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WTB Sjogren 5C Speed Chuck. D1-6 Lathe mount AND Hardinge Taper Nose

Buick Power

Plastic
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Hi, looking for that needle in the haystack in good used condition before I pull the trigger on new. Thank you - Dave
 
Extremely rare chuck for sure. I had one with D1-5 back twenty years ago. That version will be marked Model 5CAX (X means taper nose). Can't recall seeing another with the Hardinge taper or the threaded nose version (no X).

Larry

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Hi, looking for that needle in the haystack in good used condition before I pull the trigger on new. Thank you - Dave
I have a really nice one available........I'm not going to let it go cheap!

Kevin
Extremely rare chuck for sure. I had one with D1-5 back twenty years ago. That version will be marked Model 5CAX (X means taper nose). Can't recall seeing another with the Hardinge taper or the threaded nose version (no X).

Larry

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Larry,

The one I have is the first one I have ever come across in all the years of looking at these chucks.

Kevin
 
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Not sure I understand why. Sure a 5C from D1-6 or whatever, but why a Hardinge taper way out there?
The duplicate of a Hardinge spindle nose taper or thread is to allow the use of Hardinge 5C step chuck closers, dead length stops or similar tooling. I would not use it to mount a jaw chuck or faceplate, but it could be done.

Larry
 
The spindle adapter is removable on the 5C Sjogren. My 5C had an L1 spindle adapter on it when I bought it. I bought a D1-6 adapter and machined it to fit. I did the same thing with my 3J.

Idk if they’re different but I’ll snap a few pictures of mine so you know what to look for.
 
The spindle adapter is removable on the 5C Sjogren. My 5C had an L1 spindle adapter on it when I bought it. I bought a D1-6 adapter and machined it to fit. I did the same thing with my 3J.

Idk if they’re different but I’ll snap a few pictures of mine so you know what to look for.
Some Sjogren chucks have separate adapters and some do not. As I recall, the camlock chucks do not have a separate adapter, but the long taper and threaded ones are separate. I have a 2J chuck that had an L1 adapter that I replaced with a semi-finished L00 adapter. The D1-5 5CAX chuck I had had the camlock feature machined directly into the rear portion of the chuck, which is visible in the photo in post #2.

Larry
 
I also discovered the internals vary from model to model of the same collet size. I was given a worn out D1-6 3J model, it was too far gone and rusted to resuscitate. So I bought a D1-8 3J from a PM member thinking I would swap the internals into the D1-6 body. Turned out everything was similar but nothing interchanged, not even the handwheel. I did adapt the D1-8 to the D1-6 spindle by bolting it to a D1-6 faceplate using the 3 D1-8 camlok holes for bolts along with a bunch of fitting. The Hardinge catalog specifies that you need to order parts using the number of teeth on each gear, not just by model, so things might have varied over time.
 
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The NO5CA I bought had a separate adapter, i.e. plain back. The 4 socket head cap screws hold the chuck to the back plate. I made mine D1-6 to fit my lathe with an added Set-Tru feature.
 
I also discovered the internals vary from model to model of the same collet size. I was given a worn out D1-6 3J model, it was too far gone and rusted to resuscitate. So I bought a D1-8 3J from a PM member thinking I would swap the internals into the D1-6 body. Turned out everything was similar but nothing interchanged, not even the handwheel. I did adapt the D1-8 to the D1-6 spindle by bolting it to a D1-6 faceplate using the 3 D1-8 camlok holes for bolts along with a bunch of fitting. The Jacobs catalogs specifies that you need to order parts using the number of teeth on each gear, not just by model, so things might have varied over time.

Oh god! We both would have been better off if I'd just shitcanned that thing! Damn I'm sorry lol.
 
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The NO5CA I bought had a separate adapter, i.e. plain back. The 4 socket head cap screws hold the chuck to the back plate. I made mine D1-6 to fit my lathe with an added Set-Tru feature.
FWIW All the ones I've handled ran out at the front taper for the collet. Disassembling cleaning etc made no difference on any. So on my 2, 5C and 3J, I hard turned the collet taper with CBN. Now they repeat within .0001 when removed and replaced on the spindle taper and the accuracy is as good for parallelism and concentricity as the collet used . I assume it was from wear on the collet taper.
 
FWIW All the ones I've handled ran out at the front taper for the collet. Disassembling cleaning etc made no difference on any. So on my 2, 5C and 3J, I hard turned the collet taper with CBN. Now they repeat within .0001 when removed and replaced on the spindle taper and the accuracy is as good for parallelism and concentricity as the collet used . I assume it was from wear on the collet taper.

Yeah, not surprising to see a little here and there. That's why I wanted to just go straight to adjustability. Now and then it's handy to be able to turn a little eccentric too. I think I only left 1/32" or so adjustability. Also nice if I ever move it to another machine, don't need to worry if there's any slight difference in taper runout/seating. I don't think I've moved it since the initial dial-in, it's been dead nuts.
 
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