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How does magnetism work / Pinball solenoid question

I have never designed a solenoid, but working from first principles I see this.

First, you do not state why you want a lighter plunger. From the discussion I can assume it is to get a faster motion from the overall assembly. But a plain and complete statement of what you want and why is the first step in any design process. That should be done.

1. With just a coil, as your photo seems to show, you have a coil with a hole in it. The magnetic plunger does try to center itself inside that coil when it is energized. Why? There is no stationary frame that the plunger is attracted to. What is happening is the magnetic lines of force are traveling through the plunger and they want to become as short as possible. So the plunger seeks a centered position where this is true. And this is stronger if more of the magnetic field passes through it.

2. Magnetic materials have a saturation point where they are as magnetized as is possible. They are saturated with those lines of force and more will pass around the magnetic material, not through it. So, for a given current in the coil, there is a certain volume, a certain cross sectional area which will contain all the lines of force being generated by the current/coil. If you want more force, then you will need a larger volume/cross section of the magnetic material as well as more current. A hollow tube would need to have a larger outside diameter if it were to have the same cross sectional area as a solid. When the cross sectional areas as well as the lengths are the same, then the volume and hence the weight or mass of the two plunger will be the same. It would seem that you do not gain anything from using a hollow plunger. If you want less mass, then just use a smaller OD.

3. If you use a hollow tube with the same mass, then the OD will be larger and then each turn of the coil will be LONGER. So more copper will be needed for the same amount of current. Remember that the magnetic field of a coil is primarily dependent on the number of turns and the current. Conversely, if you use a hollow plunger with the same coil you should expect less force and probably slower operation.

4. A further effect of a larger OD is that the larger length of each turn of the wire will mean more resistance per turn and you may need to step up to a larger wire gauge to maintain the same current.

All of the above seems to argue against making the plunger of a solenoid hollow. Once you determine the amount of force you need, then that would determine the cross sectional area of the plunger as well as the number of turns and the current through them.

In the above, it is assumed that the length of the plunger is roughly the same as the length of the hole in the coil. This would provide a more or less ideal pattern for the lines of force to pass through the hole (and plunger) before fanning out to wrap around the outside of the coil. If the plunger is significantly shorter, then the force would not be any greater after the trailing end of the plunger enters the hole and the centering action would lessen, producing a shorter stroke. On the other hand, if the plunger were significantly longer than the hole in the coil, then the force would reach a maximum when the end of the plunger reaches the far end of the hole in the coil and again would be reduced as both ends of the plunger stick out.

I suspect that the OEM solenoids have aluminum extensions because aluminum is non-magnetic and this allows the magnetic plunger to be just as long as the hole, thereby producing the maximum force at all points in it's travel.

If you want a one piece plunger, including the extension, then it would be best to lighten it by making the EXTENSION hollow instead of the main, functioning part of the plunger. But perhaps a better idea for reducing the weight would be to turn the extension to a smaller diameter. I don't know your dimensions, but if the main part of the plunger is 0.5" in diameter then the extension would be around 0.2" in diameter. It could have a larger tang at the end for the attachment point. I would not use stainless at all unless as a replacement for the aluminum extension and then I would select a non-magnetic alloy. And if you do it with one piece, be careful not to introduce a stress riser at the junction of the two ODs. In other words, use a generous fillet.

In support of the above is the fact that I have never seen a solenoid with a hollow plunger. The companies that make them day in and day out must know something. In short, I do not think you are right about using a hollow plunger.



This is a typical solenoid from a pinball machine...when power is supplied to the coil, a magnetic field is created and the rod (plunger) travels in a linear manner to perform a task such as moving the flipper.

The plunger, of course, must have magnetic properties and is almost always made of steel.

I'm doing a small job making some plungers that have 'custom' dimensions. I can make these of solid steel rod or steel tube.


I think two things....

1) The plunger will travel if it's solid steel, but it will also travel just as effectively if it is a hollow tube....the amount of mass is not a significant factor in the ability of the plunger to travel.

2) A hollow tube of steel will travel as effectively as a solid rod of steel...but it will move more quickly and with less 'demand' on the coil as it has a lower mass/inertia.


My question is...am I right in thinking that?


View attachment 347212
 
I'll have a chance to test this in the machine on Wednesday.....

The diameter of the plunger is fixed, more or less, as the coil is fixed. No way to make the plunger OD significantly smaller or larger.

The original plunger is hollow, at least most of the way. The end is solid for about 3/4", the rest of the 2" length is hollow.
 
Pinball solenoids run at high current for short duration, which means you'll have a surprisingly high magnetic field strength. If you reduce the cross section of the steel slug, you increase the flux density and may run into saturation, where the magnetic field doesn't bother to affect the steel anymore (simplified explanation).

Stainless steel, even if magnetic, has a much lower saturation and would be similar to hollow steel.

Even having steel above the slug will affect how the solenoid moves the slug. It will try to pull deeper by may also pull slower or with more or less force.

Consider just making the aluminum part out of nonmagnetic stainless instead. You could thread or braze them together for a stronger connection.

He could also hollow out the stem of the stainless part to reduce weight, with a matching tenon on the steel plunger. The finished part would look solid.
 
Before recommending what material to use and if a solid or hollow plunger is better, we need to know if the solenoid is running on DC or AC current? Although a AC solenoid will have lower current consumption in a steady on situation it will vibrate badly and induce eddy currents in to the plunger if a solid piece of steel is used.

To minimize vibration in a AC solenoid you need to use shading rings to store magnetic flux as the current crosses zero.

Best choice for DC is iron. Best choice for AC is laminated silicon steel.

Also a AC solenoid will move faster than a DC one as initial current flow in to a AC solenoid will be higher.

EDIT: I just looked at the photo you posted, the solenoid has a clamping diode on it. So it is a DC solenoid. The best choice would be pure iron (magnet iron) but low carbon steel would also be OK. As for a solid rod or hollow, experimentation may be necessary.
 
Before recommending what material to use and if a solid or hollow plunger is better, we need to know if the solenoid is running on DC or AC current? Although a AC solenoid will have lower current consumption in a steady on situation it will vibrate badly and induce eddy currents in to the plunger if a solid piece of steel is used.

To minimize vibration in a AC solenoid you need to use shading rings to store magnetic flux as the current crosses zero.

Best choice for DC is iron. Best choice for AC is laminated silicon steel.

Also a AC solenoid will move faster than a DC one as initial current flow in to a AC solenoid will be higher.

EDIT: I just looked at the photo you posted, the solenoid has a clamping diode on it. So it is a DC solenoid. The best choice would be pure iron (magnet iron) but low carbon steel would also be OK. As for a solid rod or hollow, experimentation may be necessary.

Pinball solenoids (at least on the old all electromechanical versions)are only powered while the ball is touching the bumper and the metal ring at the base. It's a very brief pulse of DC.
 
I couldn't tell you the how or why, but all solenoid piston/shafts I know are solid.

One in particular I know is in this pic:

104.jpg

The spring is about 1.5" in diameter. The shaft is inside of the spring at about 1.25" in diameter.

Unpowered, the spring forces the shaft in one direction. When 12 or 24VDC is applied, the shaft slams against springs weight, opposite of the direction spring pushes.

Anyway, this particular shaft/piston is solid.

My guess or theory, is that magnetism doesn't care only about surface area. Its invisible power reaches not only the surface area, but reaches inside and grabs the interior core also, providing greater horsepower if you will to the pulling force. A hollow shaft will will not have that same horsepower so to speak.
 
This is a typical solenoid from a pinball machine...when power is supplied to the coil, a magnetic field is created and the rod (plunger) travels in a linear manner to perform a task such as moving the flipper.

The plunger, of course, must have magnetic properties and is almost always made of steel.

I'm doing a small job making some plungers that have 'custom' dimensions. I can make these of solid steel rod or steel tube.


I think two things....

1) The plunger will travel if it's solid steel, but it will also travel just as effectively if it is a hollow tube....the amount of mass is not a significant factor in the ability of the plunger to travel.

2) A hollow tube of steel will travel as effectively as a solid rod of steel...but it will move more quickly and with less 'demand' on the coil as it has a lower mass/inertia.


My question is...am I right in thinking that?


View attachment 347212

You'll want high iron steel to have ferromagnetic properties in your plungers...pure iron would be even better. Nickel, cobalt and rare-earth elements can contribute as well.

More mass (more atoms) results in more ferromagnetic affect, so a solid plunger will have more magnetic force than a tubular plunger.

The number of coils will affect the magnetic field strength, the more coils the more strength.

The greater the magnetic field and the more mass in your plunger will affect the amount of current flowing.

Also, keep in mind that you'll want your devices to work for short periods of time, they will heat up as the whole coil is just a big resister that will heat up with continuous application of electricity.
 
Well...tried the new plunger this evening and...it didn't work a bit.

Put the old plunger in and it worked fine.

So...came to realize the plungers all work on the principle that the coil seeks to pull the plunger in a direction that will create maximum saturation. In other words, at the beginning, the plunger has to be in the coil enough to 'grab' the magnetism but it can't be in completely. If the plunger is in completely, the coil has no desire to move the plunger anywhere.

That's why the original plunger has a body that is partly aluminum (or plastic)...something non=magnetic. The only portion of the plunger that is magnetic is about 1/2"...so when the coil is fired, the plunger will move in the direction that allows more of it's magnetic portion to go into the coil.


So....I have to make a plunger that is part steel and part aluminum. The all steel plunger won't work...at least not for arrangements where the plunger body completely passes through the coil.
 
Mag-nee-tizm. It is magic.

Like it goes around the bar in a circle, but the bar moves sideways???

Hmmm :scratchchin: Like you think the bar should be spinning, not moving sideways.

I once read a physics book :reading: and the more you read, the more you think this can't possibly be right. :nutter: I mean do these guys actually do anything other than sit around in classrooms being creepy? And then at the end of the book you get to these parts where it says that nothing can move faster than light and the universe is going to eventually transmute into a field of iron spheres and then you are like, this is just so wrong. :dopeslap:
 
Any old steel cannot be used for a solenoid plunger. Most high iron steels will work... for a little while. Then the plunger acquires its own magnetic field and you're back to square one. You want a high magnetic permeability but a low coercivity (the last property mentioned) which is specific stainless alloys. A quick web search turns up little more than folks wanting to sell their alloys.

This was a decent bit of information, though:
430FR is the choice metal for solenoids | Metal Talk
 
Any old steel cannot be used for a solenoid plunger. Most high iron steels will work... for a little while. Then the plunger acquires its own magnetic field and you're back to square one. You want a high magnetic permeability but a low coercivity (the last property mentioned) which is specific stainless alloys. A quick web search turns up little more than folks wanting to sell their alloys.

This was a decent bit of information, though:
430FR is the choice metal for solenoids | Metal Talk

While there is truth to that I think we are getting way out of the scope of a pinball machine.

Also, in an air core solenoid it's not a huge deal if the plunger becomes magnetic, as there is nothing for it to attract to when the solenoid is off and it will reach the same basic field level when the solenoid is on.
 
For what it's worth, I replicated the original setup using aluminum (with some strength improvements) and it works fine.
 








 
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