Super glue not drying

[MikeK88]

So I needed to take some more off my steel collar (discussed in another recent thread). One inch diameter, one inch long, 5/8" bore. I ran out of the usual super glue I use for holding a part on a spigot for lathe operations. I found a pack of this on the shelf that I don't ever remember buying, I think someone must have given it to me: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-15187-12-Pack/dp/B000LGPD64

Tubes were still sealed. It's now 10 minutes after applying and it hasn't set/dried. Sure smells like cyano, but still runny. What the? I could use high strength threadlock, but I don't want to wait that long. Am I using the wrong stuff? Where's that hardhat guy hanging from a girder when you need him?

 

[Superbowl]

Am I using the wrong stuff? Where's that hardhat guy hanging from a girder when you need him?

He used that crap and fell to his death.

 

[Strostkovy]

I had a similar problem. If you have very thick superglue it will separate into runny stuff and not runny stuff. The runny stuff doesn't harden.

I used some to hold circuit boards into a potting tray and all of the thin gunk floated to the top and had a weird reaction with the epoxy.

 

[MikeK88]

I had a similar problem. If you have very thick superglue it will separate into runny stuff and not runny stuff. The runny stuff doesn't harden.

I used some to hold circuit boards into a potting tray and all of the thin gunk floated to the top and had a weird reaction with the epoxy.

Interesting. So these tubes may have been sitting for a while and separated. I can sacrifice one of the tubes and see if any thick stuff squeezes out.

Would shaking the tube remix it, or do you think that's pointless?

Worth noting that when I first pierced the tube to use it, some squirted onto my hand but didn't bond the skin.

 

[guythatbrews]

Why don't you chuck it and indicate the face true. Then face it. Pretty standard procedure.

 

[tnmgcarbide]

you may not know cyano-acryltes ' power

super glue + baking soda = instant concrete . saturate w/ super glue...dust w/ baking
soda until it stops looking clear

 

[MikeK88]

Why don't you chuck it and indicate the face true. Then face it. Pretty standard procedure.

Because that doesn't produce a face that's square to the bore. Turning a spigot for this purpose is pretty standard.

 

[MikeK88]

you may not know cyano-acryltes ' power

super glue + baking soda = instant concrete . saturate w/ super glue...dust w/ baking
soda until it stops looking clear

Would that help the superglue that's *in* the joint? I turned a spigot, applied super glue to both surfaces of the spigot, and pressed the collar on.

If it hasn't cured by the time I'm done with dinner I'll head out for some new glue. By the way, all of the tubes in the pack sound very liquid when shaken...like not a little bit of liquid but all of it.

 

[tnmgcarbide]

you can cure this crusty epoxy-type stuff by adding baking soda to c-a until
its cures in less than a minute. dusting your cracked joint w / b' soda

 

[guythatbrews]

Because that doesn't produce a face that's square to the bore. Turning a spigot for this purpose is pretty standard.

Wait...

So I needed to take some more off my steel collar

Take more off implies the part was finished, but too thick. The assumption is at least one face is true to the bore, if it's finished. Therefore, indicate the finished face true and face. Et voila! Still true.

Gluing a part to a mandrel is sometimes done, but it's far from a common thing when a chuck will do just as well. If you woulda chucked it, it would have been done well before finding the glue and waitung 10 minutes to clean uo the glue mess.

 

[dstig]

Cyanoacrylate is anaerobic - it needs the absence of air to cure. The stuff out in the open will eventually cure, but not great. That is why it works so great in tight joints to fix the broken handle on a coffee cup, for example.

 

[tnmgcarbide]

i disagree, c-a is not a-e . pour some on your fingers and tell me how a-e it is .

on your skin, it activates by moisture.

none i know made from loc-tite or super glue are different .

pour an 1/2 ounce of c-a onto 1/4 cup of baking soda ...
i predict it will be a stone in less than 2 minutes

 

[MikeK88]

Wait...



Take more off implies the part was finished, but too thick. The assumption is at least one face is true to the bore, if it's finished. Therefore, indicate the finished face true and face. Et voila! Still true.

Gluing a part to a mandrel is sometimes done, but it's far from a common thing when a chuck will do just as well. If you woulda chucked it, it would have been done well before finding the glue and waitung 10 minutes to clean uo the glue mess.

Putting it in the chuck will not make the bore run true. If I just put it in the chuck it will definitely show runout. Guaranteed.

 

[dstig]

i disagree, c-a is not a-e . pour some on your fingers and tell me how a-e it is .

on your skin, it activates by moisture.

none i know made from loc-tite or super glue are different .

pour an 1/2 ounce of c-a onto 1/4 cup of baking soda ...
i predict it will be a stone in less than 2 minutes

You can disagree, but the chemistry says it is an anaerobic curing adhesive. That doesn't change and is well known. Spread it on your fingers and it stays wet. Squeeze another finger on top of that and Uh oh! Because you removed the air. That it reacts with baking soda is a separate issue. I am talking about the adhesive by itself.

 

[guythatbrews]

Putting it in the chuck will not make the bore run true. If I just put it in the chuck it will definitely show runout. Guaranteed.

Maybe you don't know what "indicate true" means.

You are correct if you just chuck it up it will definitely show runout. That is unless you just get lucky. So, using a dial test indicator (DTI) you check the axial runout of the chucked part. Then the part is tapped dead true. Face it off and it will be as true to the bore as it was before. Guaranteed!

This is just they way it's done. If you are making more than a few you might instead use soft jaws and get very good and fast results. Or a collet for smaller stuff.

Can you imagine gluing a 20" collar to a mandrel to face it off? It'd take lots of glue and a tight ballon knot. Or maybe a glued ballon knot. BTW, maybe spigot is a regional thing. Never heard it in a machine shop round here. We say spud or mandrel.

 

[MikeK88]

Well, it only took about two hours, but I checked it after dinner and it was solid. So that's done.

Thanks all. I'll have to label the box "Takes two hours, dammit!"

 

[sfriedberg]

Cyanoacrylates are anaerobic and moisture-catalyzed. So both of those things are true, not exclusive of one another. You can stop arguing that particular battle because you are both right.

And the "trick" with CA glue and baking soda is not a magic solution. If most or all of the actual working component of the adhesive has separated out, dusting baking soda on it is just going to give you wet baking soda. Also, the penetration of fresh CA into a pile of baking soda is extremely shallow. Deeper than case hardening, but usually not much more than 1/8". Penetration of baking soda into a puddle of CA is essentially zero.

 

[tnmgcarbide]

There's no trick and I'm sure you understand you have to get the proportions right they can go either way. But for a 1980s game changer this was fantastic. Super glue had just become a big deal in the late '970s but when you could add filler to make it like an epoxy and freeze up solid it was serious .Andy would dry and cure instantly. Sure there was a spray but that didn't make it into instant bondo.. just better for model planes.

 

[MikeK88]

There's no trick and I'm sure you understand you have to get the proportions right they can go either way. But for a 1980s game changer this was fantastic. Super glue had just become a big deal in the late '970s but when you could add filler to make it like an epoxy and freeze up solid it was serious .Andy would dry and cure instantly. Sure there was a spray but that didn't make it into instant bondo.. just better for model planes.

Proportions? I used the glue as is, not with baking soda. My basement is at 65F, so maybe that contributed a bit. I remembered that my neighbor was the one who gave it to me, so the pack was only one or two years old but I think she had it stored in her basement. The inside of the clear plastic case was slightly frosted from one of the previously used tubes outgassing.

To be honest I have always hated super glue. I had the stuff in the lipstick tube promoted with the guy hanging from the girder, when it first got promoted on TV. I think that was Krazy Glue. I was never able to get it to glue anything ever, other than my skin. It was only in very recent years that I learned of it used to hold parts in the lathe. In those few instances I had used a different brand, maybe Scotch or 3M, that was in gel form. It was decent. Definitely not instant. And the heat generated from lathe operations softened it a couple times, to my dismay.

The stuff I used yesterday, "The Original Super Glue", was extremely liquid when applied. Like more liquid than water, it seemed. When it finally dried it was very solid. I had to heat up the part to get it to release from the spigot.

I made another collar today - to shoot for better dimensions - and didn't bother with the glue. This time I heat shrank it to the spigot.

 

[MikeK88]

i disagree, c-a is not a-e . pour some on your fingers and tell me how a-e it is .

on your skin, it activates by moisture.

none i know made from loc-tite or super glue are different .

pour an 1/2 ounce of c-a onto 1/4 cup of baking soda ...
i predict it will be a stone in less than 2 minutes

A quick dip in the googler shows that's true. Cyano molecules start to link up when in contact with water. Threadlocks are the ones that are anaerobic.