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Unusual rotary table
- Thread starter Torkrench
- Start date
- Replies 8
- Views 940
Billtodd
Titanium
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2009
Very likely to be direct indexing. Try rotating table while operating the lever , it'll probably click into place 12 or more times
jbacc
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- May 5, 2009
- Location
- New Jersey
Is the table locked? That lever does in fact release the table and allow direct indexing. You also have to release the worm gear for that to happen which frees the table up so you can turn the entire chuck by hand. There is most likely a masking plate at the bottom of the unit which can be changed for varying division direct indexing.
I'm not sure how exactly that would work... I'll take a picture of the bottom of the unit tomorrow but I don't think there is anywhere a plate could be installed on the bottom. Also I'm not sure how you would disengage the worm gear. The small t handle above the main knob doesn't appear to do anything. The large handle is the brake to prevent the unit from turning.
Also when you move the lever that is circled in the picture, the adjusting bold with the jam nut under it moves slightly. Almost like it's an adjustable stop of some kind.
jbacc
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- May 5, 2009
- Location
- New Jersey
Under the base, there should be a plate held in by 2 screws. You remove that plate and it exposes the masking plate if one is installed. Different masking plates provide various direct indexing. As far as releasing the worm gear, there should be a knurled ring near the crank and dial, turning that (I forgot which direction) should release the worm. The crank will no longer turn the table but the chuck can then be turned by hand after moving the release lever. I hope that makes sense... Also, be sure you don't have the table locked which is what the lever with the black knob is.
CarbideBob
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Location
- Flushing/Flint, Michigan
The worm is mounted in a eccentric. You have to rotate it all clear for the index to work.
The T handle up top clamps and unclamps the the eccentric shaft housing. This allows you to rotate the handle assembly away from the gear inside.
This is also how you adjust backlash when using the handle.
Loosen the T-handle. Grab the inner ring with the vernier markings and twist the whole thing CW. This releases the worm.
Do a google search for "Vertex indexer manual". Also know as a super spacer.
The T handle up top clamps and unclamps the the eccentric shaft housing. This allows you to rotate the handle assembly away from the gear inside.
This is also how you adjust backlash when using the handle.
Loosen the T-handle. Grab the inner ring with the vernier markings and twist the whole thing CW. This releases the worm.
Do a google search for "Vertex indexer manual". Also know as a super spacer.
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for the info. I flipped the table on the side and sure enough there is a plate, I was expecting something smaller. Took the plate off and there is a plate with 24 divisions on it. The lever is supposed to move the tab out to lock between the teeth but it was stuck. Tapped it a couple of times with a brass hammer and it feed right up. Now it all makes sense. I wonder if I can find different rings for it.
I'll look up the vertex indexer manual.
I'll look up the vertex indexer manual.
guythatbrews
Titanium
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2017
- Location
- MO, USA
These are handy spacers. Might be worthwhile to take it apart and clean all the old grease out. It's not uncommon they are stiff and hard to turn.
The two modes of operation, direct indexing with the shot pin and positioning with the handwheel, are mutually exclusive.
To direct index, release the handwheel worm shaft eccentric and rotate it out of mesh. The handwheel will now spin freely. Since you've had the back off it will be apparent the lever moves the shot pin in and out of mesh. Then grab the chuck and move by hand to next position. If using a masking plate hold the lever open until you are close, then release. The masking plate is soft and if the shot pin rides on it it sometimes cuts chips, fouls the detent, and causes index error.
To position with the dial, move the lever to the index position and push down. There is a detent that will hold the lever in the open position. The detent is the little allen screw and nut on the base below the lever. You don't mess with the allen screw unless it needs adjusting. Rotate the knurled ring CCW (I think) into mesh while wiggling the handwheel. There should be an adjustable positive stop to limit the rotation and mantain the backlash at a known value. I think the stop is a little allen screw. Then lock the eccentric in position.
This is only a spacer and is very good for that. It's not really for circular milling but can do very light stuff in a pinch. Clamp the table before any machining, always a good idea. The table clamp is a circular wedge and forces the rotating top part firmly against the base.
Maybe you are lucky enough to have a full set of masking plates. I'm not. Like so much machine shop stuff they get scattered to the wind when a shop liquidates. You can make your own or I think you can buy new. Search super spacer for your chuck size. I think all the knock-off spacers are identical to the Yuasa. I believe blank masking plates are also available to customize if you need a bastard spacing combination.
The two modes of operation, direct indexing with the shot pin and positioning with the handwheel, are mutually exclusive.
To direct index, release the handwheel worm shaft eccentric and rotate it out of mesh. The handwheel will now spin freely. Since you've had the back off it will be apparent the lever moves the shot pin in and out of mesh. Then grab the chuck and move by hand to next position. If using a masking plate hold the lever open until you are close, then release. The masking plate is soft and if the shot pin rides on it it sometimes cuts chips, fouls the detent, and causes index error.
To position with the dial, move the lever to the index position and push down. There is a detent that will hold the lever in the open position. The detent is the little allen screw and nut on the base below the lever. You don't mess with the allen screw unless it needs adjusting. Rotate the knurled ring CCW (I think) into mesh while wiggling the handwheel. There should be an adjustable positive stop to limit the rotation and mantain the backlash at a known value. I think the stop is a little allen screw. Then lock the eccentric in position.
This is only a spacer and is very good for that. It's not really for circular milling but can do very light stuff in a pinch. Clamp the table before any machining, always a good idea. The table clamp is a circular wedge and forces the rotating top part firmly against the base.
Maybe you are lucky enough to have a full set of masking plates. I'm not. Like so much machine shop stuff they get scattered to the wind when a shop liquidates. You can make your own or I think you can buy new. Search super spacer for your chuck size. I think all the knock-off spacers are identical to the Yuasa. I believe blank masking plates are also available to customize if you need a bastard spacing combination.
