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substitute for Formby tung oil

bhigdog

Stainless
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Location
Eastern PA
Formby no longer sells their tung oil finish. I think it actually was a wiping polyurethane. I tried a few other "tung oil" finishes and don't like any of them. Has anyone discovered a good replacement for formby?
It's still available on Ebay as old stock but at eye watering prices..Bob
 
Formby no longer sells their tung oil finish. I think it actually was a wiping polyurethane. I tried a few other "tung oil" finishes and don't like any of them. Has anyone discovered a good replacement for formby?
It's still available on Ebay as old stock but at eye watering prices..Bob
Maybe its just a local thing, but up here in the NW, we used Formby's and Daly's. Daly is still making a tung oil you can get it online. dunno if its similar to formbys, been 40 years since I had my hands on any formbys. BenMatte Danish Tung Oil : DALY'S : Paint and Decorating / Wood Finishes
 
Just talked to a Minwax tech rep. Yes, Formby is no more and minwax has a tung oil formulation but it is not the same as Formby's. Yeah well. I guess I'll have to try a can...Thanks all......Bob
 
Not quite the same, but I like Watco Danish Oil. I never considered it for years, thinking it was just oil. It is combo of penetrating oil and varnish (not poly-urethane). Super easy to apply (wipe on, wait 15 minutes, wipe off, wait overnight, apply more coats if desired). I have an old farmhouse with cabinets made in the 1940's. They still looked good but had some spots from sun hitting them. One coat fixed them right up(it appeared that is what was originally used, I found a can in the old wood shop)
 
Formby's is called Tung Oil but it is just a name. Not as much actual Tung Oil in there but it was still good for me.

I once bought a quart of real Tung Oil and mixed it in with ingredients according to Sam Maloof's finish.

If you want something now then Home D. probably has a gallon of the latest concoction formula swill that is allowed for the general public.
It's better to pour small amounts into small containers rather than have a air pocket sitting over the stuff in a can.
 
I'm just finishing up a Gerstner type tool box i made using some curly cherry I forgot I even had. I used Min Wax gloss wiping polyurethane for the finish. I've got to say I'm very pleased with it. It took 4 coats to get the finish I wanted but wipes on streak free and is fairly fast drying............Bob
 
Bob, sometime you're working on a smaller project, give Rubio Monocoat a try. A little pricey but a small amount goes a long way and very easy to apply. Can also be used with a hardener to accelerate curing. We use it exclusively in the industry for antique wood countertops, bench seats, bar stools, etc
 
Not quite the same, but I like Watco Danish Oil. I never considered it for years, thinking it was just oil. It is combo of penetrating oil and varnish (not poly-urethane). Super easy to apply (wipe on, wait 15 minutes, wipe off, wait overnight, apply more coats if desired). I have an old farmhouse with cabinets made in the 1940's. They still looked good but had some spots from sun hitting them. One coat fixed them right up(it appeared that is what was originally used, I found a can in the old wood shop)
I've not only used Danish Oil straight but I've also successfully mixed it with Zar Satin Polyurethane for a wipe-on finish with more build. More pricy but excellent right out of the jar is Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Finish. Years ago I refinished the wooden arms on some folding lawn chairs with it and they held up very well even when left out in the weather.
 
I like to mix Boiled linseed oil, poly and coleman fuel. about 30% each and a teaspoon of Japan drier per quart. Skip the dryer and shelf life is good. With the dryer shelf life is about one month.
Camp fuel at Walmart is $8.00/Gallon. it is Naptha at half the price. little smell , quicker drying, less cost then paint thiner.
Bill D
 
I've tried and am satisfied with Min-Wax wiping poly. NOT the water based. I think it's inferior to Formby's, takes longer to dry and takes more coats to get an acceptable (to me) finish. Evidently Min-Wax owned Formby and decided to kill the brand, stifle competition, and promote an inferior product. Go figure. Thanks all............Bob
 
The problem with most oil based poly's (and boiled linseed oil) is that they will yellow over time. Water based finishes do not have this problem.

I usually source pure tung oil and thin it with d-limonene. If I want to build up a film as part of it I'll mix in some spar varnish ala the Sam Maloof finish (but with tung oil instead of BLO). Recently I've been topcoating with Gleam marine varnish (when I don't want to take the time to spray post catalyzed conversion varnish).
 
Hah! I forgot all about Waterlox. I have a can somewhere but it's been at least 20yrs and likely dried in the can. I remember I used to like it.......Thanks...........Bob
 








 
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