Thanks. I actually started making it but as I don't need it right now I put it aside. Pictures and measurements would be great because I don't actually know what it looked like and was trying to take measurements from the back of the ways while squeezing into the narrow space between the bed and...
Geared head or flat belt? I'm looking for a taper attachment for my 15" flat belt Sidney. I have part of it...but not the bracket that holds it to the bed. Never having seen one I don't know what other parts may be missing but I can take a picture if needed.
The "unsafe" early 03's is something of a shibboleth. There were some problems during WWI and after the war there was an official investigation that included extensive testing. It was found that the cracked or blown receivers were attributable to some improperly loaded war-time ammunition. If I...
The first M1903's made by Remington & Smith Corona were identical to the WWI version. The A3 variation came a little later and was a simplified version, dispensing with the fairly elaborate windage adjustable rear sight as well as some other minor changes. It also used a slightly different stock...
It's amazing that Remington has lasted as long as it has. It has a long history of incompetent management. It went bankrupt for the first time in 1888 and was bought by Oliver Winchester and Marcellus Hartley. Hartley became a very wealthy man selling Remington products while Remington failed...
The reference to bronze bearings I was thinking of is from a listing of specifications for many American cars in the back of a 2-volume 1909 book...one of the many such manuals in that period. Nearly all the specs say "Parson's Bronze". I've found advertisements for it but I've never been able...
You don't say what engine you are working on but they are not all the same. A few cars are amenable to using inserts...those with very stiff crankshafts like the Franklin (7 main bearings)....most cars had fewer and some had only two. The crankshafts on early cars flex much more than later...
It's very well worth saving and there are plenty of members of this forum that use machines that old regularly...I guess our main focus is urging you to not spend too much on it. Getting these old machines up and running is an adventure but often includes expenses you can't anticipate.
A few things to keep in mind...
There are very few "collectors" for items that you need a forklift to move.
Big lathes are worth less than small ones, precisely because of that. A similar, but smaller (like could be dismantled and carried in a pickup truck) will be both easier to sell and...
All my cutter blades had a wooden carrier they bolted to. You had to be careful taking it out of the cutter and bolting it to the carrier but there was no particular danger in moving it around. I think I still have one or two of those.
Some photos...
The part in its current state mounted on a fixture I made to mill it. I stopped on this about 3 months ago to work on my house...
Also, the part mounted in the hub. The axles have square ends and this is what dr4ives the rear wheels. It's all held together by the hub caps (which...
The truth is I care how it's done. I don't have CNC. I did mill a trial lhole but I did that with a dial indicator on the table of the mill. It was a very tedious process and one slip or inattention and the part would be ruined. I do my milling on a Brown & Sharpe 2H horizontal with a vertical...
I'm a long time participant in the Antique Machinery sub forum and I've had very good luck doing business with forum members. Here's the issue...
I have made two pieces for the rear hubs of the car I'm restoring...they are cross shaped and have a 1-1/8 square hole in the center with 1/2" radius...
Here's the replacement drill press. As currently set up, it has only one speed since the motor is attached to the base where the lower step pulley was. The mount for the step pulley was badly broken at some time in the past so, although I have the 4-step pulley, I can't mount it. For the time...
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