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Walker Turner 20" Drill Press Rehabilitation Journey

Bill D - are you talking about motor bearings or spindle bearings?
Not the motor bearings AFAIK. I bought mine sans motor. The specials were at the top of the spindle. I think the extended bit went into the driven pulley.
Grease and bearing quality has improved in the last 70 years so I would use double rubber sealed today.
BilL D
I think the lower quill bearing originally was an expensive double row ball. I seem to remember that I replaced it with a single row bearing. It has worked fine for over ten years of home shop use.
Bill D
I am 6'2", for me the 20" dp was kind of low. I made a wood box and raised it up. The box raised it about 12". I made it tall enough to hold #10 cans full of heavy iron stuff like nuts and bolts as ballast.
I am still looking for the rewind spring since mine came broken off. There are at least two widths.
My crank gear box cover with gears fit perfect but.. I had to make a spacer shim about 3/8" thick. I actually used a scrap of pergo flooring as a pattern and have not made the permeant one yet since it works well.
Bill D
Were I work we have a similar Walker Turner machine from 1944-1948. Let me know if you need any measurements or pictures off of it.

When I first saw ours, I assumed it was an old piece of junk. I have since decided it is one of the most rigid and smooth drill presses I have ever used. I love it. Who knew an 80 year old drill press would feel nicer than a new one. You post inspired me to go and see if I can find a replacement belt cover for ours.
Bill - thanks for the hearing info. I got the fan side of the motor disassembled this afternoon. Not much different than the other end - a couple of wavy washers and a thin flat washer. Only one retaining wife at the outsides of the bearing. Bearing was another 6204. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to use open bearings - probably shields both sides as I have heard they have less drag then rubber seals.
RWA - that's a nice looking machine. I've got some problems coming up with the head that you may be able to help with. In the meantime does the base on that machine have drilled and tapped holes for leveling screws. Mine did but they may have been used modified.

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The extra drag is not noticeable on a motor over say 1/10 hp. It is an issue on a conveyor belt or ski lift with hundreds of bearings.
In a shop I would use sealed bearings. for rpms below 5,000 or so. unless your shop is clean enough to eat off the drill press table after using it and before cleaning it.
Remember synthetic rubber is much better then it was during ww2. I think a lot of hold out machine tool makers for shielded bearing did it to save costs in a not noticeable area.

Bill D
Is there anything wrong with the factory bearings? The reason I am asking as I have motors here with 200 000+ hours on them [ventilation fans] still on the factory bearings. I have replaced some motor bearings, not due to age but to being out in the weather or corrosive environments, and if they were greasable, they would likely still be in service.
Thanks Bill - good points and you may have me changing my mind :)
Dundeeshopnut - these bearing don't feel very good but it may be they just need cleaned and regreased but the motor is all apart ad the bearings are going to be under $20 - why not replace them?

So I'm thinking about motor clean up and as you probably saw upthread my motor tag is in rough shape

Motor Tag 1.jpg

Motor Tag 2.jpg
When I compare to this from vintage machinery there seem to be color differences

WT_Motor_Tag1_a VM.png

However it might very well be that the differences are just old age/dirt/grime/corrosion. So tell me what you see or maybe easier tell me if you have seen multiple versions of this motor tag with different color patterns. Mine is from 1940-ish.

Remove the wire clip and push bearing out that side. 6204 is a common bearing size, 6204zz will have rubber shields on both sides, you can remove one side if that is what you want.

Not quite. ZZ means shielded both sides (metal shields that do not touch the inner race) and 2RS means sealed both sides (rubber seals that do rub on the inner race).

Many people don't realize that as electric motors heat up, the rotor shaft grows longer by a small amount. The bearings are not intended to be stuck in place, but rather are supposed to be able to slide on the shaft slightly to accommodate the variations in rotor length with temperature. Often the grease fittings are more about greasing the shaft so the bearings can move rather than greasing the bearings to help them rotate.

Normally the output shaft and bearing are locked in place. the fan end is allowed to float a bit.
Shame they did not use an E-clip instead of that simple ring.
Bill D
Any ideas for sources to reproduce a motor data plate like the picture below?

View attachment 434443
So I found a place that will reproduce this badge - $45 for the 3 color printed badge on metal and another $25 for etching the data plate info. That's a lot but not outrageous. The other option would be to use the old date plate and put a water slide decal over it. Any thoughts?
That's interesting, Metalmagpie, I have never heard that before. Not necessarily disputing it - just new to me.
Thermal expansion is also why you see wavy spring washers outside of your motor bearings - they help the bearings slide along the rotor shaft. Whenever you take apart a motor use extreme caution to retain and identify the location for those wavy washers.
great post Rick, these are my favorite posts I think, resurrecting old iron can be very rewarding and very frustrating. Would you link your source for the tags, sounds like a good resource. Jim