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Spindle liners - 3D printed???

I have bought a couple cheap rolls off Amazon. Esun I think?

But haven’t used them yet. I have stuck with the Bambu stuff just to hopefully cut out part of the learning curve for a failed print. Another bonus is somehow they get filament to me in the middle of nowhere, well to the nearby town which is in middle of nowhere as well, over night, and for free if I spend $60 Canadian.
I've had good experience with Esun pla.
 
If you have a friend that is maybe upgrading to something else and offers you a "killer deal" on a five year old printer, take it and see if you use it. Pay $300 for a used printer and worse case, sell it to someone else for $250. Give it to a teen or tweenager getting into printing and CAD. Take it outside and light fire to it. It was only $250.
Mea Culpa: That is exactly how I ended up with a uPrint machine and all it's accessories.
Hauled it into the shop some 3 years ago, put it into the office and never touched it since.
Have all the accesories, extra print trays, full spools of media, even a cleaning station.
Now, I just want someone to come and take it away so I can perhaps get a new one with current technology and more common media.
 
For anybody on the fence about buying a 3D printer: every one of these threads devolves into guys sharing all their experiences and this nuance and that nuance (meaning well). And then it becomes feature overload, you're not sure what price point to jump in at and so you do nothing: analysis paralysis. You're not sure you want to drop $500-1,000 on something you might not use. That's where I was for too many years.

I stumbled onto a Creality Ender 3D clone (Longer LK5) for $100 at Goodwill. It had a bad power switch. I fixed that, aligned it, downloaded the slicer software, ordered some regular old PLA filament and I've been printing since. I've got more money in filament than I do in hardware. Total maybe $250?

And I've printed a ton of stuff. I even made a close-out to fill a gap in my VF-2's sheet metal (around the tool changer structure). I shared the indicator holder earlier. I printed custom sized trays for the toolboxes for all the various sized vise screws, stops and pins.

The recommendations for the Bambu stuff seem to be universal but, almost any printer is better than no printer. Like any other machine, you'll evolve your tastes, wants and needs as you learn to use it but, don't let all this talk stop you from jumping on the train.

If you have a friend that is maybe upgrading to something else and offers you a "killer deal" on a five year old printer, take it and see if you use it. Pay $300 for a used printer and worse case, sell it to someone else for $250. Give it to a teen or tweenager getting into printing and CAD. Take it outside and light fire to it. It was only $250.

With all that said, a buddy of mine bought a Creality Ender 5 just before I bought mine and he hasn't taken it out of the box. It's not for everyone. :D

Exactly why I didn’t buy one for a long time. I didn’t want to have to tinker and figure out more stuff on how to just make it work “ok”

PRUSA, Bambu and so many others seem like they are almost 100% plug and play now which is nice and what I needed to jump in. Still a ton to learn.
 
Not holding onto it tho because of the proprietary media ( as I understand it )
It's ABS. It might be wound onto proprietary spools but, I can't imagine they did more than that. There has to be numerous ways around that. Presumably that has the enclosure and heated volume so you can do ABS. I can't do that because mine doesn't have an enclosure.

And are you sure you can't wind other materials onto the spools, and/or print new hubs or adapters? I've only somewhat paid attention to all the anti Stratasys posts.
 
I am only going by what I was told.
Place that handed it down to me first went with the larger model ( 16" cube I think ) Stratasys, but a year or so later switched to different machine altogether because the far cheaper and wider range of print materials.
 
Well now I'm thinking he X-1 ..not that much more for the added stuff.
Not buying for trinkets, will use for liners and other shop stuff.
Prototyping parts, which we do a lot of...maybe print one first?
Might not be exact but close enough to get the idea.
What if I want a hex liner, well, machine on site, print one.
Can easily see recoup on money .....
 
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Well now I'm thinking he X-1 ..not that much more for the added stuff.
Not buying for trinkets, will use for liners and other shop stuff.
Prototyping parts, which we do a lot of...maybe print one first?
Might not be exact but close enough to get the idea.
What if I want a hex liner, well, machine on site, print one.
Can easily see recoup on money .....
If that's the kind of thing you're after, then I'd suggest that the V400 has an edge on the X1 - it is slightly faster and can print significantly taller parts. People that have both have said the V400 is quieter too, but I have no way to confirm or deny that.

The build volume is completely different between the two due to the completely different kinematics - the V400 is a cylindrical (Ø300 x 400mm high) build volume while the X1 is cubic (256mm cube). V400 can print a larger diameter, while the X1 can print a larger square.

The V400 is very tall though, you need a decent amount of space for it.

Edit:

I just noticed that FLSUN will be releasing the V400's successor soon, which looks pretty incredible. They claim 1200mm/s print speed, literally twice as fast as the V400...

 
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in the Stratasys printers I've used, yes. I assume the uPrint is the same, but the old Dimension Elite and the current F123 series have a chip on the spool/cartridge.
So couldn't you just respool different filament on to it? or is the issue you can't modify their settings in the machine?
 
The big issue I had with my Prusa was getting PLA to stick to the PEI plate. despite being extra careful cleaning the plate could not get prints to stick to the plate reliably.

So have been using the Elmers glue.

One thing that works is to apply Elmers. get a hot cloth, wipe the Elmers to melt it and wipe it over the plate. So getting a very thin screed of Elmers on the plate. Works well.

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Friend has two Bambu's. Said he's never cleaned the build plates, never had a print come loose. Not sure if there's any difference between the Prusa and Bambu materials.
 
The big issue I had with my Prusa was getting PLA to stick to the PEI plate. despite being extra careful cleaning the plate could not get prints to stick to the plate reliably.

So have been using the Elmers glue.

One thing that works is to apply Elmers. get a hot cloth, wipe the Elmers to melt it and wipe it over the plate. So getting a very thin screed of Elmers on the plate. Works well.

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Friend has two Bambu's. Said he's never cleaned the build plates, never had a print come loose. Not sure if there's any difference between the Prusa and Bambu materials.

The Bambu cool PLA plate I have had stuff not stick. Have to use the glue stick and do it correctly. the not sticking was due to my lack of being careful with the glue.
 








 
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