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HDPE or UHMW for well cover?

Absent scrappies, stainless could be a good solution.
The plastics look to be fast, simple, and good for another 30 yrs without shedding frass and providing insect haven.

Oh, look! another squirrel just ran by!
So i'll report closer to fall when i will have to do the deed for winter.
Was hoping to learn plastic welding in the interim but will explore other forums on that topic.

smt

The only plastic welding I do is the kind where you melt in a stainless mesh/screen, then cover over it with a layer of plastic. I've fixed a million things with that method and it works fricking great.
 
Re: plastic welding -- I have a Laramy Products unit that uses low-pressure (3 psi) compressed air passing through the welder over the heating unit. I have tried it on a couple of occasions, not enough to develop any skill (at all), but it certainly works. Be prepared to devote some practice time to get good at it. I am not familiar with the units that have a built-in fan to blow air through the heater cavity, but if those actually work, they might be more convenient in handling with only one line going to the welder (power) instead of two. If you end up buying something, in my observational experience, having a "speed-tip" that guides the rod into the weld zone makes life easier, once you have the basic skill set in hand.
 
I fold polycarbonate on my 4’ folder, and given the amount of scrap screens from shops about it usually cheap, stands the UV ok, windows in my digger are polycarbonate and 20 years old.
Mark
 
Here's all-heart redwood framing and cedar board sheathing.

DSC_0213.JPGDSC_0212.JPG
It does not owe me anything after 30 years, but going forward i'm planning just a flat or slightly peaked cap that is relatively easy to lift by myself for inspection and maintenance. The artisan well/spring silts up every few years, and has to be de-silted around the underground siphon leading down to the tank/man access seen below it.

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It has good production - middle of summer and the 1200 gal masonry tank was empty early this week. After de-silting the spring and reaming the pipe to clear the clog, the tank filled back up to near the overflow in less than 48 hrs.
There is no road access, and the bank is about 10 ft up, but it is this close:
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Hence concerns about scrappies & in general keeping the profile down. As mentioned it is 1/4 mile distant from house, and not visible.

Mark - since i've been cooking acrylic in the oven lately, the less brittle poly carbonate interested me. But i think light would encourage weed growth inside - a regular terrarium! It would be easy to fab as you mention, and no doubt could be painted.

At this point, it is probably down to whether i luck into an appropriate size stainless counter top during a run to Shulman's scrap yard & disguise it somehow, or get around to ordering structural HDPE sheet by winter. :)

I still have not learned anything about good/bad/average/cheap/expensive plastic welding kit. On the homebuilt forum where plastic welding reference to fuel tanks was first mentioned "by others" I asked specifically about kit and supplies. (& refrained from initially mentioning my own purpose this time) One person immediately headed off on a tangent that implies i'm an idiot for even considering plastic welding, especially for a gas tank..... One guy did post an informative video about building a water tank for an RV.



smt
 
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I still have not learned anything about good/bad/average/cheap/expensive plastic welding kit. On the homebuilt forum where plastic welding reference to fuel tanks was first mentioned "by others" I asked specifically about kit and supplies. (& refrained from initially mentioning my own purpose this time) One person immediately headed off on a tangent that implies i'm an idiot for even considering plastic welding, especially for a gas tank..... One guy did post an informative video about building a water tank for an RV.



smt

Yeah that sounds about right for the internet...
🤣
 
I know you weren't looking for alternatives to welding plastic but we recently used some treated wood that isn't toxic. It's pine treated with acetic acid basically vinegar. It's got a 50 year rot guarantee 25 year below ground. You could use fiberglass or PC roofing panels on it which could keep the weight down. The downside is it is expensive however the way cedar prices have gone it's similar to clear cedar. Smells like fries or salt and vinegar chips when you cut it. Not sure about local dealers really close to you but one of my suppliers sells it here in Ontario.
 
Thank you for the link to Accoya wood - I was not familiar with it, and am happy to continue at some level to keep up with the industry though less likely to do larger exterior projects these days. The developments in modified lumber continue to impress.

King starboard looks appropriate for my current interest, and they have some useful fabrication videos.
Informationwise, this is heading in the right direction. :)

Are you able to talk about the welding process and equipment?

Thank you!
smt
 
Are you able to talk about the welding process and equipment?
I have a Leister hot air welder with digital temperature control and a speed nozzle on it. It was about $600.

I'm not familiar with the cheaper options like Harbor Freight, but I would get a speed nozzle whatever brand of welder you get. I makes things very easy.

It's much easier to learn than metal welding. Run a few beads on some scrap and you'll be good to go in no time.
 








 
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