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Wiring Woos!

MomoDoG

Plastic
Joined
Feb 25, 2024
Location
San Diego
9 pole)First may I say that I am new to this site but not new to machining. I am not hobbyist. I just sold my South Bend 10 inch and bought a SB 13 inch. I was told that it had a Craftsman 3/4 HP 110/220 single phase motor wired at 220. And before buying I started it and ran some test to make sure all things worked (forward and reverse and feeds etc.) When I got it home and in its resting place. I plugged it into my 220 outlet and it started and went much the same tests. I want to connect a longer cable wire to it so I opened the Cutler Hammer(9 pole) "O" drum controller and was amazed to find that the white wire was grounded, the black wire went to the switch and the green was wire nutted to the blue wire. If the white and black are hot how can the white wire be grounded? Then I opened the wire housing on the motor and it is not wired according to the diagram on the motor. ( please see pictures )
My question is should I leave it alone and use it or try and rewire the motor to the diagram and try to rewire the switch. I have a very limited knowledge of electrics and would probably need the forums help.
Many thanks in advance for suggestions and or help.
Alan
 

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As a bare minimum use a meter and check the ground pin on the male cord end and see if it is connected to the metal on the machine. Do the same for the two other prongs.
I bought a welder and it had the cord wired wrong so the case was hot. Their 240 outlet must have had one hot lead and the ground plug reversed. I could barley use it until I switched the leads and was using 240 instead of 120 input on a 240 only machine.
Bill D
 
Hard to tell what is going on with wiring at the motor, but note that red and black wires need to be brought out to the reversing drum switch, so that might be part of why wiring there does not look right. Agree on re-wiring at incoming power, and probably the plug.

Was checking over wiring last month on a single phase machine, they used white wire for ground, with a piece of green tape on it, then used the green wire for a hot wire, wtf?:skep:
 
I can't really tell how it's currently wired but you have clear instructions on how to wire it, either for 110 or 220. I would definitely disconnect the current cord connections and go from there. Even though I have lots of 220 access I would probably go 110 for flexibility and resale.
 
I suggest assuming everything is AFU, and just rewiring it per the instructions.
First, it sounds as if that is a good assumption, and second, you won't be guessing about anything, you will KNOW.

Using 120V sounds like a decent plan. Some drum switches are easier to use at 120V than others. There is a sticky covering some typical connections.
 
Close investigation of the (excellent) pictures suggest it was indeed wired for 240. I believe the blue taped wire , was an incoming hot leg possibly originally green and is tied to the blue wire in the peckerhead. Probably the former owner did not know any better and carried that color over to the SJ line cord. You may discover the black and green wires in that cord are the hots and white tied to the green ground screw in the plug.

The drum switch is set up to interchange red and black motor wires for reversing the motor. The drum switch is also set up to leave one of the incoming lines always hot so the motor and all wiring will have voltage on it even when the switch is off and motor not running. So take care to disconnect (unplug) the power wen doing any work on this.
 








 
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