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Machine Metal Signs / Data Plates

Smouser

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 14, 2022
While detailing the refurbishment of my ELLIOT OMNISPEED lathe and explaining how I got a replacement data plate/thread cutting plate, a fellow forum member suggested that I make a thread in the General section of the forum.

This post might help out other members who require a relatively cheap replacement sign or data plate for their machines.

My lathe's information/data plate/thread cutting plate was pretty worn out and damaged.

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Luckily, the information could still be read and the lathe's manual also had the required data within it.

Elliott page 23_0002.jpg

I wanted a metal plate to replace the original and tried to recreate the sign on my computer. I soon realised it would take me hours (lack of skill and practice doing this kind of thing).

I remembered that I still had an account at www.freelancer.com and posted the job on there asking for a recreation of the scanned image.
Bids started flowing in instantly (graphics designers must have some algorithm/automatic bid system). I looked through a few bids and selected a Freelancer from Pakistan to recreate the image as he said he could start straight away.

Within a few hours, he sent me the first draft.

Table-updated version-01.jpg


As part of the job description on Freelancer.com, I also stated that I wanted the original source file (Adobe Illustrator in this case). Adobe Illustrator uses vector graphics which means you can basically infinitely scale the design without losing quality, unlike an image (jpg, gif etc) which loses quality when you increase its size.

After he made some minor adjustments, I accepted the design, paid the freelancer £20 and he sent all the files over to me.

I then made a few minor adjustments and additions on Adobe Illustrator until I was happy with it.

There are also some free vector graphics design software available.
Affinity Designer and Inkscape but I have not used any of the two and cannot say which one might work better/are easier to learn.

I am in the UK so the following prices and websites apply to the UK only but I am sure similar prices and companies can be found in other countries.

The next problem was, where and on what to get it printed.
I believe the original is on anodized aluminium but I am not too sure. I could not find a place that could provide an instant online quote for anodized aluminium printing but did find a selection of companies that could print on aluminium dibond material.

Lots of companies have a minimum order of £50 - £75 but I found https://www.colour-frog.co.uk which could print the sign for about £21 (375mm x 115mm).
However, for a plate of 375mm x 400mm, it was only £28 so I went for that, that way, I could squeeze two designs of the data plate on and also add some other graphics/plates I wanted.

You have the option of either white dibond aluminium or brushed dibond aluminium.
I chose brushed.

This is the design I sent for printing.

Combined signs (1).jpg

The preview on their website.

Elliott brushed (1).jpg

The sign arrived a few days later. It was very well packed, wrapped in bubble wrap with corner protection and then wedged in between two pieces of cardboard as outer packaging.

IMG_20230515_175824 (1) (1).jpg

IMG_20230515_180144 (1).jpg

The old sign overlaid on the new.

IMG_20230515_180216 (1).jpg

A closeup of the brushed aluminium sign.

IMG_20230515_183049 (1).jpg

Luckily, I had access to a guillotine at work to cut the signs out, it worked perfectly.

IMG_20230516_100529 (1).jpg

While it is not exactly like the original, I am more than happy with my replacement signs.

I hope this helps someone out looking to get some replacement signs made.

My Elliott sign design can be downloaded from here.

It might make it easier to modify/play around with an existing sign before designing your own.
 
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Nice work, thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!

Regarding Affinity Designer and Inkscape, I switched from Illustrator to Designer to get the Adobe monkey off my back, and it's a very impressive piece of software for a very modest price. My early experiences with Inkscape were disappointing, but that might just have been me.
 
Nice job.

I have made similar graphics, usually for simpler signs. I usually use a CAD program. Virtually all CAD programs use a vector format so scaling is a trivial issue. Mine will export in BMP (bit map) file format but there are a number of programs that will convert to different graphics formats. I frequently use Microsoft Paint to convert from BMP to JPG and it will do other conversions. Paint.net is another free program that allows you to save in many file formats. Of course you can create the artwork in either of these free programs.

I have found local sign shops that can produce signs on sheet aluminum for very reasonable prices. They are everywhere. Some can even do the artwork; for a price, of course.

This is also a good way to make front panels for electric and electronic projects. On-line services charge a fortune but the local sign shops produce nice looking signs for little money.

The only thing about the aluminum signs is the sheet metal is very thin so it needs to be mounted on something more substantial. Contact cement is good for that.
 
I have had several data plates laser etched for me at a local trophy and sign making shop.
I just gave them an image of the data plates and they did the rest. Lots of choices of material and the brushed aluminum with black background looks very good.
In one case I took the actual old plate (drill press) in for them to scan as I needed to change the rpm numbers. The rpms were different as we run on 60hz instead of the Euro 50hz standard. Hard to tell the new plates from the old ones.
Pricing was very reasonable.
 
This is also a good way to make front panels for electric and electronic projects. On-line services charge a fortune but the local sign shops produce nice looking signs for little money.

I wish that was the case here. I would much rather support a local business in my hometown/neighbouring town than an unknown company online.

Unfortunately, the local sign/trophy/engraving place is not even close to being competitive on price.
 
Might have to be careful with cleaning solvent as not to ruin the ink. I really try not to get lacquer thinner on any inked name plates, like some electric motors have.
Thankfully many inked nameplates use methyl keytone as a solvent vehicle for their ink. I do not keep keytone in my shop, and it is super bad for your liver, and the volatile fractions will trigger a headache in 2 minutes for me.
For ultimate durability, I like the laser etched idea.
Maybe laser etch first and then have the color added for the ultimate quality name plate.

-Doozer
 
I have covered my signs with clear sticky plastic for a bit of protection. In the UK it is called clear Fablon, DC Fix or self adhesive clear film.

No idea how well it will last.

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I am working on reproducing a small nameplate. I drew up the artwork in a 2D graphics program and asked my metalworking club for suggestions. One guy volunteered his Gorton pantograph and my friend Denis Foster did a 3D print 3X size. I have high hopes of getting a beautiful machined nameplate.0.png
 
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I am working on reproducing a small nameplate. I drew up the artwork in a 2D graphics program and asked my metalworking club for suggestions. One guy volunteered his Gorton pantograph and another did a 3D print 3X size. I have high hopes of getting a beautiful machined nameplate.View attachment 425664
That looks very nice. Post your result when you get it.
 
If you don't need color, there's a great company in your area called PPD LTD, who specializes in low volume photo etching. They do a nice job and love low quantity hobby work. I'm a very happy customer.
 
Anyone know how the original plates were made to resist being dissolved by machining and cleaning fluids?

Is it possible to make one using a baked on powder coating?
I laser engrave powder coated aluminum plates very often. I can do text all of the way down to where you can't read it without a magnifying glass in most cases.

Depending on the parameters I can engrave just the powder off and leave the dull, sandblasted finish or I can do a high energy pass and make the aluminum bright white where it is ablated off. Stainless works well too but doesn't get that high contrast bright white. In my experience the bright aluminum doesn't corrode in the elements, likely from a thick oxide layer.
 
I laser engrave powder coated aluminum plates very often. I can do text all of the way down to where you can't read it without a magnifying glass in most cases.

Depending on the parameters I can engrave just the powder off and leave the dull, sandblasted finish or I can do a high energy pass and make the aluminum bright white where it is ablated off. Stainless works well too but doesn't get that high contrast bright white. In my experience the bright aluminum doesn't corrode in the elements, likely from a thick oxide layer.
Show us a few of your plates, please.
 
Anyone know how the original plates were made to resist being dissolved by machining and cleaning fluids?

Is it possible to make one using a baked on powder coating?
baked enamal or tougher such as glyptal or epoxy. The flatter Al ones are anodised with a photoresist mask.
edit: add epoxy
 
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I did something similar in brass for my ancient Van Norman #12 mill. My son created a digital image of the original plates, and I had it duplicated at a local trophy shop. Easy peasy . . . if you can find a way to get the digital file made.

This is routine for trophy shops, but it's usually something like "So-and-So / 1st Place Winner." At a guess, I think they must use a laser process and start with a piece of sheet brass coated with a black oxide. Unfortunately, dear son made a mistake with one of the digits, and neither of us caught it.
 

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Oh, I've also lasered powder coated silicon bronze, which looked super cool but was prohibitively expensive.
 
That looks very nice. Post your result when you get it.
Sadly, the 3D print -> Gorton pantograph method didn't work. The pantograph owner broke one too many small end mills and punted. I wound up getting a basic etched brass nameplate, not a machined one. But I am pretty happy with them (I ordered 2). Here is the outfit I used:

Thomas Utley <[email protected]>
Von Industrial, LLC
12827 N Morgan Ranch Rd
Oro Valley, AZ 85755
https://www.vonindustrial.com
520-404-6474

They were wonderful to work with and I found their prices reasonable. Highly recommend.

Here's a pic:

pairNameplates.jpg
 








 
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