B&S 2L Surface grinder oil pump help

[4GSR]

I don't have any "easy to find" pictures of mine. I sure I can take the top half of this Chinese one, less the tank and put it in place of the Bijur one on my grinder. May have to make some sort of adapter plate to make it work, as long as it doesn't stick up too high and interfere with the cross slide, it should work. Of course, I'm thinking out loud here.

 

[Froneck]

I have to mount the complete unit below the old oil level. Currently the oil was pumped to all moving parts except a few. The return is directed to the reservoir filtered then directed to the pump to be sent back to all areas needing oil. Quite a bit of oil is supplied to the table ways that eventually gets returned to the reservoir. If I didn't collect the oil and re-use it I would have a large puddle on the floor.

 

[Froneck]

I did get the B&S pump to work, cleaned the reservoir and modifying the SS metal filter to fit. However I did order the electric pump assembly and waiting delivery. Since I want to mount it on the cast iron reservoir I'm waiting for it to arrive so I can drill/tap the reservoir and easily clean the chips.
One thing I'm concerned about is the 110V, description states "(Only Support 110V)". Should I be concerned that 120V might exceed the rating. There is a transformer on the machine to supply 120Vish power to the work light attached to the side of the machine. I can check the voltage. Or can I assume only support 110V means it can't be changed to 220V. Power I'm using is RPC created 3 phase from 240vac single phase line.

 

[4GSR]

I one I bought years back, I installed on a 20" L & S lathe. It had a xformer on board that had enough power to run it along with a work light. It is only one voltage. I recall, the wattage was very low, maybe 160 watts. I have seen them listed with 220v, I didn't look that hard when I found this particular link.

 

[Froneck]

I have no problem with 110V as long as the voltage I have will work since it might be 120V or slightly more.

 

[4GSR]

That shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Froneck]

I received the electric oil pump yesterday. I opened the box that did have a hole in it but was repaired. Plastic bag was ripped open, tubing screw and sleeve were loose in the box but were found however 2 small black plastic pieces were also with the fittings. No packing material in the box! Lower corner of electric box broken (plastic pieces location) . Label marked 220V and has oil satin, reservoir has oil residue, corner of I assume instruction label (In Chinese) is oil stained and inside of shipping box is also oil stained indicating this item was probably returned. It may not work or possibly not work on 110V. I notified the seller on ebay with photos! At least I have mounting hole location!
Checking on ebay I see the photo of the unit has 220V on the label but the listing is for 110V and in the specifications "Only support 110V" is listed.

 

[Froneck]

Up Date;
I got a reply from the seller only after contacting ebay when the seller didn't respond. They claim the 220V was the wrong label incorrectly placed on the unit. They offered an $8 refund for me to keep the unit and test it to be sure it worked. I replied; I ordered and paid for a New Pump system, oil indicates it was tested therefore used and possibly not work! I would rather return the item for a full refund or replacement with instruction in English even if on a separate sheet of paper!
I think the unit was probably modified to work on 110V, might have been tested and reason for the oil. Actually I would rather get a 220V unit new though 110V would be my preferred voltage. 240V is available at the machine. They could have been honest so I'll be a pain in their Butt!!

 

[4GSR]

Yeah, they are PINTA! The ones I bought, both electric and manual, had left over oil in reservoir. At least they tested them before they left the factory! As for the 110v vs 220v or 240v, Want know until it is plugged in. May release the white smoke, may not. The reason for 220v and not 240v, they operate on 50cy over there, where we are on 60cy. Either variation should not be a problem running 220v motor on 240v. The only thing I did was run a low amperage fuse to attempt to protect the pump.
These units are not used. Once sold, they don't want them back! You'll get your money back and more than likely they will tell you to throw it away than to pay shipping to get it back.

 

[swatkins]

Were you able to get oil flowing through all the passages? To check I sometimes take off the metering device an blow compressed air through the passage. On some really old machines I find that the oil sets and all the suspended junk collects and blocks it all...

I have a video somewhere on a old horizontal mill that I spent two days finding all the cross drilled plugs then running long pipe cleaners through to clear them...

 

[Froneck]

I think I found the problem. I did get the pump to work, actually did nothing except reassemble it! The filter is similar to that in fuel oil filters about 6" long wavy felt. Having a SS filter similar to a McMaster filter mention in previous post I'm almost complete in modifying it to fit.
The problem seems to have been the original filter was completely plugged or dam near. On the top there is a knurled nut to hold the top (23- 3239) in place. As per the drawing there is superposed to be a washer (23-3258). No mention as to what the material is but I'm thinking rubber (looks like an O ring) to seal the inside of the filter since it is slightly above the oil level and the washer was not there. Being that oil could not self flow thru the filter (being very dirty) the pump was sucking air and not pumping oil.