Wiggler vs Center finder?

[AD Design]

Also, don't run it too fast. Didn't happen to me either... Nope. *Just looking for my wiggler ball that broke off...*.

I'm going to presume that you found it/them. Due to some of the recent "discussions" it takes a set of them (big ones) to volunteer as a moderator here.

 

[eKretz]

I'm going to presume that you found it/them. Due to some of the recent "discussions" it takes a set of them (big ones) to volunteer as a moderator here.

Haha, nice one.

 

[dkmc]

I have both edge finders and wigglers and use a wiggler 98% of the time in the last 40+ years.
Post 24 below reminded me I recently got a co-axial indicator, have been wanting one for decades. Used it on one job so far. Very easy to indicate center of a bore, almost feels like cheating....

 

[Spruewell]

for finding edges, I use the edge finder. For finding bores and bosses, I use a co-axial indicator. I only use scribe lines for work done in a drill press. I have never used my wiggler in the shop.

 

[CAMasochism]

Do people work to scribed lines anymore? I might scribe lines to be sure I'm not making some dumb-ass mistake by having a dial off by a turn or something, but most things need accuracy well beyond scribed lines.

There's a part that runs through here on occasion that is easier to setup and run on a manual mill by kicking the head over rather than trying to rig up some fancy jaws to go on a chuck to grab on to a very irregular surface and hoping it doesn't move. In this case we still do the old fashioned way with scribed lines and eying the position to drill the hole.

 

[sfriedberg]

I frequently lay out one-off parts by hand. I figure this is good to about 0.01 on a regular basis. If I need precision and/or repeatable positioning on, for example, the drill press, I clean two sides of the part, then use stacked blocks between the part and locators clamped to the table. The limiting factor is then drill deflection, which can be minimized by starting with a stout center drill.
At the high school shop, for speed we have been having students touch off the sides of a part directly with the endmill they are going to cut with. I did some tests and this seems to be repeatable to better than 0.005 if they have any sense of touch in their hands at all. Once they have an edge located, this mill has a DRO so they usually don't have to pick up other features directly. We do have an assortment of other edge finding tools, including a Heimer 3D taster, but no wiggler at the highschool.

 

[Conrad Hoffman]

I have a wiggler, edge finder, toolmaker buttons, and two different chairs. With any of these I'll set "0" and go back for a confirmation reading. But when using a wiggler with the ball ends resist the temptation to have your fingers close by to reset the device. That ball hurts when it flips into orbit at speed. Not that this happened to me of course.....

I've thought about a "chair". The real Moore version is crazy expensive for what it is. Probably a good DIY project if I ever get time.

 

[TGTool]

I've thought about a "chair". The real Moore version is crazy expensive for what it is. Probably a good DIY project if I ever get time.

I made mine in trade school. There are a couple different ways to design it, but like a sine bar, the more forgiving designs let you take second (or third or fourth) tries at hitting the mark. My instructor, a former toolmaker, said that the correct gap was when you could only just barely get the gauge block to enter the gap. If it went in easily it was too wide. And of course if you can't get it started in, you know what that means.

 

[AD Design]

I've thought about a "chair". The real Moore version is crazy expensive for what it is. Probably a good DIY project if I ever get time.

It wasn't so very expensive in the 80's (or so the 80's price seems now) but it does have limitations. I only drag either model out when I've ground top and sides of the work. When I first got one I dragged it out to see how much more accuracy I got over an edge finder on a milled piece, which you can imagine. I was on the jig grinder a lot back then so it made more sense to have them. With the vague notion of accuracy a turret mill produces I seldom found much use for them outside of a jig grinder/borer. Still a nice little project to do for yourself and handy when location from an edge is critical. Post photos if you make one or both of the different types. I like seeing the work of others, especially when it's better than my own work.

 

[Cole2534]

Also, don't run it too fast. Didn't happen to me either... Nope. *Just looking for my wiggler ball that broke off...*.

The tip of an edge finder becomes a rocket as it approaches 10,000rpm. I know this to be factual.

 

[Sharps1874]

So nice to see a post from Forrest Addy again. One of the most competent and decent contributors ever on this site. Kim

 

[TGTool]

Shop made edge finder (toolmaker's chair)

Two piece construction means you can set both parts up in line on the grinder and keep tweaking the slot or the mating surfaces until you get the right dimension. Small notch at the inside corner done after assembly. I guess if you have a depth mic that reliably reads to tenths you could avoid taking the parts off the chuck and putting them back with all the attendant possibilities for error. Otherwise it's an exercise in good technique.