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Walker Turner 20" Drill Press Rehabilitation Journey

I have some 20” Walker Turner parts about to go in the scrap bin if there is any interest.
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Thanks for the offer - I haven't gotten to the head yet. I do know that on mine there is a chunk broken off the head casting where the motor mounting stud goes in the head - basically where the bolt goes in to hold the motor distance. I think your head is bit different than mine so the cost of shipping the head on a chance it would work is likely prohibitive. It would be nice to have that section of the head cut out - maybe it could be scabbed in to my head. BTW my head is estimated to be from late 1930's.

Finally was able to complete something today - got the motor wrapped up and retested - runs like a champ. The motor is huge - it is a 3/4 HP 1140 RPM version of a WT motor and weighs in at 70# - YIKES


As Received.jpg


Complete Overall.jpg

Complete Pulley End.jpg

Complete Non Fan End.jpg

Complete Electrical Box.jpg

Tom - I'll likely be clled a heretic but I cleaned up the base first with a wire wheel followed by wet dry sand paper 80 to 1000 grit then a paste wax. I realize there are going to be folks that will say to never use sand paper on a machined surface but come on - its a drill press - not necessarily a highly precision machine.


So for the second time I have been bit by WT's use of a 24 TPI fastener - specifically a 7/16-24 hex jam nut. I can't find this anywhere - as a last resort I could probably make one but that would definitely be a last resort. Anyone have a source for oddball fasteners? BTW I suspect this is a UNS thread type.

Also need a 1/4' ball oiler - haven't really looked for that yet but am open to source suggestions.

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More progress - table, table elevation and table lock completed and installed on column. Appreciate any suggestions on filling arc of shame holes.

Completed Front.jpgCompleted Elevation.jpgCompleted Rear.jpgCompleted Table.jpg

No more excuses - the head is next.

Appreciate any suggestions on filling arc of shame holes.

If you don't care about cosmetics, fill the holes with metal-bearing epoxy e.g. Devcon. If you do and you only have a few to do, you can pound in cast iron plugs and then file them smooth. If you have a good cast iron welder in your area you can pay maybe $250 to get it welded up and ground. Finally, you can bond a piece of tool steel over the entire surface and basically start over again.
I've gone two routes noted above by metalmagpie. Both effective and your choice based upon the final result and cost you want to achieve. JB Weld metal/epoxy after cleaning the holes well, then block sanding gave a nice result for a Buffalo bench drill, with a nice smooth, level surface although the color difference is obvious. On a Snyder camelback that I viewed more as a restoration, a welder friend filled the holes and I then had the table blanchard ground--the results are almost indistinguishable.

Tom B.