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Used Telesis Eclipse Laser, Old YAGs Worth Buying?

Not sure how I would tell if it's flashing or glowing without pulling it apart. What you say sounds possible since I was expecting it to draw more current. The power supply shows about 10 A when in the "on" state on the controller. The voltage is like 150V which sounds low. (this is the display on the laser power supply, not the mains input voltage) I was also expecting the light to be whiter. I mean the plastic isn't exactly white, but was kind of expecting it to be more like an arc and not like a tungsten bulb.

This could also be a part of why it seems to complain about a bad bulb the first time you start the laser up but then works on the second try..

The main laser power supply was sent out in 2018 and confirmed to work fine (paperwork was included). So I don't think it's the design of it. More likely not being sent the proper signals. I have a frequency adjustment on the front of the controller that goes from 1khz to 100khz (I think) but the setting hasn't made any difference.

I don't think I'm knowledgeable enough to try and force an output. I will continue trying to get it to operate as designed before I start poking around internally. Though I'll admit, I'm running out of things to try.

Thanks!
 
How much is your time worth to resurrect this thing that will die again just to engrave parts?
More than the guy/gal at the McDonald's drive-up window?
Am all in favor of this as a learning experience.
This is me just having fun. If I actually had a plan for it, like for a business, I would have bought a Chinese desktop fiber. But now I just see it as a challenge and learning experience all in one. My two favorite things. Assuming I survive. :D
 
Not sure how I would tell if it's flashing or glowing without pulling it apart. What you say sounds possible since I was expecting it to draw more current. The power supply shows about 10 A when in the "on" state on the controller. The voltage is like 150V which sounds low. (this is the display on the laser power supply, not the mains input voltage) I was also expecting the light to be whiter. I mean the plastic isn't exactly white, but was kind of expecting it to be more like an arc and not like a tungsten bulb.

This could also be a part of why it seems to complain about a bad bulb the first time you start the laser up but then works on the second try..

The main laser power supply was sent out in 2018 and confirmed to work fine (paperwork was included). So I don't think it's the design of it. More likely not being sent the proper signals. I have a frequency adjustment on the front of the controller that goes from 1khz to 100khz (I think) but the setting hasn't made any difference.

I don't think I'm knowledgeable enough to try and force an output. I will continue trying to get it to operate as designed before I start poking around internally. Though I'll admit, I'm running out of things to try.

Thanks!
I would expect it to flash a lot on camera as the duration of the flash usually occupies much less than one full frame of your camera, and will show up as a pattern of horizontal bars. You should also hear a tick or buzz as it fires.

Flash lamps are the most common part to replace, as they are consumable. It looks like there is a cover over the flash lamp and crystal assembly that can be removed.

I'm sure you are aware but those terminals may be live long after the machine has been turned off.
 
I would expect it to flash a lot on camera as the duration of the flash usually occupies much less than one full frame of your camera, and will show up as a pattern of horizontal bars. You should also hear a tick or buzz as it fires.

Flash lamps are the most common part to replace, as they are consumable. It looks like there is a cover over the flash lamp and crystal assembly that can be removed.

I'm sure you are aware but those terminals may be live long after the machine has been turned off.

The one thing that IS in the manual is how to change the bulb. I did previously take the outer cover off and saw the lamp/crystal assembly, but just out of curiosity to see what was under the cover. I didn't go father than that as I didn't want to break the seal on the water block since it's not leaking and I learned if it ain't broke, don't break it.

Good note idea on using video rolling shutter to detect light modulation. Unfortunately it's too loud to hear anything. I can't even hear the fans on the laser over the fan on the phase converter. And I wear earplugs.

I wired up my external E-stop and shutter switch but it was too late to fire it up. This involved dissembling the laser's back panel a bit and replacing one of the connectors. In the process I found the ground for what I can only assume is some sort of feedback line from the q-switch (it was the smaller of the two coax cables going to the Q switch) was broken .. I'm unsure if I broke it moving wires around or it was broken already. I fixed it, made sure the center conducter was food as well, and cleaned up some other wires. These things were not thought out well when they designed them

I mean this ridiculous mess has to plug into the back of the cabinet. yes all of them. It's so unwieldy and they drag on the ground along with the 6 other cables that come from the umbilical. The other end of the cable below goes to 2 other D-Subs that plug into an I/O card that was stupid expensive and only fits in ancient computers. lol.

1686976588423.png

That box is marked "FPK Delay" which I googled and found to be a "first pulse killer". I already forgot why it said it is needed though.
 
Well no luck today. Going to have to get dirty. Going to see if there is any documentation Telesis can send me. Though when I called, the OG support guy there never even heard of this model. lol.

Feel like either something in the software maybe isn't set up right. I would really just like to know what controls that second shutter as then I think I'd have a clue where to look next. Wondering if that only opens once the lase is triggered and since it's not getting to that state, it's not opening. And if so, why isn't it triggering. I will try and pick their brains monday.
 
I think I found another possible issue. So I purchased a water tester and turns out the water that is in the DI loop has a very low resistance. I found this odd since I had flush the loop and, put DI water in and there is a DI cartridge in the loop. I tested the DI water I had left over and it read 0 uS/CM. The water in the cart was 26 uS/CM. The distilled water I was using for the external loop was 90 something uS/CM. Fresh distilled and the DI were reading zero uS/CM... which seems sus. This meter claims it goes down to zero uS/CM. As a test i took the zero reading distilled water and literally added a grain of salt to a cup of water and saw it come up from zero so it does seem to work.

I need to find 1: a better source for DI water than Amazon, though with those readings for the distilled, I may just go that route, at least for a flush, 2: a replacement DI cartridge but have not been able to find a similar housing. It's the same design as most of the filter housings out there, just really short. Which also means I can't even find a replacement housing that would fit.

20230619_065208.jpg
 
Tried to do a reverse image search on the cartridge but all I came up with was vintage thermoses. lol
20230619_072644.jpg

Definitely seems old and something is clunking around inside.


Update:

well ok then. That explains a lot..
20230619_073613.jpg
 
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