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who can do a internal 7/8 13 sapline in the end of a 13/8 x13 inch shaft for a pump

jim fuchs

Cast Iron
Joined
May 5, 2003
Location
iowa
hi guys , im trying to fix a old skid loader to help with my on gong cleanup of my shop that was flooded in 08 bad . its a 13/8 od by 13 inchs long 4140 shaft i need a 7/8x13 spline in the end of it to drive a hyd pump . who can i have this done at . it will be about 11/2 deep . jim
 
7/8 spline

i thought about doing that but this case 1737 has a pump mounted on the side of a gear box ,i thought about boreing it out and plug welding a sleave . but i would only have 1/8 wall on shaft and spline im thinking that would not work pump is 18 gal a min pull a good load on it the shaft now is soft . i guess this is a prob. area with this loader i found out after the sale . i bought it to move the heavey stuff around but got it home unloaded it and the gear box went bad .. nice guy ha .... called him back he says its yours fix it ....i can make a new shaft but i need the spline to run the pump .
 

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ok guys if i made a spline with a wire to have the shaft plunge burned what does it have to look like . does it need a hole in it for flush . this is blind bot i can bore the insde of sline then burn the spline . how would the flushing get out sucked from center . whats the best thing to make it out of ,steel copper brass ...who could burn it for me jim shaft is 11x 1.375od a2 hard or soft . with a 7/8x13 spline
 
If i was doing it , i would bore the minor dia. I would then machine 2 or 3 graphite electrodes using an indexing head on the mill . The flush method on a blind hole works great just using a presurized center flush hole .
 
would copper work better than carbon. do i make the noid size on size or smaller than shaft . how much do you allow for over burn ,how much noid wear on copper . on a 1.5 deep cut how long should it be ... jim
 
Before you give up on boreing and welding an insert (cause the wall would be just 1/8 inch), take a good look at PTO shafts, your vehicle's driveshaft, etc.

You can also drill a holes through the wall, and weld through that area.

By the way, is the part available, or obsolete? What's the price, if available?

That shaft is transmitting 31 hp at 18 gpm, if 3000 psi.

My guess the problem has been quality control on that part.... not so much an 'impossible' load.
 
1800.00 for shaft i told him i dont need to buy a new box .... may try the insert and weld
im going to cut the shaft shorter and then make a flanged insert 1.093 id that way the weld will be 140 thick on flange . should work will press fit in shaft . insert in shaft soft then hardeen the a2 insert and shaft then weld insert on flange with ss tig rod then draw back at 800 deg . to make it tuff . hope it works ok jim
 
For the amount of material that you'll be removing and being 4140 , carbon would work just fine , the only reason i said i would use carbon is for the ease of machining and i dont have a wire machine to make the copper trod you were refering to . I build plastic injection molds and the only time i burn with copper is when burning subgates .As far as the length of the trod , you could just make it a 1/4 of an inch longer than finish depth . When i burn cavities and other details i typically use .01 overburn on really small details i use .005 and on larger burns .015 . Im using a mitsubishi 3 axis cnc burner so those are orbit specs which would be double when making an internal spline trode , all your diameter dimensions would be double the above specs undersized . IE a .01 orbit trod would move .01 in both directions so the trod would be .02 undersized.
 
so the trod would be .020 smaller in all areas .the trod orbits around how does that work cutting a spline . jim
 
i would buy a splined coupler and machine the body to approximately 1/8 in of body thickness and then machine the shaft bore to several thou. less than the coupler od. you could leave the machining rough to add some friction interference and then cool the coupler in a freezer and heat the shaft in some boiling oil. next with out too much wait time press the 2 pieces together. and for some added security drill a couple of 1/2 in holes in the shaft and plug weld with some iron cored wire.
 








 
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