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Things to look for when purchasing

cro-magnum

Plastic
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Location
Phoenix
Hello everyone

I am considering purchasing this machine to be used restoring antique farm equipment. It just wouldn't be right to have some new (name I cant pronounce) machine in the shop.

I am familiar with lathes but have never operated a South Bend or any machine if this vintage. I would appreciate any advice on what problems the machine may have. Where/how to check oil levels? How much backlash is to be expected?

I will be looking at the machine at noon today MST. I hope some of you can help before then.

Thank you
Travis

South Bend 16x84 Lathe For Sale
 

iwananew10K

Diamond
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Location
moscow,ohio
best i can say is to check the power feeds, half nut engagement,look for worn gear teeth, backgears,and look closely at the countershaft for sloppyness-as far as wear on the ways just do the carriage lock test(lightly tighten the lock with the carriage close to the headstock and move carriage toward tailstock to see if it binds- if it makes it most of the way it`s probably not bad) of course see if the spindle rotates smoothly- if you can run it most questions will be answered.check all gearbox settings. Good luck!
 

cro-magnum

Plastic
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Location
Phoenix
I got a chance to look at it yesterday. I am satisfied with everything I checked as far a wear. I was surprised by how loud the back gears are on this machine. I understand they are large strait cut gears without much around them to deaden the sound. In this video you can see for yourself, please tell me what you think.

YouTube - ‪16X84 South Bend lathe‬‏

Thanks
Travis
 

hitandmiss

Titanium
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Location
Rochester, NY USA
The back gears sound like the stop controlling mesh depth is allowing the gears to go too far together. He also was on the highest speed position.

He showed the feed gears not running "super quiet" and shifted forward and reverse and never ran them.

Bill
 

cro-magnum

Plastic
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Location
Phoenix
Hello

Thanks for the info hitandmiss I'll check and see if the gears are riding to close to each other. I ended up purchasing the machine for 2000. I oiled the machine based off of some literature found here. I ran a test cut on a 1.5 316 SS bar. I trued the bar with a .020 cut then made a .010 for a test, with a light feed speed. On a 6" pass the bar was .0015 larger on the tailstock end than it was on the chuck side. For my needs I think this is good. What does your guys measure on a similar test? I have to say for a split second I thought I might have been cutting aluminum not SS, this Machine is a bada..

He did run the carriage forward and reverse in person which sounded and operated smoothly. The back gears are loud for sure, but they are much better in slower speeds. All the teeth are on them and the teeth look good so my fingers are crossed that the depth is incorrect.

I'll be cleaning it up and posting more pictures next week.

Thanks
Travis

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/Cro-Magnum/2011-05-26-15-35-41-261.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/Cro-Magnum/2011-05-26-15-29-23-213.jpg
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy152/Cro-Magnum/2011-05-26-15-26-47-247.jpg
 

dannyrocci

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Location
Vancouver Wa
The other thing to know about back gear is that it is always louder when it is not under a cutting load. My heavy 10 makes a little bit of noise but once it start cutting I can't hear the back gear at all. As far as a test cut goes if it is good enough for your needs then it is good enough as far as I'm concerned but you might be able to get it even better once you level out the bed. Also the ways look like they are in great shape from that one closeup shoot, can't see a ridge at all, so that is good. anyways nice looking lathe and look forward to more pictures

Danny
 

iwananew10K

Diamond
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Location
moscow,ohio
the good news is your test bar was bigger at the tailstock end(if it was unsupported). that much(.0015) could just be deflection. the backgears are easy to adjust. those 16`s are NICE, if i ever decide i need more than my 9`s and 10K a 16" or a 14 1/2" is what i`ll be looking for. have fun! :)
 

packrat2

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Location
Utah
your new lathe.....

you will be glad you got that one, looks like a nice one, price will only go up.:)
 

Henro

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Hi,

Swells on ebay sells a very good manual for the SB 10~16" lathes. Also sells the capillary oiler wicks.

You should consider replacing the oiler wicks and checking spindle clearance.

There are several threads in the stickies at the the top of this forum you may find helpful and interesting. My 16" SB sn 15xxxx I believe was made in 1946 or so...( X=I forget tbose numbers at the moment....)

Enjoy!
 

cro-magnum

Plastic
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Location
Phoenix
If they do discontinue production of felts, I'll be firing up the water jet. I've never cut it before but I can't imagine any problems beside needing a backer.

Travis
 

Henro

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Steve Brooks, not Steve Wells. The book is pretty good. Get it, and the felts. They might not be around forever :(

allan

Yes...i did get that wrong...trusted the memory again!

Stevewb is the ebay name. I bought books for both my 10k & 16" and I am a satisfied customer.

The capillary oilers are two grades of felt held within a spring...not just simply a cut piece of felt. Well worth the cost in my case. Your milage may vary...


Have fun!
 








 
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