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What cord grip to secure a cord to this motor?

newtonsapple

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May 16, 2017
I have a Baldor totally enclosed, 1hp, 3ph 1200rpm motor I am installing as a replacement on drill press. There is no attached wiring box and instead, the wiring space is in the back of the motor as it does not have a fan. I am using 14/4 SJOOW cord (short run from a VFD). The wire "knockout" is .868" ID and .35" thick. I can't find a cord grip or clamp that will accommodate the .35" thickness. Does anyone know what to use here?

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Yes that was probably 1/2" threaded on a 1hp motor and someone enlarged it. I believe you can use a Halex 3/4" clamp connector and the nut will thread on from the inside.
 
Go to McMaster and search “Aluminum Submersible coed grip” I’ve used them on motors with up to #10 SJOOW cord
Thanks, I think this one has a chance of working. On the similar plastic ones I have, the threaded length is just short of .400" and I don't get any thread engagement on the inside nut.
 

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Often these ports are threaded - did a former owner drill the threads out?

The whole size is right on for a drilled out 1/2" NPT. It was new old stock off ebay, still in a Baldor box if I remember correctly and had a filler plug with paint on it in the hole. I guess some manufacture ordered it this way. I can't find a reference to the spec #.

I will try out the grip suggested above or another one if someone knows of one with a long threaded length. Worst case is I JB weld in a standard 1/2 fitting.
 

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1) You could tap it to 1"-8 as the hole size is close enough to ideal for that thread as is. Then add in any adaptor you might want that would accommodate the strain relief you'd like to use.

2) A friend with a 3-d printer and rudimentary CAD knowledge could make a sturdy plastic insert with any of a number of fixing methods---internal nut or even nicer would be a push-in sleeve with a shoulder and slits that allow it to slide into the hole and lock in place. Something like this. Printed in PETG it would be plenty robust for the job.

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Denis
 
No fan? That motor is probably air over. Okay for short time use. will burn up if overloaded or run too long.
Bill D

No fan, I am assuming that TE is equivalent to TENV (Totally Enclosed Non Ventilated), but that might not be true. There is another spec without a fan that you reference being TE air over. A fan isn't very useful running low RPM off a VFD anyways. A drill press is pretty light duty cycle. If it runs warm, I will 3d print a shroud and mount a quiet DC fan.
 
Cut a ring like for someones finger.
Tap a popular thread on the inside.
Epoxy ring in that hole.
Screw in your popular fitting.
 
Go to McMaster and search “Aluminum Submersible coed grip” I’ve used them on motors with up to #10 SJOOW cord
Thank you projectnut! This aluminum cord grip fit perfectly.

Next task fitting is to fit all the connected wires in the little compartment...

IMG_1101.jpg
 
Use a threaded nipple and close couple a handy box to the outside
of the motor, and make your splice connections there.
Much easier than dicking around in the end bell.
Make your own pecker head, so to say.

-Doozer

PS- Why was this so hard to figure he needs a cord grip ?
More like GJ every day.
And I swear, someone should ban talk on 3D printers
on this forum. It is not machining. It is dreaming in
marshmellow fluff.
 
PS- Why was this so hard to figure he needs a cord grip ?
More like GJ every day.
And I swear, someone should ban talk on 3D printers
on this forum. It is not machining. It is dreaming in
marshmellow fluff.
This situation is an example of where I am expecting an off the shelf part that was designed for this use. Turns out it exists as expected, I just couldn't find it despite generally being advanced at McMaster-Fu. Posted here, got a quick effective answer.

There are many legit discussion of 3d printing that can be had here with respect to production tooling and replacements for unobtainable parts. A shroud for mounting a DC fan is not something I can just buy and would make sense to print. I do agree with the sentiment that 3d printing is not the solution for everything. I've had to teach young engineers that we buy screws and don't print them...
 
McMaster-Carr also has a steel version of this cable grip, which I've used for outdoor equipment in extreme environments. It probably doesn't warrant the extra expense for this application, however.

 








 
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