Standard modern bedway condition.

[Archstanton]

Hello I’m considering purchasing a standard modern 1334. The seller has no power where it is stored so turning a test piece is out of the question. I did however place indicators on the carriage and checked the bearing surfaces from the headstock to the tail and the results were a .005 variance. Opinions? is that good? Great? Or complete crap? Can this be an accurate way to check for bed wear? The machine seems to have normal wear and tear and it may have been turned over at one point due to the fact that the gear change has been repaired. However it seems to be a steal @$1500. I should add that I’m purchasing a lathe for barrel threading and chambering. Thanks

 

[john.k]

Yes 005 is pretty good on a well used lathe .......for gunsmith use you wont even notice a lot more wear than that.....The steadies will be needed for your work too.

 

[Archstanton]

Yes 005 is pretty good on a well used lathe .......for gunsmith use you wont even notice a lot more wear than that.....The steadies will be needed for your work too.

Good deal! For the price it’s hard to pass on. Thanks

 

[Richard King]

I teach a really good way to see wear on a lathe is to crank the apron to the right then use a flashlight and look at the gear rack under the bed. It will be unworn on the far left and right. Then look at the rack under the chuck and 20" to the far right. If the machine is worn bad the rack teeth will be sharp and hollowed between the teeth. You Tuber Keith Rucker and I tested the bed of hid LeBlond lathe and it was out .011". He said it was good enough for what he was going yo use it for. If you can't run it. Put the chuck key in the chuck and try to turn the spindle, remove the headstock and check how clean it is, look at the gears, have a friend go and move the change gears while you turn the chuck. On lathes I've seen tipped over the cross feed screw was bent and cross slide damaged. Take some feeler gages and see it will slide between the ways and turn the cross feed screw and see if it turn smoothly. Good luck

 

[john.k]

From what Ive read on forums,any S-M lathe for under $4000 is a steal.

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

Remove the drain plug on the apron. If coolant comes out you could be buying an expensive problem. What is the general condition of the lathe ? What’s the backlash on the handles like ? Is it still in its original paint ? How many vee belts are left on the pulley ? Is there chuck rash on the compound/cross slide ? Is the work light still in one piece ? What about the coolant system ? Is that still ok, does the pump work ? Are all the ball handles still original ? Has the far end of the bed been used as an anvil for removing drills from their sleeves ?

If the answers to those questions are all positive it tells me the lathe has had a good operator who took care of the machine.

Regards Tyrone

 

[Tyrone Shoelaces]

Sorry, duplicate post.

Regards Tyrone

 

[scottrowes]

I wouldn't buy it. I have an old Standard Modern 1334. The cantilevered bend lends itself to about 0.005" of sag. With supports on both sides, as with a 1340 lathe (standard modern or otherwise) this can be leveled, but with a cantilevered bed you're stuck with it. In my case some supposed riggers (morons) introduced the sag when they mishandled the machine. I'm rebuilding a Standard Modern 1340 so I'll have a fully "levelable" bed.

 

[Richard King]

I wouldn't buy it. I have an old Standard Modern 1334. The cantilevered bend lends itself to about 0.005" of sag. With supports on both sides, as with a 1340 lathe (standard modern or otherwise) this can be leveled, but with a cantilevered bed you're stuck with it. In my case some supposed riggers (morons) introduced the sag when they mishandled the machine. I'm rebuilding a Standard Modern 1340 so I'll have a fully "levelable" bed.

I see you're new to the forum. Look at the date of the original post. November 27, 2023
Rich