What's new
What's new

Chinese lathe good enough for my needs?

Harrison m300 use a mt5 taper in the headstock. But like Peter said it is just a short section of the full length. It came with a mt3 adapter and I have no idea if the mt 5 is the big or small end.
M300 is a 13 inch size lathe so similar size to the OP's?
BilLD
 
Harrison made the M300 in china for a while. The quality was so bad they had to go back to making them in England for a while. Finally got too expensive for English made so they are all made in China for decades. It has been sold under other names including Wilton, Clausing and Doall.
Bill D
 
The brochure and manual for my lathe said the spindle was morse taper #6. It was not but was metric taper #6. I bought an adapter to make it morse taper #4. The manufacter of the lathe said lots of translated manuals have mistakes.
Does Metric Taper have another name? I'm having a hard time googling that taper. It sort of concerns me to now know that there are two things that are MTx.
 
So the milling machine has arrived and I went to check it out.

All looks good except for the variable spindle speed adjustment wheel. The rpm does not change with the movement of the handwheel so the seller is going to get it repaired before selling the unit to me.

In the meantime, I need to order some chucks for the machine.

Can anyone identify which morse taper this arbor is? The large diameter of the taper is 31.6 mm and tapers off to 17.1 mm with a taper length of around 50 mm.
 

Attachments

  • 20240515_180734.jpg
    20240515_180734.jpg
    948.4 KB · Views: 10
  • 20240515_180236.jpg
    20240515_180236.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 11
Use my link then hit the link to machine tapers near the bottom.
Bill D

 
I was thinking in case the variable speed handwheel never ends up working on the mill, maybe I could buy a VFD and control the speed that way.

Are there any drawbacks to this method? Perhaps not the same amount of torque at low speeds?
 
Torque below the design speed. Range being limited by what frequency range the motor can take. Can’t run forever at full torque and low RPM as the motor won’t have as much airflow if it has a built in fan. If you have a Reeve’s drive you’ll wear a groove in it eventually, but if that happens in your use is TBD.
 
Guys I have receiving the used mill and currently taking it apart piece by piece to familiarize myself with it and clean is as best as I can.

When nodding the head forward, a lot of oil spilled out of the cast aluminium housing. I took it apart and there seems to be gears for the quill downfeed however, there is no gasket to hold the oil in the first place and there is a large gap around the lever arm so I am guessing I should clean out the oil and replace that with grease?
 

Attachments

  • 20240531_133745.jpg
    20240531_133745.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 9
1. I'm personally a big fan of not taking apart things that are not broken, just for the purpose of providing an opportunity to break or contaminate them. For the purposes of this discussion, ancient dried out lubricants that are no longer properly functioning do warrant replacement.
2. I'm pretty sure that's greased on mine. I wonder if one of the oil wicks (harder to get to) is going to the wrong place, or happens to intentionally drain through there. Bridgeports are total loss oiling systems, so if it's not dripping it's not being oiled sufficiently.
3. FYI, at least one Bridgeport one of the upper oil cups, I think on the right side of the head SHOULD NOT be removed. The wick has to be bent into place after installation, and the only way to do that is with the head torn halfway down. If you unscrew it, it's not going to go back in correctly unless you tear the head down. You can guess how I found this out. I did confirm with H&W that there is not another solution to properly routing the wick once removed. I got luck in that I have sealed greased spindle bearings, so don't need that particular wick, but I still shouldn't have taken it out.
 
I would like to add a handwheel to the quill fine feed shaft however, there seems to be a broken thread in there.

What was supposed to thread in there and how do I get it out? Maybe I can drill the same tap drill size and then clean out the thread with tap? Not sure what the thread size and pitch is though.

There also seems to be a smaller shaft in there. What could that possibly be for?
 

Attachments

  • 20240601_201039.jpg
    20240601_201039.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 5
1. I'm personally a big fan of not taking apart things that are not broken, just for the purpose of providing an opportunity to break or contaminate them. For the purposes of this discussion, ancient dried out lubricants that are no longer properly functioning do warrant replacement.
2. I'm pretty sure that's greased on mine. I wonder if one of the oil wicks (harder to get to) is going to the wrong place, or happens to intentionally drain through there. Bridgeports are total loss oiling systems, so if it's not dripping it's not being oiled sufficiently.
3. FYI, at least one Bridgeport one of the upper oil cups, I think on the right side of the head SHOULD NOT be removed. The wick has to be bent into place after installation, and the only way to do that is with the head torn halfway down. If you unscrew it, it's not going to go back in correctly unless you tear the head down. You can guess how I found this out. I did confirm with H&W that there is not another solution to properly routing the wick once removed. I got luck in that I have sealed greased spindle bearings, so don't need that particular wick, but I still shouldn't have taken it out.

I completely disagree with you.
I take perfectly working things apart to verify their condition
and sometimes to see how they work (to LEARN).
I don't think we could be friends (LOL).
As to the main oil cup and downward bent wick....
It is not an issue.
You can pre-bend it down, and carefully insert the
oil cup into it's 1/8 pipe threads, and the wick will
end up fine, pointed just as perfect as you bent it.
And furthermore, if you were to leave the wick
pointed straight out, and screwed the oil cup in,
the oil would still reach the spindle bearings
just fine. Bending it down is really not necessary.
So not sure the reason for your concern.
I have had at least 20 Bridgeport heads apart
and I can not see why this perfectly pointed
oil wick could ever be an issue. People who
do not know always use the phrase, "...Because
that is how the factory did it", because either
they are unsure of their own ability to understand
how something works, or they refuse responsibility
for having something work correctly after they
touched it. I have been repairing many different
brands of machinery for years, and I design new
machines also. I have seen some really BAD
factory designs that have made their way into
production. I have worked for many companies
where bad designs are a result of the egos of the
engineering manager to push his design to final
production. I have seen where the accounting
cost cutting has ruined an otherwise good design
and turned it into crap that does not work.
I could cite specific examples, and brand names
for sure. I absolutely claim that many times I
absolutely know more than the factory, because
I have seen what works, and what did not work.
I have an extended degrees and hands on experience
in these areas. But the total hands off approach
that the factory knows best is fooling one's self.

-Doozer
 
I would like to add a handwheel to the quill fine feed shaft however, there seems to be a broken thread in there.


There also seems to be a smaller shaft in there. What could that possibly be for?
That is the feed control for up-neutral-down.
There is a shoulder screw broken off in there
that would have originally supported a knurled handle.

-Doozer
 
I completely disagree with you.
I take perfectly working things apart to verify their condition
and sometimes to see how they work (to LEARN).
I don't think we could be friends (LOL).
As to the main oil cup and downward bent wick....
It is not an issue.
You can pre-bend it down, and carefully insert the
oil cup into it's 1/8 pipe threads, and the wick will
end up fine, pointed just as perfect as you bent it.
And furthermore, if you were to leave the wick
pointed straight out, and screwed the oil cup in,
the oil would still reach the spindle bearings
just fine. Bending it down is really not necessary.
So not sure the reason for your concern.
I have had at least 20 Bridgeport heads apart
and I can not see why this perfectly pointed
oil wick could ever be an issue. People who
do not know always use the phrase, "...Because
that is how the factory did it", because either
they are unsure of their own ability to understand
how something works, or they refuse responsibility
for having something work correctly after they
touched it. I have been repairing many different
brands of machinery for years, and I design new
machines also. I have seen some really BAD
factory designs that have made their way into
production. I have worked for many companies
where bad designs are a result of the egos of the
engineering manager to push his design to final
production. I have seen where the accounting
cost cutting has ruined an otherwise good design
and turned it into crap that does not work.
I could cite specific examples, and brand names
for sure. I absolutely claim that many times I
absolutely know more than the factory, because
I have seen what works, and what did not work.
I have an extended degrees and hands on experience
in these areas. But the total hands off approach
that the factory knows best is fooling one's self.

-Doozer
Hit a nerve?
I’m all for exploration for the purpose of education, but I’ve fixed more things that some mine decided to open for fun and put together wrong than the reverse. We can agree that there is a time and place. As an example, if the OP suddenly decides to un-mount the spindle bearings from the spindle to check under them is that a good idea, or an unnecessary cost as it damages the spindle bearings?
As for the oil cup, it sounds like you have a solution, so I’ll defer to you. I had a problem, and when I contacted H&W who has more experience than those here combined, they let me know there weren’t any good workarounds as my oil cup physically could not be inserted as you described (hits something in the power feed mechanism, flushes grease from where it should not if shortened). I don’t have the experience to disagree with either of you, so I’ll leave that a mystery.
 
So I received the Graziano lathe and so far it looks as good as it did in the pictures so I'm very happy with that.

It came with a Rohm 200 mm 4 jaw scroll chuck and a a smaller 160 mm no name brand 3 jaw scroll chuck.

I don't think either of them make any sense to have so wouldn't I be better off selling/trading those and getting myself a name brand 4 jaw independent chuck and a larger quality 3 jaw chuck?

Also, the taperd portion of the spindle is only about 5 cm long. The rest is cylindrical all the way to the front of the machine. Does that mean I can either use a stubby or a full length MT5 center?

How would I take it out without having to hammer it out using a long shaft? I'm guessing a center with a nut at the base would do the trick?
 








 
Back
Top