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Walker Turner 20" Drill Press Rehabilitation Journey

Park a bigass vise on the table [you are going to need one anyways if you do metal] or your sacrificial plywood [it appears you are primarily a woodworker] and 95% of the time you won't even see the divots.
 
I'm definitely leaning towards "leave it as is". Yeah its not pristine but none of the divots are creating a functional problem. At least for now I think I'll be turning a blind eye to the table :)

Rick
 
I have decided if I do anything to the arc of shame it will be JB Weld. Right now I am in the leave as is camp.

I got the head stripped down to the casting - no real problems. The power feed did take some thinking and suggestions from an acquaintance but it did come apart - pretty easy once you get going on it. The spindle pulley was also a stumbler - until I figured out that the upper bearing retainer could be removed from the bottom through the quill opening.

Here is the starting point

Head Starting Point.jpg

and a few of the result

Head Stripped Left.jpg

Head Stripped Right.jpg

Two questions - there is a cover plate at the rear of the head that covers a cut out in the head - any thoughts as to why that cut out exists?

Colum Cut Out.jpg

The final "known" problem is a piece that is broken off of the motor mount stud cavity.

Broken Motor Mount Stud Cavity.jpg

I have a lead on a replacement head but won't have it in my hands until late June. I do have some concerns with parts fitting the replacement head - it is theoretically the same vintage but I'm not sure how interchangeable 1940 parts are - perhaps they were fitted to specific heads? Should that be the case is there any suggested fixes for my head to make the broken area functional?

Thanks
Rick
 
So here is the head badge from my WT

Head Badge.jpg

Its very dirty but appears to have no paint - this is from a 1940 machine. I tried cleaning with water and dawn - its a little better and appears to be brassy. I don't see any paint' Does anyone have an example of this type of oval badge? Did it have paint and its just worn off of mine or was there no paint?

Thanks
Rick
 
So here is the head badge from my WT

View attachment 437531

Its very dirty but appears to have no paint - this is from a 1940 machine. I tried cleaning with water and dawn - its a little better and appears to be brassy. I don't see any paint' Does anyone have an example of this type of oval badge? Did it have paint and its just worn off of mine or was there no paint?

Thanks
Rick

@Rick_B I don't have the exact badge, but have very similar badge on my 900 series (15") from 1940s. It has orange color as shown.

20231216_141505a.jpg
 
Thanks for that picture - appreciate it. Now t least I know what color it should be.

Rick
Not so fast :)
I have googled and found attached badge in dark navy blue.

78790784_8C31EFEC6C91415DA2B98E1D85EE6417.jpeg

There are additional observations- Both mine and the above has serial # window on the badge while yours does not. Also, mine and yours have fonts engraved/embossed while the navy blue one is flat.
 
Von Industrial have already done a plate for your make of drill press. Might be affordable since the setup fees are already done.
 
Von Industrial have already done a plate for your make of drill press. Might be affordable since the setup fees are already done.
Already talked to Tom at Von - he has not done a tag without the serial number field so art changes would be necessary - starts to put it out of my budget for sure. It is a solid brass tag so it may end a polished brass tag.

Rick
 
In the process of removing the spindle pulley I noticed it had a chunk broke out of it

Broken Spindle Pulley 1.jpgBroken Spindle Pulley 2.jpg

Looking for opinions regarding the functionality of this pulley as is or if replacement is necessary? BTW - this pulley has a smaller take off pulley attached to it for the power feed drive but I believe they are separate and the larger pulley is separate?

Thanks
Rick
 
Its claimed that every day is an opportunity to learn - well what I learned today was never try to remove a pulley bearing without removing the set screw

Broken Spindle Pulley 3.jpg

Fortunately that pulley came to me broken - not near as catastrophic, so it needed replacing anyway.

Rick
 
In the process of removing the spindle pulley I noticed it had a chunk broke out of it

View attachment 437757View attachment 437758

Looking for opinions regarding the functionality of this pulley as is or if replacement is necessary? BTW - this pulley has a smaller take off pulley attached to it for the power feed drive but I believe they are separate and the larger pulley is separate?

Thanks
Rick

if it's being used in a production shop, i'd recommend to replace.

For hobby shop/home garage, i will assess cost-benefits and I may use as-is-
Negative impact could be
1) one less speed option by not using the broken step
2) if the broken step is still being used,
a) belt could be worn out sooner
b) could be more noise in operation
3) regardless of the broken step being used or not, the pulley imbalance could cause more vibration and/or noise
4) likelihood of the broken pulley explosion is rather small, I'd guess

so... it's all about trade-offs and compromises...
 
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I diverted myself from the spindle disassembly to the depth stop. Pretty basic - the parts list shows two HD63-N Stop nut used on the stop rod. The picture of that nut is not very clear but it appears to have a raised section. My machine came with two standard hex nuts - one a bit bigger OD than then the other. I'm wondering if anyone has a picture of the factory stop nut (HD63-N). I did see a more complicated arrangement on a vintage machinery picture

Depth Stop Example 1.jpg

Wondering if that is a factory arrangement because of the power feed or a user modification?

Thanks form any information
you may have

Rick
 
This is going to be a long post and there may be references from OWWM as this is mostly a cut and paste from there.

Just to show I haven't abandoned this project here is some of the parts I have been working on

Completed Parts 051024.jpg

I have been working on the spindle and bearings with Jeff at WTSM (more on that below). He was able to provide some age related information as follows - this information relates to the badge with no serial number field. The serial number Jeff mentions is from my casti iron belt guard speed chart:

"Although these were introduced in 1941, they were not advertised for general industry until 1943 - again, most likely federal war funding prioritized early production to government contractors - fuzzy past on this. Your serial number indicates design release of November 1943 - therefore your machine was manufactured most likely in 1944. The model number D1101 oddly does not show up in their 1943 catalogs, they jump from D1101-A, B, C to D1102 (bench model). So this may be a select production model for government contractor."

I sent him the info Dan provided above which put the date at 1940 - his response:

"That info you attached pertains to the 15" 900 Series drill presses - the coat of arms style badge was indeed on late 30's 900 Series, then in 1940 they switched to the round style, adding a s/n bar in 1941."

He does not dispute Dan - just feels like it may not pertain to the 1100 models. In any event I am OK with a 1940 to 1943 date and am going to move on.

I thought I'd take a moment to summarize the issues, status and resolution I have run into so far. The three most critical:

Broken Head
The head had a severe break at the pocket for the motor mount stud. Several options for repair were considered. I was able to locate a replacement head and although it had a crack in the front hood the current owner is going to repair it via brazing. I should have that in hand end of June.

Broken Spindle Pulley
Spindle pulley had a chunk missing from the rim of the lower step. I likely would have used as is except I completely destroyed it when removing the bearings. I was able to source a replacement pulley with bearings from a generous fellow member (Doug Walls). I did need to pull it apart to assemble the small power feed take off pulley and pin it to the main spindle pulley. That is mostly done - I still need to clean up the top and bottom bearing retainers for that assembly.

Broken Worm Gear in Table Raiser
The gear box on the table raiser had a worm gear with 5 or 6 missing teeth - well not missing - I found them in the grease inside the gear box. I was able to source a used gear (and a lot of other gear box parts), Table raiser is assembled/ installed on the column and working ;like a charm.

The rest of my issues so far are fairly minor/nice tom have type of things:

Missing Jam Nut
Missing a 1/2-24 jam nut for the table raising handle - sourced from a WT FB group member and on its way to me

Missing ball oiler
Again for the table raiser gear box - several sources available - just haven't ordered yet

Power down Feed
Several issues - missing side cover - sourced from a fellow OWWM'er and in hand. Missing feed rate badge for side cover - I have a source for a new one but am trying to find something used to help control costs. Missing fillister bolts for side cover - sourced at local ACE hardware.

Head Badge
Mine was very beat up and missing all the paint. I have found a source for a new one and potentially a used one. Also considering using the original as polished brass. This is another cost control issue. Resolution undecided.

Spindle
After some difficulty getting the spindle and quill disassembled I was able to evaluate the bearings. Not sure if I previously posted this or not so I'll assume not. The top bearing was hand scribed 465966Z which is the WT special bore designated bearing with one side shielded and the other open. It was dry but free moving. The bottom was machine marked SKF 5205 R on the outer race with a JH. The inner race was marked LW 05 R with a C. In discussing this with Jeff and providing some measurements we have concluded that the top bearing is, in fact, a WT special bore and the bottom is a standard bore 5205. Jeff's conclusion about my spindle

"OK - indeed you have a mongrel spindle there - the bearing picture you provided is a very old SKF bearing, so this may be a case that Walker Turner had to source what would be a standard metric 5205 bearing instead of their spec 70732 larger bore due to WW2 shortages. Curious if you have a serial number on your machine - either on tag, or if this is from 1940 - 1943, a brass tag on base casting? I'll make a note in our cross reference."

I'm going to buy a high quality ABEC C3 5205 from Jeff and try repacking the top 465966 bearing.

Depth Stop
Discovered the depth stop nuts were incorrect and that the power feed model had some unique depth stop parts that were missing on mine (Thanks Tom).While the machine will work fine without them I would like to find them. I have two potential sources and the option of making them if necessary.

So that pretty much sums up the current status. I think there is more detail on most of these issues in previous posts in this thread. Stay tuned for more progress.

Rick
 
In the process of cleaning up the return spring housing I noticed two previously repaired breaks. I am not a welder or brazer but these appear pretty sad but, I think, functional?

Return Spring Housing Top.jpg

Return Spring Housing Breqk 2.jpg

Return Spring Housing Break 1.jpg

One appears brazed Yellowish color) and the other welded (silver colored) - like I said not an expert.

First off - would you agree these appear to be functional repairs. This must be a weak spot in the WT design as I have another housing with very similar breaks. If functional - I am wondering if there is any potential harm in grinding them down for a bit better appearance. I am leaning towards leaving them as is.

Thoughts/opinions?

Rick
 
While I would like it to look a little better I think that it is probably better to leave well enough alone. I would not see a need to readjust the tension once it is reassembled and adjusted. I think that is going to stay as is until I at least have a lead on a reasonable priced replacement housing.

Upthread I presented a question relating to how the feed handle arms were attached to the hub. In the absence of any response or ideas I decided to follow my gut. I picked one arm and drilled out the pin - the arm was indeed a very loose fit in the hub with only a pin holding it in the hub.

Feed Hub and  Arm.jpg

Feed Arm Drilled Out.jpg

And the arm did indeed have a half a slot cut into it

Feed Arm Slot.jpg

I'm not sure if this factory or not - I doubt it but if it is I don't like it. My plan is to remake the arms with threads on both ends and tap the hub. I'm not sure at this point if I will tap the hub ior use a threaded insert. Depends on the size of the existing hole in the hub. Another option would be to make the arm a tight slip fit in the hub with a flat and tap the original pin hole for a set screw.

I'm open to other options if you have some thoughts

Rick
 
Rick, I don't think a little judicious file work would weaken that repair substantially. I wonder if the press got knocked over to sustain all the dings you have found so far. Jim
 
Rick, I don't think a little judicious file work would weaken that repair substantially. I wonder if the press got knocked over to sustain all the dings you have found so far. Jim
Not sure what happened - the two biggest damaged areas are on the opposite sides of the machine. I have another return spring housing with very similar damage so maybe that is a weak WT design?

Rick
 








 
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