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Trailers, hookup, titles, etc

JST

Diamond
Joined
Jun 16, 2001
Location
St Louis
I just aquired a small Jaeger engine, hit and miss type.
Attached to it and sold with it is a crummy trailer. Harbor freight crummy..... scary crummy. But it works.

I know little or nothing about trailers except how to get them on the hitch ball and hook on the safety chains. That part I can do.

Now, I don't particularly want this trailer, although it was handy to move the engine, and could be again. However, it was part of the deal.

The owner couldn't find the title, although the tag is current. So right away there is a problem.

What is the deal with titling trailers if there is a title somewhere, because the thing has a tag, but it isn't available? Can title be transferred on a bill of sale typically? Or does one usually need the title as with a vehicle?

I'd almost just as soon lose the little POS, but I own it, or at least I should. And the previous owner probably wants it off his property taxes.

The other issue is more minor... The trailer lights plug apparently was pirated when I had a cap put on the truck.... It was evidently moved and used to run the brake light and so forth on the cap. So at present I can't use trailer lights.

I snuck down the back streets this time, but don't want to do that again.

I assume that somewhere under the back of the truck there should be wires that would work the trailer brake lights, running lights and turn signals.

If I had to put a hitch on it, I would get the wiring done also. But, the truck already has a reinforced "bumper" hitch good for 3500 lb trailers max (it's an S-10, that weight sounds fine to me), and this is the first time I have had to do a trailer. The existing hitch point is a chunk of heavy sheet metal about 5/8" thick, so it isn't just a piece of chrome.

So I figure I may as well wire it myself.... Is there a standard GM color code for the wires, or will I have to "ring out" the wires to get it done?
 
Well, if there WAS a place to plug it in, I'd be way better off, wouldn't I?

That's the problem, I'm going to have to find and tap off the wires to get the trailer connections. The other plug is no longer wired up as it came from teh factory... It only has brake lights and a solid all-the-time 12V for the inside light. No turn signals, etc.

In fact, it probably isn't even the original plug. So a thru adapter isn't an option.
 
In my state, only trailers over a certain weight (can't remember the number) are titled, small trailers are not, you cann transfer registration with a bill of sale. State website probably has the rules for your state.

Trailer wiring -- I get it done at U-Haul, cheap, good and quick. No trailer brtakes, so I'd guess they'd do the plug p[igtail for you at under $100, maybe even $50 since you already have the bumper hitch.
 
I think Mel was suggesting something like this:
trailer wiring harness

These are designed for a particular vehicle, and get inserted between two existing connectors in the wiring harness. They make these for tons of applications, so if your S10 is a different year, poke around and you can likely find one. As to the title, it'll vary by state. If you have a plate on it, just drive and don't get pulled over. :D
 
Ah, that makes sense. I find an existing connector and plug that in series....

presumably they know where things are and have decent directions. It would be an easy job, if....

For some reason, I usually have the odd item "oh, yeah, those are different......"..

In this case it is a commercial truck, not a consumer one. Good AC, good seats, rubber mats, no radio, no $3500 pinstrips, no visors and no "LS package" gew-gaws. So naturally, it will probably be different in the wiring too... but, I could be wrong.

vehicle wiring comes under the same heading with plumbing.... stuff you gotta do but don't have to like... and I am an EE.... ought to like it, right?
 
You can download the instalation instructions from the aforementioned site and see if your truck has a connector in the same place. I would expect the taillight wiring to be the same for the commercial truck, but I wouldn't bet the mill on it
BTW, these can usually be picked up locally, that way you could easily return it if it didn't work.
 
Jtiers the connector on your truck should be near the back of frame on the drivers side.It will be easy to see.You don't need instructions,open the connector you find there and plug in the T adaptor.It will only fit one way,hard to mess up.It costs about $25 dollars Canadian so for you it should be oh 30 cents...lol...good luck.
 
Yeah it SHOULD be back there..... That is naturally the one the bozos cut off and re-routed the wires from....

I'll look up the other ideas. Thanks.

Headed out of town in a couple days, so I can't do anything much with it yet.
 
It took me about 30 minutes, including putting everything away, to locate the required wires, and solder the connector onto my truck. It's not difficult, if you have a suitable test light with a pointy probe. You might need to find someone to step on the brake pedal for you, though.
 
The "Home Built" deal might work in Ohio, but in Louisiana it won't. I built one myself. In order to get it licensed, I had to go to the State Police post and have it inspected, and they demanded INVOICES for the steel stock I used! I knew they would ask, so I had them.

If the police in MO are as particular, they won't be fooled. I'm not sure how mad they would be when they saw you were pulling a fast one.

I think the easiest way to deal with this (and stay legal as well) would be to have the seller order a duplicate title (ten bucks, maybe?) then sign the title over to you as it should be done. That way everything's legal, and you can then transfer the title to the next owner when you sell it. Here in KY the title can be obtained at the county clerk's office when the transfer is made, but the seller must be present.
 
if the tag is current then all the guy has to do is send in for a lost title then when it comes sign it over to you.

as far as the wireing you find where the tail lights plug into the wires coming back from the front. unplg there and put in the the adpter it is about 4" long with another out let that the trailer wires plug into. it is trouble free and easy to use i have had one on my truck for 5 years now. no cutting sodiering.
 
I have low regard for cheapo trailer wiring, using Scotch-locks.

These will work for *awhile*, how long nobody really knows.

Best bet, in lieu of a factory Weatherpack or Metripack that you just plug into, I'd advise heat-shrink butt-splices.

I'd go with the "flat 4" for a small trailer, with a 7-way "RV" for anything involving electric brakes.
 
Matt said: "These will work for *awhile*, how long nobody really knows"

Oh, I know. Until dark. Dark and raining just speeds things up a tad!
 
And then get a little rust belt salt spray on those splices and the the rest or the harness goes bad.
 








 
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