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WADE 10B LATHE ( ANY OLD TIMERS INTERESTED IN GETTING TOGETHER TO RESTORE )

miketig

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 30, 2022
HEY ALL YOU OLDTIMERS !
After reading and reviewing all the pics of older posts that some of you guys have posted in discussion of the illusive Wade 10-b Lathes, I am confident that the one of the lathes I have in my garage here in Massachusetts is one of the three Wade 10-B lathes currently thought to exist. In fact I believe I have the one that a pic is posted of in an older post on this site, said to be for sale on ebay back in 2010, The scratch on the right bottom of the cabinet is the exact scratch on the right bottom of my cabinet. I am interested in seeing if there are a few of you old-timers out there that would be interested in getting together at some meet ups at my place and restoring this thing. I am located in Massachusetts, if anyone is interested in doing such a thing lets start by putting together some ideas of how we would go about doing this and what would be done with the lathe after restoration. The pic at bottom left is in my garage, the pic at bottom right was posted on an older post here , said to have been on ebay back in 2010. Some of you that are unable to make it out this way and are interested in participating can take part here through the posts.
ANYONE INTERESTED REPLY
Mike T
 

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Mike-

We've all gotten used to Thermite (well, most of us, anyway) and appreciate his wit and humor. Once you have, you'll occasionally snort your coffee on the keyboard. (yup, we're mostly old enough to still use keyboards.:))

I admire your desire to make this lathe all it can be, but bear in mind the rarity of this beast, the historical value as is, and the complicated nature of this thing. Having had one of these drivetrains apart (from necessity) I never want to do it again. Many parts are no longer available and are easy to mess up. DAMHIKT. (my 2 cents, worth not much....)

So, out of curiosity, is there something functionally wrong with the lathe? Motivation for restoration? I can prob help, as can Andy and a few other folks on the forum. You're not too far from me and I'd enjoy a look.
 
There is actually no need to fix anything on it I believe it is in perfect working order other than paint scratches and condensation rust, although It would be nice to see if a lead screw and threading settings box,(if that is what you call them) can be hunted down and installed on it. As for restoring it, that's more about getting some craftsmen & tradesmen together than it is for the need to restore the thing. Anytime you time you would like to see it your more than welcome too. I am curious to hear from someone who may be more knowledgeable about running these things more so than I do. ( I was a carpenter by trade not a machinist )
 
Good to hear that it's operational!

There are some lubrication points that can be checked - I think the Reeves drive needs occasional grease and the speed changer needs occasional oil. (There's an oil cup on the front of the drivetrain for that, which you've probably already noticed.) The manual will know.)

It's certainly possible to put a lead screw with threading capability on it, but the list of parts to do so is long. Threading dial, all the gears in the QC gearbox, castings to support the gears, shifter, tailstock end support for the leadscrew, halfnuts. That's just the beginning. It's likely that some of these parts don't exist. All makeable, certainly, your decision whether to do it or not. A LOT of work to do this well.

But it's very usable. Prob about 1% of manual lathe work involves single point threading, so it's a rare situation where this lathe wouldn't be useful. Sounds like you could use it while you decide. The ideal situation!
 
You lack of knowledge as to why a lathe would be made without threading provisions
and your desire to retrofit threading parts on this lathe, and your past experience with
carpentry makes me wonder if you are jumping into a race car and trying to take your
first driving test. There is a lot to know about lathes and machining, and the fact you
are soliciting people to work for you to restore this lathe raises questions in my mind
also. Maybe you should keep this Wade lathe off to the side, and learn on a South
Bend or mid size modern import lathe. I don't want to come across as insulting
but maybe you don't realize that sileage is not the best food for a race horse.
Everyone new to something has their own learning curve. I learned on an old
AtIas lathe, and I am glad I did. I made all my mistakes on an underpowered belt
clutched lathe. Had I started out on a modern gear head lathe, I would have killed
myself, or at least be missing a finger. If I had learned on a Hardinge HLV, I would have
never learned how to actually make a lathe cut to size. Getting size on a Hardinge HLV
is almost automatic, and you learn nothing. Watching youtube videos about lathes only
gets you so far, and usually into trouble, and give you a big head. Maybe you should
take a step back and go at this from a little bit of a different angle. Peace.

--Doozer
 
Look, I realy dont want to reply to ignorance but I just have too on this one.
YOU REALLY DO SOUND LIKE A DOOZER !
I am questioning your seeming inability to be as I am, which is a person who holds the capability within him of being able to build, repair, or create anything and that is said without an ego thats just the way it is!! So pehaps you should try not being such a DOOZER and interpret the posts a little better than you have. Then maybe you will realize that its more about the possibly of getting some retired tradesmen together so they are doing something other than sitting in front of a keyboard rotting in there own head. Don't underestimate the carpenter, because this one will plant the fallen seed, Grow the tree, Grab a fallen branch from it, Mill its wood, Make a pattern out of it, Ram up some sand , Make its mold, Pour its casting, and Machine its part, Just because some of us are unfamiliar with certain terminology in the trades most certainly does not mean they don't posses the ability to do things.
Well now that that is said, perhaps you are one of those talented tradesmen (seemingly rarer these days), or maybe just tradesman who enjoys interacting with others and using there hands to create something instead of a typing on a keyboard. If you are and would like to participate in some friendly chat about how to organize something of this nature feel free to join me and other tradesmen who have similar interest in this sort of thing.

A Possible Friend,
Mike
 
Mike, I think you take me the wrong way.
My dad is a life long carpenter.
No disrespect there.
It is just that every woodworker thinks very different
from any machinist I have known. Same goes for
electricians. Totally different. Not bad, but they approach
things very differently, which can not yield the best results.
That is where my mind was when I was reading your posts.
From reading, I just sounded like you are not familiar with
lathes and metalworking in general. Not saying you can't
accomplish this or that. I was just giving you caution to
jump in to a new area at a speed that give you good results
for your efforts. And maybe it is the New Yorker in my that
is skeptical of anyone who tries to get something from
people. I do like interacting with others but I have been
burned by more people than I have met genuine people.
So I guess I am tainted. I genuinely wish you success with
your metalworking adventure. I wish to help you if I can.
Just don't read into my post as deep as you appear to be.

-Doozer
 
Doozer,
Technology and communication with people these days certainly has changed than in the past, I think with these computers and devices ((( wait I will rephrase that, to "I KNOW" ))) with these computers and devices communicating with each other has taken away that human to human interaction that sometimes confuses things. Being used and burnt is a life story for me so I hear you there, I do believe that there still are a few exceptional tradespeople out there ( even if it is just say nice people ) that may be interested in this sort of thing.
Mike
 
I am a very experienced antiquarian horologist and I occasionally encounter people that expect me to work for free/next to nothing instead of normal rates any experienced conservator would charge. It's some weird fantasy that I just want to help keep that particular antique alive or something. Sorry, somebody has to pay the rent.
The people you are looking for are probably busy leading their lives and rebuilding things themselves.
Also, just a general comment from my long experience- rarity is not necessarily related to desirability or value.
 
Your lathe seems a far cry from many other wades that have an information plate, A quick change, and a half nut with a dial. It doesn't seem like the wade 10 in the manual given it this thread. Perhaps it is not an engine lathe.
 
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More like a manufacturing lathe, Buck, and only one of three 10b's known to exist. As Andy pointed out, this lathe could be thought of as a prototype.
 
I am a very experienced antiquarian horologist and I occasionally encounter people that expect me to work for free/next to nothing instead of normal rates any experienced conservator would charge. It's some weird fantasy that I just want to help keep that particular antique alive or something. Sorry, somebody has to pay the rent.
The people you are looking for are probably busy leading their lives and rebuilding things themselves.
Also, just a general comment from my long experience- rarity is not necessarily related to desirability or value.
Hey guys, look it is very simple if you are not interested,THE POST IS OBVIOSLY NOT FOR YOU! I am not interested hearing about your insecurities and brain rot or how much money you think you are going to get screwed out of. Again its very simple, if you are the type person who might enjoy something of this nature then lets hear from you! If not Go ram some sand. By the way Phycology class will be the next event, judging from lack of human wisdom it might be needed.
 
Hey guys, look it is very simple if you are not interested,THE POST IS OBVIOSLY NOT FOR YOU! I am not interested hearing about your insecurities and brain rot or how much money you think you are going to get screwed out of. Again its very simple, if you are the type person who might enjoy something of this nature then lets hear from you! If not Go ram some sand. By the way Phycology class will be the next event, judging from lack of human wisdom it might be needed.
HUMANITY DIVIDED WE STAND DIVIDE WE FALL !!!!!!
 
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My brain rot or insecurities....
My, my. So much for attempting to impart a little advice.
I am a conservator and the very first principle of conservation is "do no harm", which means only work on things that you have training and experience with. You should sell the Wade before you destroy it altho based on your online behavior I'd say that process is gonna make you really angry because it's not nearly as desirable or valuable as you think.
Over & out.
 
When I was relatively new in my path of restoring machinery,
I had a friend and mentor (who I still heed his advice) who
told me, for cleaning rusty slideways, only use steel wool pads
and oil to clean the rust. At that time, I bought a Hendey Tool
and Gaugemaker's lathe that had been outside behind a
machinery dealer for about 4 years. When I took delivery of it
the chip pan was a solid block of ice. Buffalo winters are cold.
Anyhow, it was rusted all over, like the Titanic. I took it all apart.
As my friend recommended, to clean the ways, I used steel wool
and oil. Now the temptation was great to use maroon colored
ScotchBrite pads to clean the ways, because I could get the rust
off 10 times faster than using steel wool and oil. BUT ScotchBrite
is abrasive. It would make the ways look like shiny bright metal.
But this was removing metal in the process. Not much for sure
but adding wear is not what I wanted to do. I wanted to restore
the lathe, not wear it out more.
Using the steel wool and oil left the ways rust-free, and that it
did leave was the dark rust patina that was stained in the upper
surface of the iron. The ways are perfectly smooth, but have the
color of dull grey. I also alternated using steel wool and oil to using
steel wool and phosphoric acid (wearing gloves). This ate the
rust and passivated the steel. (Making it resistant to forming any
new rust.)
This was a 1951 machine, built just after the WW2. The various tags
that identified lever positions, some were brass and some were steel.
My assumption being that during the war, all the tags were converted
from using brass to using steel, as to divert the brass to artillery shell
production. To that, my placard for the quick change threads was steel.
(and rusted to heck!). I did not remove the rivets for fear of wrecking
the plate. I cleaned the plate in place on the iron cover, using phosphoric
acid and a brass wire brush. I spend countless hours with my brass
brush and the acid cleaning the rust off that steel number plate.
It was a ridiculous amount of time. But It came out great. For final
protection, I sprayed it with clear coat Krylon or something like that.
There is a lot to learn about restoring and not wrecking anything.
The do no harm is often very slow. But if you are committed to this
process, it takes dedication and research.
I wrote this just as an example of the detail and dedicated that is needed
when restoring old machines. It is not a beer drinking party like wrenching
on cars often can be. I know that you can't know what you don't know.
But have open eyes that restoring is a journey, not a beer drinking party
for one and done results.
Peace.
--Doozer
 
When I was relatively new in my path of restoring machinery,
I had a friend and mentor (who I still heed his advice) who
told me, for cleaning rusty slideways, only use steel wool pads
and oil to clean the rust. At that time, I bought a Hendey Tool
and Gaugemaker's lathe that had been outside behind a
machinery dealer for about 4 years. When I took delivery of it
the chip pan was a solid block of ice. Buffalo winters are cold.
Anyhow, it was rusted all over, like the Titanic. I took it all apart.
As my friend recommended, to clean the ways, I used steel wool
and oil. Now the temptation was great to use maroon colored
ScotchBrite pads to clean the ways, because I could get the rust
off 10 times faster than using steel wool and oil. BUT ScotchBrite
is abrasive. It would make the ways look like shiny bright metal.
But this was removing metal in the process. Not much for sure
but adding wear is not what I wanted to do. I wanted to restore
the lathe, not wear it out more.
Using the steel wool and oil left the ways rust-free, and that it
did leave was the dark rust patina that was stained in the upper
surface of the iron. The ways are perfectly smooth, but have the
color of dull grey. I also alternated using steel wool and oil to using
steel wool and phosphoric acid (wearing gloves). This ate the
rust and passivated the steel. (Making it resistant to forming any
new rust.)
This was a 1951 machine, built just after the WW2. The various tags
that identified lever positions, some were brass and some were steel.
My assumption being that during the war, all the tags were converted
from using brass to using steel, as to divert the brass to artillery shell
production. To that, my placard for the quick change threads was steel.
(and rusted to heck!). I did not remove the rivets for fear of wrecking
the plate. I cleaned the plate in place on the iron cover, using phosphoric
acid and a brass wire brush. I spend countless hours with my brass
brush and the acid cleaning the rust off that steel number plate.
It was a ridiculous amount of time. But It came out great. For final
protection, I sprayed it with clear coat Krylon or something like that.
There is a lot to learn about restoring and not wrecking anything.
The do no harm is often very slow. But if you are committed to this
process, it takes dedication and research.
I wrote this just as an example of the detail and dedicated that is needed
when restoring old machines. It is not a beer drinking party like wrenching
on cars often can be. I know that you can't know what you don't know.
But have open eyes that restoring is a journey, not a beer drinking party
for one and done results.
Peace.
--Doozer
Hey Doozer,
What is your thoughts on using vinegar, the vinegar used in these pics has an acidity level of 5% it seemed rather gentle on the parts, all that that was needed after several hours in a bath of the vinegar was a wipe down with a rag. The first eighteen I wire wheeled after the wipe down but then realized it was not necessary if one does not mind the darker spots left by the rust . Once oiled the darker spots will probally blend in a little better, I thought it was pretty impressive but then again after reading these post some of you machinist & others will probably differ in opinion.
 

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Good to hear that it's operational!

There are some lubrication points that can be checked - I think the Reeves drive needs occasional grease and the speed changer needs occasional oil. (There's an oil cup on the front of the drivetrain for that, which you've probably already noticed.) The manual will know.)
The transmission (drivetrain) uses Ford Type F fluid.
 








 
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