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Time to make a bunch of mill soft jaws; What features do the rest of you add to them?

dandrummerman21

Stainless
Joined
Feb 5, 2008
Location
MI, USA
I am getting low on my stash of soft jaws for 6" mill vises, and I was wondering what (if any) features that those of you who make their own jaws add to them when making them?

They are standard 6" long kurt style soft jaws.

I have 1.75" x 1" and 2" x 1.5" blanks cut already. I will be setting them up on a horizontal machining center so I can do end work.


What I usually do is have the regular bolt pattern in front, with 5/16" tapped holes on both of the sides for stops.



Anyway, I am just posting this thread in case there's some features or ideas that I haven't really thought to do for blank soft jaws. Generally speaking, most of my soft jaws either end up with a carved out shape for 2nd ops, or they turn into milled step jaws with relief for cutting the OAL of whatever part I'm running. Many custom jaws get put away on a shelf for the next time we run that part.
 
I just order a bar or two of 1 x 2-1/4 1018, saw them 6" long and only mill the holes and c/bores.
I don't mess with the ends, no need to. If I need a stop I will use a table stop or one that attaches to the back of the Kurt vise.
Quick and easy.
 
I made a whole set with steps milled various depths so I don't need parallels. These are 4" jaws.
6-32 tapped in the faces for stops. Hole pattern is offset from one jaw to the other so I can pick the best one for fixed jaw.


IMG_0883.JPG
 
All my soft jaws are 1"x2"............I slot the holes so I can flip 'em. I also put holes in for dowels so I can pin them to the vises. Helps left/right alignment. I use the same jaws over and over again and I can just drop them in and go. They repeat within a thou or so........

jaws.jpgpin.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming.

I didn't mention, but my soft jaw material is 1018, if it matters.

I think I'll slot my holes this time so I can flip. I've considered it before but had never done that. For some reason that I can't recall.



I have lots of sets of vertical and horizontal v jaws of different sizes. I also have made a few sizes of "v jaws" that you'd use if you were trying to drill a hole in the side of a thin hockey puck. V jaw on one side, flat jaw on the other, squeezing on the thickness of the puck. I also have lots of sets of snap jaw step jaws. I do like the idea of holes in the face of step jaws though for putting stops at random locations. I'll have to do that to some of my soft step jaws.

As for dowel holes in the face, I really like this idea but not sure if I will implement. I have a huge hodgepodge of vises. Several old kurt singles, even more old cast iron chick double vises, and lots and lots of older chick doubles with aluminum carriers. The aluminum carriers don't have enough thickness in that area to mill a slot in them for the dowel. And that's a lot of vises to modify to accept pins.
 
Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming.
I didn't mention, but my soft jaw material is 1018, if it matters.
The aluminum carriers don't have enough thickness in that area to mill a slot in them for the dowel. And that's a lot of vises to modify to accept pins.
Believe the hint of a locating pin is outer edge of jaw, on jaws made slightly longer than conventional. When I need soft jaws, 1018 is often a choice, but not sure why everyone's habit is to stick with 6" [or whatever size vise] length. Drilling/ tapping for stops is handy, if fast. A table stop can be clumsy. It's probably better to create options, especially if CNC equipped.
Far beyond vise body, if jaw clamping gets iffy; drill moving jaw, tap stationary for a SHCS and snug-tighten on a "C" washer.
 
I like to emulate the Snap Jaw way of holding them to the vises so there is only a 5/16" hole in the face to reduce chip trapping. Same goes for extra holes in my soft jaws, too many chip traps. I make mine 2" tall and don't toss till they are 1.5" and shot so flipping is not an option.

If my jaws extend far beyond the width of the vise I will put my blocks on the outside ends so the jaws flex when I clamp them to cut the reference surfaces. This beats trying to clamp the ends to get them to hold the part extremities.
 
I've seen people mill a step in the bottom about 1/16"-1/8" deep and use that for locating against the side of the vise for repeatability. Never tried that myself but it seems logical.
 








 
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