jccaclimber
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2015
- Location
- San Francisco
This started from a set of DMs with another member who purchased one of these used, but I figure it might be useful to others, so I'm posting here. I'll start with getting it home and then add some notes about the probes and carriers.
You need to get it home.
It weighs about 65 lbf, so some care is needed. I have a custom case for mine, but in general it's fairly solid. However, there is a counterweight inside and if you don't secure it you may damage things in transportation. Ideally this should be secured any time the gage is tilted from a vertical position. To secure the counterweight you'll need a 16 mm long standard M4 x 0.7 SHCS (head type not important).
-Remove the probe attachment from the carriage (at which point you should be holding on to the carriage or it'll fly to the top).
-Lower the carriage as far as it can go to raise the internal counterweight.
-While holding it there, install the screw in the brass thread at top until the screw bottoms out.
-The brass thread, AND the internal counterweight are threaded, so a very slight jiggle may be needed to make everything line up, though usually the screw goes right in.
-Barely past finger tight is fine, no need to strip anything out.
-If you miss the thread on the counterweight (usually because the probe is not low enough/counterweight not high enough when you start to engage the screw) the screw will still feel snug in the brass bushing. It'll be obvious because the carriage will still travel freely with the screw tightened instead of being firmly held in place.
-You may also want to remove the screen. It's just a few (metric) screws and one connector, and it'll keep you from damaging the screen when moving it.
In a vehicle on its back with a furniture pad would work in a pinch. The demo unit Mahr uses is transported in a foam filled golf club carrier and it survives both the TSA and luggage handlers, so you'll be fine if you use reasonable care. There are smooth pads on the bottom that it rests/glides on when in use on a granite table, so take care when putting it down just like anything else that contacts a precision surface.
Try to get everything that should be with it. Accessories may vary, but there are a few things that should have been with it when new. Like the change gears on a lathe, these are available, but will cost you.
-The calibration artifact. It's just a hardened steel cylinder with a group of ceramic gage blocks in the top that are parallel to the base, but it's useful and really expensive to replace.
-The power supply. It's a 7.5 V 2.4 A wall wort with a barrel connector.
-Grab any probe carriers that come with it.
-Once you have a carrier, you can get standard Renishaw CMM probes from McMaster if you need really tiny delicate stuff with a long reach. You do want the right weigh but those are a lot cheaper than the carbide Mahr ones.
-One more accessory note, the USB port doesn't actually talk to a computer, but the serial port does. Mahr sells a Serial to USB cord for $$$, but any generic serial to USB adapter will work so long as you get it on the correct COM port.
You need to get it home.
It weighs about 65 lbf, so some care is needed. I have a custom case for mine, but in general it's fairly solid. However, there is a counterweight inside and if you don't secure it you may damage things in transportation. Ideally this should be secured any time the gage is tilted from a vertical position. To secure the counterweight you'll need a 16 mm long standard M4 x 0.7 SHCS (head type not important).
-Remove the probe attachment from the carriage (at which point you should be holding on to the carriage or it'll fly to the top).
-Lower the carriage as far as it can go to raise the internal counterweight.
-While holding it there, install the screw in the brass thread at top until the screw bottoms out.
-The brass thread, AND the internal counterweight are threaded, so a very slight jiggle may be needed to make everything line up, though usually the screw goes right in.
-Barely past finger tight is fine, no need to strip anything out.
-If you miss the thread on the counterweight (usually because the probe is not low enough/counterweight not high enough when you start to engage the screw) the screw will still feel snug in the brass bushing. It'll be obvious because the carriage will still travel freely with the screw tightened instead of being firmly held in place.
-You may also want to remove the screen. It's just a few (metric) screws and one connector, and it'll keep you from damaging the screen when moving it.
In a vehicle on its back with a furniture pad would work in a pinch. The demo unit Mahr uses is transported in a foam filled golf club carrier and it survives both the TSA and luggage handlers, so you'll be fine if you use reasonable care. There are smooth pads on the bottom that it rests/glides on when in use on a granite table, so take care when putting it down just like anything else that contacts a precision surface.
Try to get everything that should be with it. Accessories may vary, but there are a few things that should have been with it when new. Like the change gears on a lathe, these are available, but will cost you.
-The calibration artifact. It's just a hardened steel cylinder with a group of ceramic gage blocks in the top that are parallel to the base, but it's useful and really expensive to replace.
-The power supply. It's a 7.5 V 2.4 A wall wort with a barrel connector.
-Grab any probe carriers that come with it.
-Once you have a carrier, you can get standard Renishaw CMM probes from McMaster if you need really tiny delicate stuff with a long reach. You do want the right weigh but those are a lot cheaper than the carbide Mahr ones.
-One more accessory note, the USB port doesn't actually talk to a computer, but the serial port does. Mahr sells a Serial to USB cord for $$$, but any generic serial to USB adapter will work so long as you get it on the correct COM port.