Help with CAD and programming

[Crowndroyal]

Hello,
I am looking for help from someone willing to help me CAD and program 2 separate projects for my son.

I don't have much for money bit I do have a little bit of cryptocurrency I can use as a good will gesture for the help.

I haven't had much experience doing this stuff most my work is already programed etc I have been trying to learn on fusion 360 and been trying to figure out how to do it. But it is way above my skill level atm.

Project 1)
Is a sign for my Son's door or wall
That I would like done in 2D out of aluminum or stainless steel or even wood.
20220221-101911 — ImgBB
That's a picture of what I have already done
But would love the helmet to be 2D instead. I have the original image somewhere.
16299263-396740284004835-3317997937309858432-n-png — ImgBB

Project 2
Is a test bench for a PC
I have the file already and the CAD just need to figure out the program and the different steps/setups

In fact you can grab the files yourself here
Open Benchtable - The world's best PC Test Bench


So the machine I would be using is an intimidator 120 by quick mill.

Any and all help is appreciated ��

 

[BugRobotics]

Hi, this type of request should go into the "Manufacturing Resource" sub-forum below. That workbench is pretty nifty.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/manufacturing-resource/

 

[memphisjed]

Are you after someone to make the sign or just give you direction on how to draw it for a cutting-out-machine to understand? I am a little different in that I rarely start a odd drawing in cad. I start with paper and pen. Once it is close I take a picture and trace it in Illustrator or Corel. I find the illustration software is better at doing illustration type drawings. Then I export that into cad. In cad I can scale and tweak to get straight/square. Most cutting-out machines do not take splines and need closed paths so I convert all the splines to arcs and check for open paths next. Cutting out is normally done straight off dxf, no need to "program" a cut out. kerf and pathing is done by the hamster wizards in the machine. You want to get fancy you can override them...but you do not.

The table is a little to a lot more thinking of the process thru in your head and then programming the operations from that.

 

[Crowndroyal]

Are you after someone to make the sign or just give you direction on how to draw it for a cutting-out-machine to understand? I am a little different in that I rarely start a odd drawing in cad. I start with paper and pen. Once it is close I take a picture and trace it in Illustrator or Corel. I find the illustration software is better at doing illustration type drawings. Then I export that into cad. In cad I can scale and tweak to get straight/square. Most cutting-out machines do not take splines and need closed paths so I convert all the splines to arcs and check for open paths next. Cutting out is normally done straight off dxf, no need to "program" a cut out. kerf and pathing is done by the hamster wizards in the machine. You want to get fancy you can override them...but you do not.

The table is a little to a lot more thinking of the process thru in your head and then programming the operations from that.

for your 1st question. No I don't need someone to make it for me. I just want someone to do a CAD model of it for me as I have been trying to do it in Fusion 360 for quite some time but can't do what I am trying to achieve.
What I am trying to achieve is to have the helmet and swords in 3D basically but the back is cut flat. So I Do not want it to be flat I want it to appear like it is an actual helmet with the nose raised the eyebrow parts raised and for there to be a curve etc.
I added the original image that I obviously made changes to to have the laser cutter/ engraver to make the wood one.


Yes I know the table is trying to figure out the proper process and operations. This would be my 1st project in trying to figure that out and I find it a bit more complicated for my skill level. ( not sure where to start first etc ) Now I know when I mill out the smaller parts I would have to leave some material so they don't just come flying out etc other issues I have is mounting. would I just use the good industrial double side tape ? not like the parts in it would be creating such forces to throw the par, I have seen bigger and more complicated parts done with double sided tape.

 

[Crowndroyal]

Hi, this type of request should go into the "Manufacturing Resource" sub-forum below. That workbench is pretty nifty.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/manufacturing-resource/

I posted there as well I will see what turns up, but I figured that was just for people who want the complete job but maybe someone is willing to help out there for a reasonable price.

 

[magno_grail]

On the PC table, for parts that do not fit a vice you would bolt down a large plate of aluminum on the table then clamp your stock to that. Drill/tap hold down holes around the perimeter and in the areas you are going to cut out. Hold the stock by the cut out areas and machine the perimeter then put on the clamps. When you cut out the open areas the screws will keep the scrap from flying off.
On the sign you need an idea of the elevations for the 3D. For the sword you can draw a cross section then extrude it along a path. For the tapered parts you can rotate the extrusion down into the horizontal plane and cut it off in the XY axis. your CAM will have to be able to translate the model into surface cuts.
I do almost all of my 3D in Acad2000 by extruding and adding/subtracting models to get what I want. I have drawn air cooled 4V heads and cylinders with it so a lot is possible without having to repurchase the software every year.

 

[Crowndroyal]

On the PC table, for parts that do not fit a vice you would bolt down a large plate of aluminum on the table then clamp your stock to that. Drill/tap hold down holes around the perimeter and in the areas you are going to cut out. Hold the stock by the cut out areas and machine the perimeter then put on the clamps. When you cut out the open areas the screws will keep the scrap from flying off.
On the sign you need an idea of the elevations for the 3D. For the sword you can draw a cross section then extrude it along a path. For the tapered parts you can rotate the extrusion down into the horizontal plane and cut it off in the XY axis. your CAM will have to be able to translate the model into surface cuts.
I do almost all of my 3D in Acad2000 by extruding and adding/subtracting models to get what I want. I have drawn air cooled 4V heads and cylinders with it so a lot is possible without having to repurchase the software every year.

Yes my problem with doing the extrude is that when I try in fusion 360 the image and lines don't match up and the extrusion fails. I only want it to be a max depth/height of about 2 to 3 inches off the wall or door. The image is pretty raw. wanted it to look more like this Gladiator-helmet — ImgBB that photo also is of someones 3D printed version. ( wonder if I could use the file somehow and scale it down to the dimension I need. )

As for the table for the majority of the cut outs I was thinking of double sided tape ( this stuff https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/89916027 ) and just leaving a small amount of material or tabs on the bottom side and just pushing them out then turning the part over and doing a finish cut on the bottom then do all my deburring etc by hand. ( seen many people use this tape instead of making a fixture and clamps to hold cut outs. )
I am more confused on the drilled holes on the sides as I am not sure the shop has any vice that is deep enough to hold the material I am sure I can get it figured out.

 

[magno_grail]

Never tried using tape to hold down a part. On the last cut that takes off surrounding stock I change from a climb to conventional cut so the cutter throws the excess away rather than into the part.
For the side holes use an angle plate.
That helmet looks fairly simple. the nose guard and eyebrows are flat extrusions stuck on at an angle. Make the cheek guards as inside/outside cylinders, make plan view cutaways, extrude them then cut away from the cylinders. worry about radii afterward.
Do you intend to machine it or print it? Machining you might have to machine from each side then the front to keep the step-overs small enough.

 

[Crowndroyal]

Never tried using tape to hold down a part. On the last cut that takes off surrounding stock I change from a climb to conventional cut so the cutter throws the excess away rather than into the part.
For the side holes use an angle plate.
That helmet looks fairly simple. the nose guard and eyebrows are flat extrusions stuck on at an angle. Make the cheek guards as inside/outside cylinders, make plan view cutaways, extrude them then cut away from the cylinders. worry about radii afterward.
Do you intend to machine it or print it? Machining you might have to machine from each side then the front to keep the step-overs small enough.

I plan on machining the sign yes. Would like to do it out of stainless but aluminum might be the better choice for a door. I will try making something up in fusion 360 again and see how it goes. I lack a lot of skill in that dept.

 

[len_1962]

As for the table for the majority of the cut outs I was thinking of double sided tape ( this stuff https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/89916027 ) and just leaving a small amount of material or tabs on the bottom side and just pushing them out then turning the part over and doing a finish cut on the bottom then do all my deburring etc by hand. ( seen many people use this tape instead of making a fixture and clamps to hold cut outs. )
I am more confused on the drilled holes on the sides as I am not sure the shop has any vice that is deep enough to hold the material I am sure I can get it figured out.

that's not a very good double sided tape for what you want it for.

I have been using double sided tape for over 35 years as a model maker holding down everything from foam to Titanium and the best I have found are these 2.

First is Nitto (formally Permacel) P02, this is what I use for plastics, MDF and metals, mostly aluminum after I skim cut one side to flatten and remove irregular surface. Nitto (Permacel) P-02 Double-Sided Kraft Paper Tape

this one is a little more sticky and can leave a residue after, it is from Bron Tapes this one is use on wood, foam and metals with rough surfaces or when extra hold is needed. BT-480 – Bron Tapes

and again use hot glue around edges to help give extra hold

 

[BugRobotics]

that's not a very good double sided tape for what you want it for.

I have been using double sided tape for over 35 years as a model maker holding down everything from foam to Titanium and the best I have found are these 2.

First is Nitto (formally Permacel) P02, this is what I use for plastics, MDF and metals, mostly aluminum after I skim cut one side to flatten and remove irregular surface. Nitto (Permacel) P-02 Double-Sided Kraft Paper Tape

this one is a little more sticky and can leave a residue after, it is from Bron Tapes this one is use on wood, foam and metals with rough surfaces or when extra hold is needed. BT-480 – Bron Tapes

and again use hot glue around edges to help give extra hold

Second vote for Nitto. I'll need to go get some BT-480, never used it

 

[len_1962]

Second vote for Nitto. I'll need to go get some BT-480, never used it

The P02 was better when it was Permacel, but still good.

BT-480 is about half the price of P02

 

[Crowndroyal]

that's not a very good double sided tape for what you want it for.

I have been using double sided tape for over 35 years as a model maker holding down everything from foam to Titanium and the best I have found are these 2.

First is Nitto (formally Permacel) P02, this is what I use for plastics, MDF and metals, mostly aluminum after I skim cut one side to flatten and remove irregular surface. Nitto (Permacel) P-02 Double-Sided Kraft Paper Tape

this one is a little more sticky and can leave a residue after, it is from Bron Tapes this one is use on wood, foam and metals with rough surfaces or when extra hold is needed. BT-480 – Bron Tapes

and again use hot glue around edges to help give extra hold

Thanks for the info, I was just using the image as an example. Not everyone knows you can use it or it's even a viable option.

 

[rcoope]

It looks like you already have a good CAD version of the Maximus logo for your laser cut(?) version in wood. Can you upload the CAD file for that that as a 2D DXF or a .STEP or .IGS file? For the Open Bench Table, it looks like you can download the .step files from their website, which I didn't want to do as I don't need to be on another mailing list. But if you do that you should be able to load the models straight into 360 shouldn't you? It looks very waterjettable but there are a bunch of holes and slots on the edges that will require a angle plate on a mill. I bet they make them on a 4 or 5 axis horizontal so they can make all the edge holes quickly.

 

[Crowndroyal]

It looks like you already have a good CAD version of the Maximus logo for your laser cut(?) version in wood. Can you upload the CAD file for that that as a 2D DXF or a .STEP or .IGS file? For the Open Bench Table, it looks like you can download the .step files from their website, which I didn't want to do as I don't need to be on another mailing list. But if you do that you should be able to load the models straight into 360 shouldn't you? It looks very waterjettable but there are a bunch of holes and slots on the edges that will require a angle plate on a mill. I bet they make them on a 4 or 5 axis horizontal so they can make all the edge holes quickly.

Hey sorry for the late reply.

I can try and find the laser cut file a friend of mine did it for me I believe I do have that file in a .step just have to find the right USB stick. I already have the files for the Bench Table and yes they do open in fusion 360. I was just wanting more clarification as to what setups and ops I would need to run on a intimidator 120 but I am sure I can get it figured out over time.

yes the Open Bench Table is done on a 5th axis I communicated with them on that. This is just me trying to push myself out of the ordinary day to day job that I do and try and learn some new stuff.


EDIT: uploaded and insertedAttention Required! | Cloudflare two files

 

[rcoope]

Doing what we might call "art projects" in solid modelling CAD software can rapidly get very complicated very fast but it critically depends on what you have for starting models. For the logo for example I would import the lettering as a 2D sketch for example, then extrude it. I'd then try to find a helmet I liked, either with multiple 2D views or a 3D model. You could try more or less merging the latter with the extruded text, and then fix it up to make it machinable. But fixing it up could be easy or an total death march depending on the nature of the starting model, and whether you needed to get into surface editing, or are working with extruded solids. You'd definitely want to start with a .step or an .igs rather than an .stl which is generally a huge headache for CAD. I'm a solidworks person. What was the issue with the Open Bench Table? Just the Fusion 360 CAM or were you having trouble with the CAD as well?

 

[Crowndroyal]

Doing what we might call "art projects" in solid modelling CAD software can rapidly get very complicated very fast but it critically depends on what you have for starting models. For the logo for example I would import the lettering as a 2D sketch for example, then extrude it. I'd then try to find a helmet I liked, either with multiple 2D views or a 3D model. You could try more or less merging the latter with the extruded text, and then fix it up to make it machinable. But fixing it up could be easy or an total death march depending on the nature of the starting model, and whether you needed to get into surface editing, or are working with extruded solids. You'd definitely want to start with a .step or an .igs rather than an .stl which is generally a huge headache for CAD. I'm a solidworks person. What was the issue with the Open Bench Table? Just the Fusion 360 CAM or were you having trouble with the CAD as well?

Open Bench Table
Nothing wrong with the CAD at all I got the CAD files directly from the company 3D model and all.. Only problem with that was the actual set ups for machining it on an INTIMIDATOR 120 with minimal setup for each OP. I have a good idea already of what I need to do, my main concern was the smaller pieces that fit into the table and the holes etc for setup but even that is pretty straight forward. Was just going to do them all individually in a vice.

I uploaded 2 different .stl files in my previous post of the sign for my sons door. Pretty sure I have enough to work with now. I had a friend help me with that but the program he uses is more for animation and not CAD he can export into .OBJ .MA .X3D .STL .WRL .FBX
.STL loads fine into Fusion 360 but the letters have a crap ton of lines in them not exactly sure why they show up though.

 

[rcoope]

STL is hopeless for CAD. There's are programs that can take an STL and get back to a reasonable 3D file, Geomagic Design X is an example, but they are not common and not cheap. If you can get that output in the 3D equivalent of a vector file, like .igs or .step, you can modify it in CAD, though even then certain 3D shapes can get complicated fast.

 

[memphisjed]

STL is hopeless for CAD. There's are programs that can take an STL and get back to a reasonable 3D file, Geomagic Design X is an example, but they are not common and not cheap. If you can get that output in the 3D equivalent of a vector file, like .igs or .step, you can modify it in CAD, though even then certain 3D shapes can get complicated fast.

Viacad pro does stl to nurb with relatively low node counts (50k ish). Expensive items from years ago are now prosumer level. Less than a thousand for perpetual use.
It takes a lot of setting fiddling and processing time each time you do it- but it works. One of the uses when a massive double shot grande cpu looks tempting.

 

[Crowndroyal]

I found this which seems very hopeful
I will try this out and get back to everyone
Fusion 360 .STL | Convert