Normalizing vs. choosing another alloy

[spooky]

Hey All.

I have a part that I've been making out of 1018. Rough stock is 5.75X1.25X.5. The final part is only .160 thick (except for a boss, hence the .5 inch thickness)

I've been normalizing the stock before machining in my small furnace to avoid most of the warpage encountered when removing so much cold rolled mat'l.

Now I need to ramp up production and the normalization process will become a major bottleneck (and expensive). I've tried A36. That works sometimes, but can't always get a good fly cut finish on it. I've looked for hot roll or normalized 1018 and haven't had much luck.

Do any of you have any thoughts or experience in this realm?

Thanks Everyone,

Best,

CE

 

[Digital Factory]

Are you sending it out for normalizing?

You can normalize the material yourself using a furnace built for firing ceramics.

You can also try 4140.

Rectangular bar unfortunately doesn't give you too many steel choices compared to round bar.

 

[spooky]

Are you sending it out for normalizing?

You can normalize the material yourself using a furnace built for firing ceramics.

You can also try 4140.

Rectangular bar unfortunately doesn't give you too many steel choices compared to round bar.

Hadn't thought about sending it out. I have been using a thermolyne oven in my shop.

I'd had the same thought about 4140 but then I priced it. Lol

Thank you!

 

[MrWhoopee]

Any cold finished bar will have the same stresses, a different alloy will not change that. First choice, work out the finish problems with A36. Second choice would be rough cut stock to length and send out for normalizing.

 

[MaxPrairie]

What machine and fly cutter are you using for these parts? We machine A36 all the time, just need to find the right insert to keep a nice finish. Usually face off 20 thou for a finish pass too, light cuts on mild steel smear.

 

[Dan from Oakland]

Are you roughing the parts out prior to normalizing? Normalizing and then removing alot of material may not solve your warping problem if your machining is adding stresses. Rough out the part, then normalize and then finish machine.

 

[MCritchley]

Id sub in 1045.

 

[Thunderjet]

Are you roughing the parts out prior to normalizing? Normalizing and then removing alot of material may not solve your warping problem if your machining is adding stresses. Rough out the part, then normalize and then finish machine.

I was thinking the same thing.^^^^^^^^

I would ruff them to within an 1/16 or so and THEN normalize in batches. This would cut down on the bottleneck factor and save on energy costs as well.
.160 is pretty dainty when comes to keeping things flat. Be sure to fixture them properly as to prevent warping under clamping/vice squeezing.

 

[gbent]

That's going to move like a pretzel if cold rolled is roughed first. I agree with figuring out how to machine hot rolled so it looks pretty. .010 finish stock and high surface speed works.

 

[dstig]

Is there another way to approach it like welding or pressing the boss on or a forging that you finish machine? A lot depends on the volumes, of course...

 

[spooky]

Thanks for all the great replies everyone. I have tried partial machining and then normalizing. It worked but didn't save me anything over normalizing the material before machining.

I had thought to try 1045 but couldn't find it in a size that was convenient.

I did go back and try some more A36 yesterday using a 2" kennametal shell mill, cant remember the insert though. After playing around feeds, speeds and depth of cut I did get an acceptable finish. In the past it was smearing as MaxPrarie had mentioned above.

I still got a little warpage but then it is a thin part too! If I can figure out a different way to hold it, I could use .375 mat'l instead of .5. That may help some too.

Thanks again!

CE

 

[MaxPrairie]

Your face mill could be putting stress into the material as well. Could try facing with a sharp solid carbide to test that theory. If it stays more flat, try a more positive insert.

HIEX/HPSM, Carbide Indexable End Mill Insert, Rectangle, HS Chip Breaker, Grade HU30 - Pack of 10

HIEX/HPSM, Carbide Indexable End Mill Insert, Rectangle, HS Chip Breaker, Grade HU30 - Pack of 10

www.haascnc.com

I just bought 4 packs of the above inserts to try out last week. Figured for $4 an insert, why not. Bought 6 more pack yesterday. Did test cuts with a 2" facemill, 1500 rpm, 25 ipm. Pretty glassy. Inserts are similar to the Seco turbo, I like that style but inserts are about $30 each these days. Otherwise using an SDMT insert which is also good.

 

[spooky]

Your face mill could be putting stress into the material as well. Could try facing with a sharp solid carbide to test that theory. If it stays more flat, try a more positive insert.

HIEX/HPSM, Carbide Indexable End Mill Insert, Rectangle, HS Chip Breaker, Grade HU30 - Pack of 10

HIEX/HPSM, Carbide Indexable End Mill Insert, Rectangle, HS Chip Breaker, Grade HU30 - Pack of 10

www.haascnc.com

I just bought 4 packs of the above inserts to try out last week. Figured for $4 an insert, why not. Bought 6 more pack yesterday. Did test cuts with a 2" facemill, 1500 rpm, 25 ipm. Pretty glassy. Inserts are similar to the Seco turbo, I like that style but inserts are about $30 each these days. Otherwise using an SDMT insert which is also good.

Just may try one. I do have a sumitomo 5/8ths em that uses similar inserts. I'll have to see if they are the same nomenclature.

What is the material you were cutting?

Thanks again!