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Tips or Tricks to get a gear off a shaft

Bill D

Diamond
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Location
Modesto, CA USA
A blow torch can spit a flame out 3-6" diameter out 10 feet or so when first lighting up. Not a controlled flame. Just like lighting a gas torch you throttle it back until it sits just off the nozzle so it does not blow out.
Bill D
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Location
Manchester, England
A blow torch can spit a flame out 3-6" diameter out 10 feet or so when first lighting up. Not a controlled flame. Just like lighting a gas torch you throttle it back until it sits just off the nozzle so it does not blow out.
Bill D

I think the guys used oxy-propane. When they lit the gas there was a huge very smoky flame, as you say about 10ft long. Introducing the oxygen throttled the flame back plenty but it was still very large. The torches were about 5 ft long and they needed to be !

Regards Tyrone.
 

richard newman

Titanium
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
rochester, ny
Oxy/propane makes sense for that use. Not as hot, but I think more total heat overall. And less expensive.

Did those old blowtorches use gasoline for fuel?

Another thought - if heating only the hub of the gear makes the bore want to shrink, and the shaft expand, could that induce a compression set in the steel, reducing the interference fit when it cools down? Maybe a few cycles of that would make it easier to press off?
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
Oxy/propane makes sense for that use. Not as hot, but I think more total heat overall. And less expensive.

Did those old blowtorches use gasoline for fuel?

Another thought - if heating only the hub of the gear makes the bore want to shrink, and the shaft expand, could that induce a compression set in the steel, reducing the interference fit when it cools down? Maybe a few cycles of that would make it easier to press off?

Maybe it could, (depends how large the gear is on the OD compared to the bore, etc.) but it might also damage the shaft. Not a good option unless both parts are scrap - and in that case, just use an O/A torch and cut them apart.

Speaking of banks of gas cylinders, one of our automated cutting torches at the shop I apprenticed in had dual tank banks/manifolds. One for O2 and one for acetylene. Must have been about 20 big old tanks in each one, they were huge. They cut some serious plate for fabs though. Up to at least a foot thick.
 
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richard newman

Titanium
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Location
rochester, ny
That's what I thought. Had a 40's or 50's Coleman wallpaper steamer, gas fueled. Had to pump it up by hand, thing scared me to death, had visions of explosions. Worked just fine til I found a modern propane version.
 

idacal

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Location
new plymouth id
Usually if your running big rosebuds you want propane on a 100 lbs can. acetylene the size of bottles so your not over pulling it are not real common. i have been looking at finding one of those old radiator stripping torches that use propane and compressed air not as efficient but way cheaper heat
 

52 Ford

Stainless
Joined
May 20, 2021
Usually if your running big rosebuds you want propane on a 100 lbs can. acetylene the size of bottles so your not over pulling it are not real common. i have been looking at finding one of those old radiator stripping torches that use propane and compressed air not as efficient but way cheaper heat

The huge oxy-acetylene cutting torches and rose buds use a couple tanks hooked together through a manifold to get the flow they need. Scrap yards use setups like that. The places that go through a TON of oxygen also tend to buy liquid O2 instead of O2 gas. Denser storage, but they have to vent the O2 to atmosphere as it boils off, so there IS a fair bit wasted. That's why welding shops and whatnot don't use liquid O2.

Heck, even the bigger propane forges has tanks hooked up in parallel so you do freeze to tanks too bad. People wrap the tanks electric bottle heaters. Same type of heaters they use on NOS bottles.
 

52 Ford

Stainless
Joined
May 20, 2021
Anyway,all this for a car gearbox.......and when you ask for the gear,Ford will say....layshaft is only serviced as an assembly!....gears not sold separately.

LOL prolly not going to be asking Ford for parts. Fancy go-fast stuff.
 

66promod

Plastic
Joined
Mar 11, 2022
Anyway,all this for a car gearbox.......and when you ask for the gear,Ford will say....layshaft is only serviced as an assembly!....gears not sold separately.

Believe it or not, they do sell each part individually - the shafts, each gear, the synchronizers, even the c clips and gaskets.
 

66promod

Plastic
Joined
Mar 11, 2022
LOL prolly not going to be asking Ford for parts. Fancy go-fast stuff.

Yessir! I get everything from a custom gear manufacturer, made to hold more power.

If I can figure out how to add pictures or a video, I’ll post those up here in a bit.
 

66promod

Plastic
Joined
Mar 11, 2022
The shaft on the right is the one I’m working with. The top two gears, top is 5th, next one down is 6th. The two gears below those are the two I’m replacing due to being destroyed (3rd and 4th). Well, now I’ve ordered a new 5th due to breaking teeth at the 12 ton mark in a 100 ton press.

9-B2-E7-F26-1-DDD-482-A-849-B-DA7-EF0-B0-C4-B2.jpg


The silver car is the project car this transmission goes in - 1058 hp / 850 tq at the wheels.

C4-B47700-F656-435-B-90-E4-50-C98-D19441-A.jpg


The red one is the car my user name is all about - 1966 Mustang, square tube chassis car.

52740-A21-C572-4626-B39-B-8-C4-C521-E218-A.jpg
 
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52 Ford

Stainless
Joined
May 20, 2021
The shaft on the right is the one I’m working with. The top two gears, top is 5th, next one down is 6th. The two gears below those are the two I’m replacing due to being destroyed (3rd and 4th). Well, now I’ve ordered a new 5th due to breaking teeth at the 12 ton mark in a 100 ton press.

9-B2-E7-F26-1-DDD-482-A-849-B-DA7-EF0-B0-C4-B2.jpg


The silver car is the project car this transmission goes in - 1058 hp / 850 tq at the wheels.

C4-B47700-F656-435-B-90-E4-50-C98-D19441-A.jpg


The red one is the car my user name is all about - 1966 Mustang, square tube chassis car.

52740-A21-C572-4626-B39-B-8-C4-C521-E218-A.jpg

Hell yeah!

I've got an '88 GT.

You using a Coyote in the silver car? It's crazy how much power those engines can handle with stock internals. Roush has a supercharger kit for the new 5.0 F150s that takes them up to a little over 700HP.
 

66promod

Plastic
Joined
Mar 11, 2022
Nice, those were the best years. The original modern Mustang.

Coyote in the silver car but built bottom end, reworked and ported heads, bigger fuel system, etc…. It is crazy that bone stock they’re happy as can be with 800 hp. The weak link is really just the pistons.

The 66 currently has a mild 351w and a built c4. I’ve got all the parts in finally to start the motor swap in it. A race prepped, 1500 hp capable coyote with a mix of BossR and cobra jet internals, VMP supercharger, 1700cc injectors - calculations put the 2330 lb car and 1200 ish hp at around a mid 4 second 1/8 mile and 7’s in the 1/4.
 

52 Ford

Stainless
Joined
May 20, 2021
Nice, those were the best years. The original modern Mustang.

Coyote in the silver car but built bottom end, reworked and ported heads, bigger fuel system, etc…. It is crazy that bone stock they’re happy as can be with 800 hp. The weak link is really just the pistons.

The 66 currently has a mild 351w and a built c4. I’ve got all the parts in finally to start the motor swap in it. A race prepped, 1500 hp capable coyote with a mix of BossR and cobra jet internals, VMP supercharger, 1700cc injectors - calculations put the 2330 lb car and 1200 ish hp at around a mid 4 second 1/8 mile and 7’s in the 1/4.

That 66 is going to SCREAM.

The 88 is pretty cool. Its a T-Top car, which is unusual cause they didn't make T-top bodies in 88. Mostly stock, except for a tune, exhaust, injectors, that sort of stuff. It's a 2 owner car, too. An army officer special ordered it in Germany, drove it over there, came back with it, then eventually sold it to us. I need to strip it and repaint it. Clear coat is SHOT.

I'm thinking about doing a mild build on my 52 F1. It's all stock right now (106HP 239 flathead). I figure the easiest thing is just to swap the body onto something else. Almost put it on an AWD Explorer chassis with a 302 a few years ago. That was just because I had one with a bad body on it (black ice then telephone pole - I wasn't driving.).
 








 
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