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How you identify "scrap" stainless steel stock

stuball48

Stainless
Joined
Sep 10, 2006
Location
Dickson, TN
Many of you have more experience that I will ever be able to obtain and my question is, when I am rummaging in salvage yards and spot a piece or two of round stainless stock, what method would you use to determine if it will "turn in lathe?"
 
Magnet and file


Magnet will tell you (maybe) if it is 400 series like 410 because it is "sticky" (17-4 PH will also be sticky :D )

The 300 series such as 303, 304 and 316 will be hardly or not at all sticky and quite soft to the file.

The 400 series can be hard since they (at least some) can be heat treated - that is where the file comes in.

You may run across even some Inconel. It won't be magnetic, and is generally too hard to fool with. Good for rustic paper weights with a machine shop flavor ;)


John
 
Our local salvage yard will not pay "stainless prices" for any stainless steel that a magnet will stick to.

It ticks me off to only get scrap iron prices for stainless steel.

Orrin
 
If all you want to know is, will it turn in a lathe, look at the two ends of the bar in question. If it is a short end from a screw machine, one end will have lathe cutoff markings visible. If the end is sawed or sheared, it could still be OK for turning. Most round bar is meant to be turned, especially if it is centerless ground so it will fit a collet.

Larry
 
There's also the spark test where a clean grinding wheel is touched on the unknown and the resulting sparks observed. Different sparks mean different alloys. A keen, well-practiced observer using a magnet, file, sparks, the material's response to heat and acid, knowledge of the material's previous use, and a little black magic can make some shrewd guesses identifying unknown metals but they will still be guesses.

There are hundreds of stainless steel alloys some of whose constituent alloy proportions overlap. Identifying many from spectrographic tests can be difficuts without the full array (micrographic, hardness, physical properties, etc) can stretch even a metallurgical lab.

My rule is mystery metal is ignored as not worth the bother unless it can be identified with some certainty and there is enough at a good price to warrant reliable identification. Exceptions are rolled structural shapes, propeller shafts from lnboard engined boats (only a few materials used there all easily distinguishable), round stock from garden implements, etc.

Good home shop operators won't tolerate mystery metal in their shops. They have all their material identified in some way; by segregated storage, permanent marking, or paint coding.

Use mystery metal with caution and only on articles having no reliability requirements. For all other applications use material for whick you can honestly confirm its ID.
 
Forrest Andy:
You mentioned "propeller shafts from inboard engined boats"---Is this a stainless than can be worked well with a lathe? I have access to some stainless steel shafts.
Thanks
 








 
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