10K largest turning size

[intrepid]

I need to true up a 10.5" diameter plate that is 1/2" thick and drill a 1/4" hole in the center. I only have a 9" South Bend. My friend has a 10K about an hour away that I can use but he is out town for business until May. I can use his lathe but before making the trip I was wondering if the 10K can handke the 1/2" over 10"?

 

[SteveM]

Catalog lists it at 10" over the bed, 9-15/16" over the saddle wings.

 

[intrepid]

Well, I guess that answers that! Thanks SteveM

 

[SteveM]

There's always a little wiggle room. They don't want someone coming back and saying "you said this could turn 10", and it can only turn 9.95", so it's still possible, but someone with an actual lathe would need to let us know.

My 9a looks like it could be 9-1/4, but then you wouldn't be able to get the carriage under it.


Steve

 

[intrepid]

Correct. That is what I was hoping.

 

[mattthemuppet]

how would you hold onto the plate? Glue it to a face plate? What are you trying to true up - the face or the edge? To get to the edge you would probably need to use a left hand boring bar to get enough reach from the carriage and get the tool far enough from the centerline. Truing the face is a little easier to finagle.

 

[intrepid]

I want to true up the edge. I can bolt the stock from the back to a face plate.

 

[stephen thomas]

SB listing looks correct.
Mine might be 10-1/16" to the closest way (the TS flat) And my bed was planed and scraped, so it *might* be a tinch closer than factory. But you are not going to swing 10.5" without building a riser block for the headstock.

From memory, when i fully machined the Metal Lathe Accessories T-slot face plate on mine, which is just over 8-1/2" dia, it was a stretch to do the rim and required a heavy offset bar.

Can't you just bolt it to a rotary table and do it on the mill?
or, Chuck it in the mill spindle (like SB shows in their literature) and turn it with a lathe tool in the vise?
or, Use an offset boring head in the mill, and OD turn it with the part clamped to the table or vise?

smt

 

[intrepid]

SB listing looks correct.
Mine might be 10-1/16" to the closest way (the TS flat) And my bed was planed and scraped, so it *might* be a tinch closer than factory. But you are not going to swing 10.5" without building a riser block for the headstock.

From memory, when i fully machined the Metal Lathe Accessories T-slot face plate on mine, which is just over 8-1/2" dia, it was a stretch to do the rim and required a heavy offset bar.

Can't you just bolt it to a rotary table and do it on the mill?
or, Chuck it in the mill spindle (like SB shows in their literature) and turn it with a lathe tool in the vise?
or, Use an offset boring head in the mill, and OD turn it with the part clamped to the table or vise?

smt

Using my turntable on the mill is how I finally got it done. I should have take a video or photos. However, it was going better than I expected and just kept going. Anyway, I got it done.

 

[SteveM]

Can't you just bolt it to a rotary table and do it on the mill?

Or, if a mill isn't handy bolt the rotary table down to the lathe bed, shimmed up so that the part is on (or close) the spindle centerline. Precision isn't important on the height - you just want to be sure the endmill covers it all.

Put an end mill in the spindle and rotate the work around.

Steve