Without further details the way I am envisioning this part or assembly is:
A right circular cylinder of some diameter.
The cylinder is cut into two cylinders at right angles to the long axis.
One of the cylinders is drilled and tapped on one end.
The other cylinder is turned and threaded on one end.
Both cylinders can now be screwed together to form a single cylinder, same as the original stock but a bit shorter.
If the assembled cylinder is carefully made and screwed tightly together it can be turned from end to end on the lathe. This will make the seam between the two halves practically invisible.
With what appears to be a single cylinder... scribe, etch, engrave a grid pattern over the surface of the cylinder.
Since the grid pattern is scribed onto the assembly while assembled you are insured that it 'lines up'. BUT if you disassemble the two halves of the cylinder and then screw them back together again the odds of the grid patter lining up perfectly again are not very good. Take it apart and put it back together again multiple times and the alignment of the pattern will drift considerably. This is due to all sort of factors... wear in the threads, temperature, wear in the seating surfaces, variations in torque to assemble... even if the torque is meticulously kept constant it is still unlikely that the cylinders will ever re-align their grid patterns perfectly.
Yet, in a way, we do this all the time when we zero a micrometer. A micrometer with clean carbide faces will return to zero ( the zero tick on the thimble aligns with the 1/10" line on the barrel ) consistently for years. Even when frequently used. The repeatability in the zero setting of a micrometer is achieved by having a consistent torque limiter (ratchet or friction thimble, 'feel') and fine precision ground threads that are kept clean, and finely finished, very hard, and easy to clean mating surfaces (the anvils) and more-or-less consistent temperatures when zeroing.
If the "grid" in a micrometer becomes mis-aligned we can adjust it. Usually by turning the barrel slightly with a special wrench or adjusting the the fixed anvil, or adjusting the relationship between the thimble and the threaded rod slightly. On a digital mic just press the zero button.
When micrometers are made I don't think they "time the threads" so that marks on the thimble align with the marks on the barrel. I would guess that most micrometer thimbles are not interchangeable.
Well anyhow... just trying to think through the problem.
-DU-