib. But it's been in there and working for a couple years now.
 
You don't necessarily need it a continuous length either. One reason they become banana shaped is they get wore at either end, while the middle not so much.

If you get the gib straight-ish, and putting shims on adjusting screw side. . . Putting a shim lets say 4" or 5" long on each end of gib, will give you and the gib good leverage to keep table from rocking back and forth.

With shims on adjusting screw side, they will not act as a way surface, they are just glued in place as a spacer, and wont move. In a pinch, sacrifice two feeler blades as shims, one at either end.

An additional fyi, with gib wore like this, surely dovetail of table is as well. Where the combined width of dovetail, at either end of the table, will be wider than the width at center of table. So you are going to have to adjust within a certain gray area. . .

Meaning if you adjust gib snug with table centered, table will be bindy as you reach the ends of travel. Or if you adjust at end of table, you will have mild play at center, etc. . . Regardless, this repair/adjustment will greatly improve rigidity prior to you touching it. Just keep in mind it won't be dead perfect until table dovetail scraped in a bit.
 
Last edited:
I have no illusions about getting dead perfect, but I'd like to do it as "right" as I can the first time, without turning to a hack. At least precision shim stock is a known quantity - 29 or 30 gauge sheet metal has a 30 thou tolerance or more. Someone even suggested using a strip of paper or card stock. I can't see that being very stable.

Incidentally, there are two screw sides, not one. If I only put one screw in, it's going to move. I have to use both (I tried, just to see, because to get it in some kind of "adjustment" required bottoming out the left screw and removing the right - it wasn't long enough. This cause the gib to move and bound up the table - had to get creative to loosen it back up enough to remove the gib.

I might try the adhesive shim strips. I ordered some from McMaster just to have it. Three of them would make .012 and then I can decide if I want to go further and add another .004" to it.
 
Back in the day, it was no big issue to use Formica counter top material for shimming gibs with. I've seen banding material used too. I like Texasgreartrain's idea of securing a section of shim stock at each end of the gib to prevent "rocking" of the table. Generally on long gibs, you do want the middle or midways with a slight under cut to reduce the chance of your table rocking when moved.
Word about the gib screws, don't tighten the crap out of the screws, securing the gib in place. Gently tighten is all they need. If one of the two screws is not within the counter bore, let it be the one on the small end.
 








 
Back
Top