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StanF South Bend 9A Rebuild Thread

Matt lookin at that spacer ya made is the top piece with all the holes something that ya repurposed for this use ? I just went & measured mine & unfortunately mind has the large dimension like StanF's mill .
Wilton vise finished...
Sanded and painted:
IMG_9214 (Small).jpg
(the roll pin was proud on the original casting too)
IMG_9237 (Small).jpg

IMG_9239 (Small).jpg
I'll try to get it mounted to my bench in the next week or so. I have to move the base over to make room for it, which isn't easy.
Three Lathe Questions!
1. Compound Locking Screw

One feature that I've been missing is a compound locking screw. Has anyone else solved this issue? Either by drilling and tapping another location or by utilizing one of the gib screws? I like it because it helps with overall rigidity - I also lock the carriage when I can.

2. Tailstock Die Holders
An upcoming drawbar project will require some 1/2-13 and 5/8-11 threads on both ends of a shaft. I could single point, but I was thinking about using a tailstock die holder. I've never tried it with threads that large, and I'm questioning if it will work well.

3. Turning Large Part
Another upcoming project...making a ram for the Rockwell horizontal. The finished ram is about 3.25" OD x 24" long, and it will just barely fit on my 9A. The stock will be a tube with 1/2" wall and will be turned down to 3.125". Just because it fits doesn't mean that I should! That feels like a huge piece on a little 9A. I am wondering the largest pieces that others have turned on their SB9...

On the compound locking screw. I don't use one, keep all of the gib screws snugged gently tight. If I need to use the compound, I will loosen them slightly for movement. Most of the time, I can move the compound generally no more than a revolution or two with too much trouble, like when threading.

Turning a large diameter part in the 9" SBL, I've done it. It takes patients and tool bits ground for removing metal easily. Yeah, you won't be able to take .060" to the side, maybe .030" with the right tool geometry. You going to get chatter sometimes but you learn how to overcome it by playing with your cutting tool geometry. For this, you want all of the gib screws tight on the compound, not just one.
Oh, on the tailstock die holder, you better off single pointing the thread to near size, then chase the thread to cleanup and size the thread. You definitely want to do this for a drawbar IMO.
Stan, just saw this posted this morning containing a current link (last post) to installation of taper attachment. I thought it might be of interest to you.
Stan, just saw this posted this morning containing a current link (last post) to installation of taper attachment. I thought it might be of interest to you.
Thanks! That's a great instruction!
Thanks for all the wiring comments. I've got some 1/2 FMC and a bunch of different colors of 16 awg wire, and I think I can make it work. I've just been procrastinating on the wiring this week.

I have been cleaning the apron parts:
View attachment 437388
I uncovered a minor flaw in the thread dial shaft...(there's a groove for the set screw...use it!) I may just remake this part later:
View attachment 437389
And there was a broken screw:
View attachment 437390
A center punch and a left-handed drill bit made for easy removal:
View attachment 437391
Then a little more cleaning...and the first coat of paint:
View attachment 437392
View attachment 437393
So the little screw that holds the star piece on - is it left handed or right handed threads? I can not get mine loose. And I suspect I need it off in order to put the clutch pieces in - -