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Wade 8a #407

Nice! I'll take some pics and measurements.

Both are OEM plates, should restate- the backplate is machined for the spindle but the face is otherwise blank. The faceplate has a pattern of 1/4-20 holes for fixturing but no t-slots.

I do intend to keep them since I'm likewise trying to accumulate Wade tooling :)
 
ok, turns out the plate does have t-slots;

Wade 7 OEM tooling;


total thickness 1"
- backface boss receiving spindle nose .250" H, 3.2" D
- backface rim .075" H, .150" annular thickness

t-slot dims;
- throat .384" W by .315" H
- base .830" W by .185" H

- across diameter, 2.815 from top-dead-center t-slots

all holes threaded 1/4-20


resized-IMG_20211009_103746.jpg



resized-IMG_20211009_103828.jpg







.5" center hole

3/8-16" tapped holes, adjacent holes on 2.4" centers

- shank depth 1.150"
- plate thick .765"
- shank height .750"
- shank annular thickness .435"



resized-IMG_20211009_104915.jpg



resized-IMG_20211009_104933.jpg
 
I had a look thru my Wade 7 book, found the following quote;


wade7-spindle-tooling.jpeg



Prices are great, I guess we both should give them a call ;) seems like I have the 7" tapped plate and the "Chuck plate".
 
Putting the apron on, again! Pulled this part off one of my spares and find that I have some questions.
Lower left side of the apron.
1) Is this a stock Wade piece?
2) If a stock item, is it mounted correctly?

It seems to constrain the carriage to the point that it makes the collets unusable. (Tool post will not travel to the collet face)

 
I haven't seen that part on an 8A apron before.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Andy, thanks for the feedback! I suspected this was a Machinist created "add on" to limit the carriage travel in an effort to mitigate crashing the chuck into the compound. The fact that it is bronze was what caused me to think it may have been a Wade item. I'm going to take it off or modify it so I can use it and collets.
If machines could talk.. :)
 
Last parts arrived today. 2 bearings for the belt tower. Should be able to install them this weekend.
Getting close to needing a flat belt. I've seen a few posts but am curious, does anyone have a CURRENT place to get flat belts? Obviously l, mine will need to be custom length. Also, leather or composite?
 
Last parts arrived today. 2 bearings for the belt tower. Should be able to install them this weekend.
Getting close to needing a flat belt. I've seen a few posts but am curious, does anyone have a CURRENT place to get flat belts? Obviously l, mine will need to be custom length. Also, leather or composite?

McM composite is cheap. Works well enough for me that I won't pay 10x more for leather.
 
I would LOVE to tell you that the belts from Al Bino are fantastic. The company and service are great, and he is super helpful. But the composite belts I just could not get to work. I renovated a Smart & Brown 1024 and choose his belt...it seemed to have minimal grip and slipped a lot. I have no experience with the leather ones, but can't imagine that they aren't of excellent quality.

In the end I would up with the belt material from McMaster, I have a belt lacer and lots of the clips and used that. People talk about the annoying clicking sound of the joint going over the pulleys and in fact that is just the kind of thing that would drive me nuts so I was worried about that. In use I could almost barely hear it. THe McMAster belt material looks similar but feels a lot "grippier." I will probably use that or leather when I get around to the Wade. I'm still pondering the VFD but part of me wants to keep the Wade as original, but I wonder how the belt shifting mechanism actually works. THe VFD I rigged up on the S&B was fantastic.
 
Alright....

Well here is the link if you change your mind. McMaster-Carr

Oh! McMaster Carr! Duh. Sorry. I didn't realize that's what you meant. Thank you for the link!!


I would LOVE to tell you that the belts from Al Bino are fantastic. The company and service are great, and he is super helpful. But the composite belts I just could not get to work. I renovated a Smart & Brown 1024 and choose his belt...it seemed to have minimal grip and slipped a lot. I have no experience with the leather ones, but can't imagine that they aren't of excellent quality.

In the end I would up with the belt material from McMaster, I have a belt lacer and lots of the clips and used that. People talk about the annoying clicking sound of the joint going over the pulleys and in fact that is just the kind of thing that would drive me nuts so I was worried about that. In use I could almost barely hear it. THe McMAster belt material looks similar but feels a lot "grippier." I will probably use that or leather when I get around to the Wade. I'm still pondering the VFD but part of me wants to keep the Wade as original, but I wonder how the belt shifting mechanism actually works. THe VFD I rigged up on the S&B was fantastic.

Love the idea of super quiet composite, plus I do have the belt tensioner that, in theory, should alleviate slippage. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Once I have the idler bearings, idler, and belt tower installed, I still have to measure the length I need. I'll post up the prices and go from there.

Sandi, if there is ANY way I could combine the lower step pulley with a contemporary motor whilst keeping the belt guide AND add a VFD..... I'd be all over that! Talk about near infinite adjustment! However, now that I have 2nd Wade that has that complex "inner cabinet" configuration, I do NOT envy the attempt. Would be a fun challenge though. :)
 
Great day at the shop. I'm beat and was so productive I totally forgot to take pics. But! It is starting to look like a Wade again. Maybe by 2022 it'll be turning chips..... Maybe.
 
7 feet, 9 and 1/4 inches. That is the length of the belt. It may not seem like a big deal but for the last 5 years I've been wondering how long of a belt I'll need. Today I FINALLY have all the parts made, bolted in place, and able to take that measurement! Time to go buy a belt! Technically, I believe that if I had a belt, I could at least take it for a test spin. <Rim shot>. I still have a TON of little things to do coupled with any issues I have once under power. However, things are looking better than ever and I'm super stoked.
 
Been a while and a lot has happened. Made some parts, cleaned up a ton of others, FINALLY got the drive gears cleaned up, aligned, and working. Belt tower was a MAJOR pain. I was able to pick up two other Wades and out of the 3, ONE belt tower worked properly. Anyway, long story short, my Wade ran under it's own power today!! Here's a couple of short, and crappy, vids. Heck of a day for me. Been a LONG time coming. Lots to do before we can make chips and even more before I can measure the run out and put this thing to REAL use but we're getting there!

 
NICE!

"Wade. The thinking man's Hardinge..."

Ducks.. waddles off.. stage left....
Having made many of the replacement parts on a Hardinge HLV-NNN (nnn=I have no clue what model it is.), I'll take that as a compliment! Gawd the Hardinge is a dream to operate! ;)
 
Thermite, I can't speak from much experience as I've only ever turned on a Victor and Hardinge. However, I think I get what you're saying as I do have to get into a different mindset on the Hardinge. (I think the Hardinge I've used is an HLV-H.)
Now, I'm no "machinist" but I do realize the "engine vs tool room" lathe comparison is vast. That being said, even this Apprentice can turn to .0001 easily on the HLV. Don't even get me started on the "which would you rather part off" question. If I can, its the HLV EVERY time.
Hopefully my Wade is a better machine than I am a Machinist. Regardless, it has been a true labor of love and pleasure to get this 8a running again. I do recognize my Wade may never be as good as the HLV. But, my Wade is uniquely mine and it will always be a joy to run. Kind of like kids. Frustrating, but mine. :)
 








 
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