Welding Table design..

[rbent]

I like the table John. I really enjoy the slat layout that my buildpro table is and it looks like you did a great job in duplicating that design. Don't forget the countersinks on the 5/8" holes to get the build pro ball bearing hold down bolts to work right though when you get the holes poked in the platens.

Build Pro also sells a table with Nitrided platens, they actually work really really well for keeping splatter from sticking.

Yes, I will agree with you though, the base under the Build Pro tables is somewhat lacking and wimpy. The best thing I've done with mine though is sling two toolboxes underneath with foam cutouts for my tooling to keep it organized and in place when not using it.

 

[dsergison]

Pulling your existing plate flat with screws / shims is trivial and cheap. I do like the strip tables, but I would always be dropping small parts through it.

 

[John Madarasz]

...I do like the strip tables, but I would always be dropping small parts through it.

That's a good point, I'm going to design a little rack maybe 6" under the top with some removable sheet metal trays to drop electrode stubs and the ends of filler rods, and sweepings during cleanup...and it will be a great catch for tooling and parts that slip through the cracks

 

[rbent]

Pulling your existing plate flat with screws / shims is trivial and cheap. I do like the strip tables, but I would always be dropping small parts through it.

I actually haven't had hardly any issues with mine and lost hardware through the slats and I'm even a fumble fingers with welding gloves on. Things just don't seem to have a tendency to drop through the holes, but I don't weld many small parts either.

If you do put a tray under yours, allow some places to put cabinets for storage down there and some space that the tray isn't under so you can drop long parts through the table and have clearance. Tucked under the table top seems to be a good place for welding table clamps since you don't shoot sparks/slag UNDER the welding table, just everywhere around it so it stays pretty clean tucked right under the top. I put my pull drawer cabinets under mine about 8 months ago and they stay surprisingly clean, just have to remember to shut the drawers when welding or little burns happen in the foam...

 

[jcorsico]

When I made my table, I used a 4'x6' peice of 304L stainless plate, 1" thick. I welded vertical stiffening webs under the plate, 1/4" thick and 6" tall. The supports are inset about 5" from the edge of the plate so you can easily clamp on the edge. On one side of the plate, the supports are cut out so that you can sit at the plate like desk.

After welding the supporting webs, I had the plate stress relieved at a heat treating shop and then blanchard ground flat. It's very flat and works very well. Although, if I did it again, I'd use stiffeners that were 1/2" thick rather than 1/4".

Do not expect your plate to be flat from the steel mill. Mine had a nice bow. I pushed it out using a hydraulic jack while welding on the support webs, but after adding the webs, it was still warped - just in a different way than from the mill... Getting it stress releived and then ground flat solved all the warpage problems.

A simple peice of plate (even one that is 1" thick) is not particularly stiff. You need to add supporting webs if you want it to be stiff.

See drawing (I'd upload a PDF, but this message board only allows PDF files that are ridiculously small).

 

[Jimmy_pop]

One option I haven't seen discussed is to build a slatted table like the buildpro tables. I've been kicking around table designs for about a year...Spoke with lots of guys on here and read other places, did lots of research and even spoke to the owner of the Buildpro Tables, I went down to Weldsale to look at their operation and put a deposit on a light duty 2" thick 36" x 72" table. After all was said and done I decided to build my own table. It's 40" x 74", but expandable to 50 x 74.

Used 2" square P&O tube for the top frame .25" wall, and 3/4" x 6" x 1018 CRS plates that are drilled and tapped into the tube frame with 3/8-24 socket head bolts. I'm making alot of my own tooling from scraps I had in stock...most of the buildpro tooling is outrageously priced and you can make stuff just as good from scrap. You could easily make a table like this from 1" x 6" x 48" on a heavier tube frame. Once I get a little breathing room from the jobs I have going on I'll build my undercarriage frame from 2.5" square tube with 1/4" wall so I can move it around with my pallet jack., Set it anywhere and just shim it level and bolt it to the floor I'll make the feet leveling... or just shim into level easily. I set this up initially on an existing bench to knock out a couple medium weight precision jobs I have to get done and work out the design and give it a test run...so far so good.

Here's why I like this table...the plates are infinitely shim-able into dead flat. There's 4" x 1" x 7/8" spacers under each plate. You can shim the plates individually into flat, and shim the top frame onto the undercarriage as well. The plates bolt to the top frame and the top frame will bolt to the undercarriage. The plates can be easily moved or swapped out with wood or composite if needed, or any other type of sacrificial material. The plates can be removed to accommodate parts and setups during welding and fitup. The 6" plates easily fit into my mill for drilling/tapping/ and machining into square. The plates can be drilled to accommodate and use most any buildpro tooling. Clamping and fixturing is open to a zillion different configs. Table top weight is about 600 lbs...(the 3 x 6 x 2" thick cast iron weldsale platen top weighs 800 lbs). I figure by the time I build the heavy duty base with shelving I'll have a table that weighs over a thousand lbs by a good bit...AND if I ever have to move the table can easily be broken down into manageable pieces and reassembled in the new location no problem.

I didn't like the Buildpro table because it was too light weight...and I didn't like the weldsale platen because it didn't have the flexibilty to expand like my table. So I made a bastardized table and I already love it. it's square to within less than .032 all around and it is damn near dead flat and shimmed dead level. The 3/4" plates take all the heat I can throw at it, and haven't flexed or moved a bit...even when the plates are too hot to touch. Here's a couple pics...something to think about. Once I build the undercarriage this thing will be perfect for my needs. I have about $1200.00 in materials into this so far.

The plates are all numbered and referenced, so later I'll take them to my buddies CNC shop to get em peppered with 5/8" holes for the tooling and expanded layout capabilities the buildpro table has. This should be a nice table that will serve me for the rest of my days when it's all finished in a couple months...


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I really like the scissor lift base. very nice. I used a solid wood door for about 3 years, then used a used piece of aluminum slab for a while. both were flat and splatter didnt stick but i could not clamp internally. Finally had money at the same time as finding a good deal on a couple acorn platens (weldsale actually) and used them for a couple years before getting something else. I like having the small holes more frequently much better than the big 1.75 square, especially for my piddly art stuff. Your design is a great one John.

 

[IAMATT]

One option I haven't seen discussed is to build a slatted table like the buildpro tables. I've been kicking around table designs for about a year...Spoke with lots of guys on here and read other places, did lots of research and even spoke to the owner of the Buildpro Tables, I went down to Weldsale to look at their operation and put a deposit on a light duty 2" thick 36" x 72" table. After all was said and done I decided to build my own table. It's 40" x 74", but expandable to 50 x 74.

Used 2" square P&O tube for the top frame .25" wall, and 3/4" x 6" x 1018 CRS plates that are drilled and tapped into the tube frame with 3/8-24 socket head bolts. I'm making alot of my own tooling from scraps I had in stock...most of the buildpro tooling is outrageously priced and you can make stuff just as good from scrap. You could easily make a table like this from 1" x 6" x 48" on a heavier tube frame. Once I get a little breathing room from the jobs I have going on I'll build my undercarriage frame from 2.5" square tube with 1/4" wall so I can move it around with my pallet jack., Set it anywhere and just shim it level and bolt it to the floor I'll make the feet leveling... or just shim into level easily. I set this up initially on an existing bench to knock out a couple medium weight precision jobs I have to get done and work out the design and give it a test run...so far so good.

Here's why I like this table...the plates are infinitely shim-able into dead flat. There's 4" x 1" x 7/8" spacers under each plate. You can shim the plates individually into flat, and shim the top frame onto the undercarriage as well. The plates bolt to the top frame and the top frame will bolt to the undercarriage. The plates can be easily moved or swapped out with wood or composite if needed, or any other type of sacrificial material. The plates can be removed to accommodate parts and setups during welding and fitup. The 6" plates easily fit into my mill for drilling/tapping/ and machining into square. The plates can be drilled to accommodate and use most any buildpro tooling. Clamping and fixturing is open to a zillion different configs. Table top weight is about 600 lbs...(the 3 x 6 x 2" thick cast iron weldsale platen top weighs 800 lbs). I figure by the time I build the heavy duty base with shelving I'll have a table that weighs over a thousand lbs by a good bit...AND if I ever have to move the table can easily be broken down into manageable pieces and reassembled in the new location no problem.

I didn't like the Buildpro table because it was too light weight...and I didn't like the weldsale platen because it didn't have the flexibilty to expand like my table. So I made a bastardized table and I already love it. it's square to within less than .032 all around and it is damn near dead flat and shimmed dead level. The 3/4" plates take all the heat I can throw at it, and haven't flexed or moved a bit...even when the plates are too hot to touch. Here's a couple pics...something to think about. Once I build the undercarriage this thing will be perfect for my needs. I have about $1200.00 in materials into this so far.

The plates are all numbered and referenced, so later I'll take them to my buddies CNC shop to get em peppered with 5/8" holes for the tooling and expanded layout capabilities the buildpro table has. This should be a nice table that will serve me for the rest of my days when it's all finished in a couple months...


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The difference between your table and the build pro is the build pro uses a cast steel of some kind.

 

[Rodl]

Our welding/fab table is a piece of 3/4" x 4' x 8' that I picked up for scrap many years ago. It had a piece cut out of one side that was just as big as the base of my chop saw. It now holds the chop saw on a hinged drop so that the table of the saw is the same height as the rest of the table. The saw is also matched up with a repair trailer that we use around the farm. Pull two pins and carry the whole thing to the trailer. The piece on the end of the table where the saw is cut out is where the vice is mounted. If you need to, pull one pin and the saw drops out of the way. A very handy shelf under the table collects a lot of "stuff", but the rolling cart at the end holds all of the tools and clamps. This makes it possible to roll the tool cart to the job if you are not working on the table. We also have a 4 x 4 x 1/2" that is dedicated to our production welding area.

 

[kazlx]

This is mine. Roughly 4'x6'. Top is 5/8". Blanchard ground and cut on a Waterjet. Holes are 5/8" to fit build pro tooling. Works great for fit up and welding. I spray the areas around with Pam or nozzle dip when mig welding on it or cover with pieces of sheetmetal. Legs are 5x5x0.250 wall. The top had roughly a 1/16 bow in it. I countersunk 3/8-16 bolts in the top to the frame and cross bars to pull it flat (flat being a 4ft square). If i had the room, it wouldn't be on wheels.

 

[crankgrinder]

I was at a yard sale a couple of years ago, and saw one of these "Turtle Tables" with a 6 inch beater vise attached to it, and vintage dual locking swivel wheels on each leg, that will hold allot of weight. This one is almost identical to mine, except i mounted my Miller 230 on top of the bottom cross members. I paid 20 bucks for it, and i had to replace all 8 wheels that were given to me by a friend. These old tables were surfaced ground to be flat and square, but mine has been well used, and has some hammer marks and dings in it, which is no big deal to me. These were originally use as Linotype tables in printing establishes.

Wayne

edit: PS: This is my first post, so I'm not sure why I have Plastic under my user name?

 

[PeteM]

. . . edit: PS: This is my first post, so I'm not sure why I have Plastic under my user name?

Wayne, This site starts everyone at "plastic" and ups the ante to new materials as your post count goes up. You're already in a great place if old enough to remember the career advice in the movie "The Graduate."

 

[Jimmy_pop]

Crank-

I was in commercial printing for 20 years before getting into metal and 27 years before getting a flat table of my own. I'd love to have one of these lino tables. Thanks for posting. I'll have to start looking on CL. Welcome to WW.

 

[MetalMedic1]

This is mine. Roughly 4'x6'. Top is 5/8". Blanchard ground and cut on a Waterjet. Holes are 5/8" to fit build pro tooling. Works great for fit up and welding. I spray the areas around with Pam or nozzle dip when mig welding on it or cover with pieces of sheetmetal. Legs are 5x5x0.250 wall. The top had roughly a 1/16 bow in it. I countersunk 3/8-16 bolts in the top to the frame and cross bars to pull it flat (flat being a 4ft square). If i had the room, it wouldn't be on wheels.

What was your cost for this build?

 

[kazlx]

What was your cost for this build?

About $900. But I scrounged all material. The top was from a table I bought on CL for $100. Rest was drops from my local yard. Paid cash for all services.

 

[brianweldor]

When I made my table, I used a 4'x6' peice of 304L stainless plate, 1" thick. I welded vertical stiffening webs under the plate, 1/4" thick and 6" tall. The supports are inset about 5" from the edge of the plate so you can easily clamp on the edge. On one side of the plate, the supports are cut out so that you can sit at the plate like desk.

After welding the supporting webs, I had the plate stress relieved at a heat treating shop and then blanchard ground flat. It's very flat and works very well. Although, if I did it again, I'd use stiffeners that were 1/2" thick rather than 1/4".

Do not expect your plate to be flat from the steel mill. Mine had a nice bow. I pushed it out using a hydraulic jack while welding on the support webs, but after adding the webs, it was still warped - just in a different way than from the mill... Getting it stress releived and then ground flat solved all the warpage problems.

A simple peice of plate (even one that is 1" thick) is not particularly stiff. You need to add supporting webs if you want it to be stiff.

See drawing (I'd upload a PDF, but this message board only allows PDF files that are ridiculously small).

View attachment 91023

304 welding table??? how much antispatter do you use keeping that thing clean?

 

[E.F. Thumann]

The question that should be asked is: what kind of fab work are you doing??? If the majority is light migging or tigging, then a fabbed table will suffice. If you are doing all day mig, then go for a cast platen. The cast rejects spatter much more than a ground plate, as well as resists warping to the point that most guys have no qualms (including myself) about using a rosebud to heat/bend on the table. That is something I would never do on a plate-style table. Any welding you do to secure the topn(aside from single tacks about every foot) will end up warping your work surface which is entirely counterintuitive to having a good flat plane to reference off of. I'm saying this all after building a half dozen heavy tables, currently own one large fabbed one, and 2 platens.

 

[AccuBrass]

To level your table, I use a 4" tall piece of pipe that slip fits around the bottom of your leg. I weld a flat plate to the bottom of it. If It's going to sit in the same spot and never need to be leveled again, I level the table and weld the leveling boot in place. If it's going to need to be releveled down the road, I drill a hole through the side of the leveling boot and weld a nut to it and put a bolt in the hole. Once the table is levelled, the bolt it just tigntened. Real solid and easy to relevel.




AccuBrass.com

 

[AccuBrass]

If you need to bolt it in place, just drill holes in the bottom plate and bolt it to your foundation.


AccuBrass.com