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well new machine died Fanuc 18M Controller, not sure what happened.

BT Fabrication

Titanium
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Location
Ontario Canada
So went to fire up the machine yesterday and got hit with a ton of errors
Alarm 750 SPINDLE SERIAL LINK START FAULT
Alarm 414 on each axis X Y Z axis detect error
Alarm 351 on all xy and z axis seperate alarms for each AXIS COMMUNICATION error.
Alarm 1070 is my chiller which doesn't fire as no signal from a drive as it has power to the contactor but no ground.
and got the power supply PIL light flashing with the -- for the status, hopefully the drive didnt fry something inside.

any tips where to look? no blown fuses drive has power and grounds on the 18C unit. Ugh.....

the thing was working perfectly fine when shut down the night before. hopefully there is a fanuc guru in here.
 
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Just from general knowledge, it sounds like a power supply is not working. In many cases, DC power is taken from the main spindle amp to provide DC to other circuits such as axis amps. One the drives, you should have status lights to help guide you, or the lack of, meaning no power. A meter should help you source the issue. If power is being taken to the drive as AC, but the DC buss is dead, that is where to start. The control would tell the amp to turn on so that can be something to verify.

It is likely that a single culprit is the source of all your alarms. Control is trying to connect with things like spindle and axis amps, and can't.
 
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ya the PSU has status lights, the rest are dead other then the one that is flickering the display instead of having solid lights. and the servo amp is very dim. I have a video of it.
 
The good folks at Tennessee Industrial Electronics would be a good place to call. They'll do tech support over the phone and they probably have your PS on one of their shelves and can have it to you in a day or two.

No complaints about T.I.E., very competent. CNC Electronics in Charlottesville and San Diego might be less expensive on exchange/repair but not as good on phone support. Still a very good repair/exchange service on Fanuc of that vintage.
 
Yep looking like you were right, dc buss has an issue. Supposed to be 24V and 5 V output from power supply and is only about 6V and 2V
And fluctuating quite a bit like a capacitor is dead inside of it.
 
Yep looking like you were right, dc buss has an issue. Supposed to be 24V and 5 V output from power supply and is only about 6V and 2V
And fluctuating quite a bit like a capacitor is dead inside of it.
Flip your meter to AC and you might get a different story. I use a scope or usually my graphic FLuke DMM that will give me frequency and waveform. Yes, it sounds like some caps died and possible some diodes. Do more testing but that all seems about right. PSU death is common. Be like me and put that bitch on the bench and get to work fixing it.
 
Flip your meter to AC and you might get a different story. I use a scope or usually my graphic FLuke DMM that will give me frequency and waveform. Yes, it sounds like some caps died and possible some diodes. Do more testing but that all seems about right. PSU death is common. Be like me and put that bitch on the bench and get to work fixing it.
Yep that is the plan, check out what might have died. Did the same with the DRO on the manual mill when the power supply caps leaked. For the DRO about $10 in parts fixed it instead of a $700 PSU board in it.
on AC it was reading a couple Mv barely.
guessing they were weak caps, as when i checked input voltages they were a bit high due to the power company during the hot days upping the line voltage, then the next day was 60F from 90F and everyone stopped using there ac's and the voltage popped back up. Jumped like 3-4 V from usual 238-239V up to 243.4V
 
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Not a guarantee but does not sound like caps just yet. Being 24 and 5, that is likely more for switching and digital stuff. Not too much load. Usually when caps start going, there will be excessive ripple on the line. It is entirely possible, as I mentioned, that your meter cannot see it because the frequency is well outside of 60hz.

Document everything, then give it looksy.
 
Not a guarantee but does not sound like caps just yet. Being 24 and 5, that is likely more for switching and digital stuff. Not too much load. Usually when caps start going, there will be excessive ripple on the line. It is entirely possible, as I mentioned, that your meter cannot see it because the frequency is well outside of 60hz.

Document everything, then give it looksy.
ya i should probably throw my oscilloscope on it. see what it is exactly doing.
the 2V was jumping all over on the multimeter from 1.6V up to 2.8 then 1.9 then 2.2 and etc( yes i understand they give an average, have experience in automotive repair of sensors)
same with the 24V where it was 4.7v up to 8.1V etc and all over.
 
ya i should probably throw my oscilloscope on it. see what it is exactly doing.
the 2V was jumping all over on the multimeter from 1.6V up to 2.8 then 1.9 then 2.2 and etc( yes i understand they give an average, have experience in automotive repair of sensors)
same with the 24V where it was 4.7v up to 8.1V etc and all over.
It's likely an SMPS and is continually trying to ramp up, then shut down due to improper feedback or a short that is pulling too much current. An SMPS will fall on it's face if over driven.

yes, I would put the scope on. The DC should be deadly smooth. If you have AC ripple, she has issues. A typical DMM is tuned for 60hz. Believe me, it has screwed me more than once, especially in automotive on magneto AC outputs. It will show the AC voltage dropping with increase in RPM, which is totally false.
 
Yep you would probably be correct
The 2V side is about .5V then jumps to just under 1 V then up to 5 V then off
The 24 V goes from 2, then 4 then 6 and sometimes 12 V quickly then both cycles off in about a half second intervals
 
Very first thing here is to remove the loads from that PSU and see what it does to ensure you don't actually have something else shorted out which is causing an overdrive of that PSU. If it is flaky in any way with no loads, you are on the right component.
 
Very first thing here is to remove the loads from that PSU and see what it does to ensure you don't actually have something else shorted out which is causing an overdrive of that PSU. If it is flaky in any way with no loads, you are on the right component.
Yes already took off basically everything other then input power and was still faulty. looks like someone was in there before once.......
 
Yes already took off basically everything other then input power and was still faulty. looks like someone was in there before once.......
Oh good......:rolleyes5: I've seen quite the birdnest of BS in some "repairs". Hopefully yours looks decent. Or it could be the source of the failure.
 
Oh good......:rolleyes5: I've seen quite the birdnest of BS in some "repairs". Hopefully yours looks decent. Or it could be the source of the failure.
Yep looks good inside still.
Might have found the dead part. Looks like a 400V diode that is now no longer a diode that comes out of the transormer on the board.
D92M-03 part number
 
If you have found a culprit, always desolder and test out of circuit, then usually replace any that are in parallel as they could have been stressed from that failure. I have had it happen to me to replace one just to see another one fail in 10min. You may also be able to spot some upgrade components of higher voltage rating which can help protect the system. High voltage transients can take out diodes.
 








 
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