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What have you made WITH your South Bend?

I really love that "rear head stock" with the cathead, what a great idea. It's now added to my list of "things I need to make".

Thanks for the repost!

I started this thread almost fifteen years ago. I haven't posted any photos since photobucket started charging to post photos and all the photos disappeared. Now some of the photos are back, does anyone know what happened? Any tips on the best way to post photos now? Anyone, made anything interesting on their lathes lately? Gary P. Hansen
I have a cheapo cross slide vice for my drillpress, it's mounted on 1/2" flat steel with a nub welded on the bottom to quickly swap out with the drillpress table. Thing is, there was no good place to store this.

So this idea came to mind. Made circular tee nuts to fit the press base keyhole slots. The bars where faced and cut to lenght on the lathe. Its very solid and holds the combined weight of the vice and the mounting plate.

Wanted to do this for years, but need a lathe to make it. Finally, this out out from under foot, the bars could of been welded, but using allen screws leaves options if there are any future mods that come to mind.

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Hello to all
I first posted this in June of 2010. Had the pictures removed by PHOTO BUCKET so decided I should repost and add back the pictures.
This is my 9" South bend and is ready to chamber 1.220 diameter Shilen L.V. Benchrest barrel. I have been chambering with a standard steady rest but could never get run out of less then .002 to .0015. I wanted better so I built this rear head stock and bored the spindle hole to 1.235 diameter. So that I could do barrel work through the head stock and now indicate the barrel to less then .0002 all the time. I can now cut chambers with a run out of less then .0003 or well under .0005 using a Mitutoyo 513-402 .0005 indicator. I indicate the muzzle end in using a dead center and a four jaw chuck to the same .0002 or well under .0005. I do this first by turning a flat on the muzzle end of the barrel using the dead center then putting the flat in the four jaw then indicate the muzzle under .001. Was not easy to make the rear headstock but was a lot of fun and about two years to get it running true to the lathe head stock. Also built this nice travel stop adjust to .001 inch for the last for last 2 inches the travel. I built the complete travel stop on the lathe using the milling attachment vice.

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I really like that tailstock depth measuring attachment, how it mounts to the dauber hole. How did you get that piece to stay there? I thought it was just a plain hole. Did you add loctite or thread it or something?
Marlco knurler clone

Here's something that I made both FOR my lathe and BY my lathe. It is my interpetation of the old Marlco knurler. Mind you that I have never SEEN a Marlco knurler in person - I only have about 8 photos of one. I made drawing off those eight or so photos.

This first pic is of the left side. I still have to descale the parts and then give select parts a hot blackening dip.


This pic shows the business end of the knurler.


This pic shows the right side of the knurler, with one of my tool holders attached. A future modification will be to cut dovetails in a thicker side piece to eliminate the need for a dedicated tool holder.


The knurler has a full 4" diameter capability. Here it is with its mouth wide open.


The next post shows the results of the knurler.


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Here is something that I used the Marlco knurler on.

Here is a Morse #3 standard with a SINGLE PASS knurl by the knurler.


Close up of the knurl. The material is 1018 steel. It takes some getting used to being able to create a knurl like this in only one pass.

You have done well sir! Excellent work on the knurling tool and the knurled tool.[emoji16] Thanks for the inspiration. I have to build one of those now too!![emoji3]

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Actually made a piece for my bench vise in the garage today. It has a rotating rear jaw for some reason, which makes it a problem when holding a small part anywhere but exact center of the jaws. I noticed years ago a hole through the rotating section, and the main body of the vise, and have always found something to throw in, to remove some of the movement- but never perfect. So today I used a piece of 1" stock, and made a tapered pin with a knurled knob to put in there, and removed most of the play. It was my first chance to play with my taper attachment, and I found it rather easy to use- I was quite pleased with the result- although I didn't hit the taper perfectly (I was using quick measurements to get the sizes)but it goes in snugly, and keeps the rear jaw from shifting out of place. I also used the "Buck Chuck" I got with that other lathe the other day for the first time. I'm rather happy with it. Nice 3 jaw scroll chuck, with 3 3/8" square drive locking lugs- rather than the single one on the chuck I have been using.

Got to use my straight cutter and knurling tool as well. Lots of little stuff- more practice :) Soon I have to start leaning how to use the milling machine... I need some cutters and a 1" arbor for that one: But I have the vertical milling setup and collet set as well, so I'm halfway there...

I needed to close off part of my deck due to a new dog. I made a gate and then realized it wouldn't be complete without a closer arm. The latch part was there from a previous gate so I just left it and went to the lathe!

Turned down some extremely hard steel that I found on the ground at a warehouse. It was a 5/8 diameter round bar with dirt on it but I suspected it was going to work since it was in the dirt for years and still had no rust! I got a little artsy with it to keep it interesting. I used an end mill in the chuck and an Aloris tool holder to help hold the work for some material removal.


I also got to use the collet closer draw bar I made to hold a drill bit.


Needed some custom risers to make it all work right. End mill operation to have them nest and hold the lock bar.



Turned out pretty nice. Works perfect!

Are the custom risers black, or just an illusion?

No same material with no special treatments! Hopefully my skills and time will allow some development in that area. I just was in a hurry at the end because of the new pup and no gate so not a lot of time to make them look as nice as the main bolt. It was an exposure thing to show the end mill work better. That material, whatever it is, sure made a nice finish when I took the time to set it up though...

This past weekend made a 3C collet holder and drawbar for my SB 9C.
Also made a thread protector from a 1 1/2-8 nut from Fastenal.20201025_215943.jpg20201025_161428.jpg20201025_161324.jpg20201025_155810.jpg
This past weekend made a 3C collet holder and drawbar for my SB 9C.
Also made a thread protector from a 1 1/2-8 nut from Fastenal.View attachment 303166View attachment 303167View attachment 303168View attachment 303169

That looks really nice. I do a lot of small diameter work in my collets and one thing I like about collet work on my lathe is that you can get your hands really close to the work. Making contact with the collet closer is no problem but it looks like your setup will have a spinning hex right there. Did you consider making that hex part round and adding a hole or two for a spanner to tighten? Mine has a spanner hole but it is also knurled slightly so I usually just had tighten it against the collet adapter for rigidity.

There is actually plenty of room and the front of the nut I put a 20 deg. bevel on.
The nut is also used to remove the adaptor.