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Possible types of steel for this bushing plus alternative recommendations

I would be tempted to buy the bushings you indicated that are a little long, this way you have stock that already has a thru hole and outside diameter, your friend just needs to part it off. I have modified pins and bushings from tractor supply a couple of times. They also sell steel shafting, not sure if its big enough.
If you end up buying stock, depending on what your friend has for a lathe he might appreciate a piece of stock several inches longer than the bushing so he has something to grab with the lathe chuck. I know this is not the question you asked...
 
I would be tempted to buy the bushings you indicated that are a little long, this way you have stock that already has a thru hole and outside diameter, your friend just needs to part it off. I have modified pins and bushings from tractor supply a couple of times. They also sell steel shafting, not sure if its big enough.
If you end up buying stock, depending on what your friend has for a lathe he might appreciate a piece of stock several inches longer than the bushing so he has something to grab with the lathe chuck. I know this is not the question you asked...

I was about to type that myself, until I saw that you beat me to it.
 
I would be tempted to buy the bushings you indicated that are a little long, this way you have stock that already has a thru hole and outside diameter, your friend just needs to part it off. I have modified pins and bushings from tractor supply a couple of times. They also sell steel shafting, not sure if its big enough.
If you end up buying stock, depending on what your friend has for a lathe he might appreciate a piece of stock several inches longer than the bushing so he has something to grab with the lathe chuck. I know this is not the question you asked...
At $45 a pair for bushings, that'd be $180 for the 4 sets I need. There are packs for 10 on Amazon, but the metal type isn't specified. I can buy a 3' length of 1144 from McMaster for $98 including shipping. That also gives me stock for any additional ones I might need later. At Tractor Supply, as far as rod stock goes, they don't have anything larger than 1". I know that I can also get steel rod from a local metal supplier, although I don't know what they have access to as far as specific type (4140, 1144, etc).
 
At $45 a pair for bushings, that'd be $180 for the 4 sets I need. There are packs for 10 on Amazon, but the metal type isn't specified. I can buy a 3' length of 1144 from McMaster for $98 including shipping. That also gives me stock for any additional ones I might need later. At Tractor Supply, as far as rod stock goes, they don't have anything larger than 1". I know that I can also get steel rod from a local metal supplier, although I don't know what they have access to as far as specific type (4140, 1144, etc).

They are available way cheaper elsewhere. I've seen $35 for a set of 4 IIRC. Also it will probably buy an awful lot of good will from your machinist friend that you can use for something you might actually *need* to have machined from scratch later. Jus' sayin'...
 
I think it depends a lot on what kind of equipment your friend has. I have a old manual lathe that can drill a 7/8 diameter hole 2 or 3 inches deep in steel but it would be annoying and take awhile, guessing 1/2 hr each. I might end up using a couple of different cutting tools to get there. I am sure a bigger more powerful lathe with more expensive tooling could do it a lot faster. The 1 1/2 stock would not fit thru my spindle so I would end up cutting pieces off with a cutoff saw so they would fit in the chuck. A bigger machine could take the 3 ft bar and drill and cut off each piece.
You might also be able to buy stock that has a hole in the middle, sort of like a very heavy pipe but I don't remember what its called, pretty expensive.
 
I think I'd set the dog on you if you showed up on my doorstep with a chunk of round stock to make those bushings LOL.. Especially knowing what it costs to buy them. More work than it's worth.

I gotta deal going. Rebuilding an approximately $1200 assembly(cost of new replacement IIRC). I'll have about $200 in it by the time it's out the door. THAT is worth the hassle of machining. And, I damn sure ain't tallying up the cost of my labor.

I don't mean to be an asshole, but your friend might not be too pleased.
 
I think it depends a lot on what kind of equipment your friend has. I have a old manual lathe that can drill a 7/8 diameter hole 2 or 3 inches deep in steel but it would be annoying and take awhile, guessing 1/2 hr each. I might end up using a couple of different cutting tools to get there. I am sure a bigger more powerful lathe with more expensive tooling could do it a lot faster. The 1 1/2 stock would not fit thru my spindle so I would end up cutting pieces off with a cutoff saw so they would fit in the chuck. A bigger machine could take the 3 ft bar and drill and cut off each piece.
You might also be able to buy stock that has a hole in the middle, sort of like a very heavy pipe but I don't remember what its called, pretty expensive.
It's called DOM, and it's mondo pricey in larger diameters. 2" OD x .500 wall can run around $150 for 42" + freight. It saves on the work for boring though. But it's still way too much to spend for something that's off the shelf that's available for less.
 
Buy the cheap bushings on amz. It doesn’t say what kind of steal because it doesn’t matter. This kind of pin bushing type stuff for agriculture has been pouring off the same old screw machines for the better part of a century. All made from the softest steel that qualifies for the category.
 
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DOM, I bought a chunk years ago to repair a PTO post hole digger, the local steel supply shop sold it by the inch, the guy in back sent me up to the office to get a price before he would cut it off. I am glad he did because I bought just the length I needed instead of "just give me a foot or so of that stuff".
 
This is not a home shop thread. This is a next door to the home shop thread.
I go to farm sales on the last day and buy sticks of larger size metal that is laying around the barn/shop. Useful to have for home shop harry for jobs like these.
Bill D
 
This is such like a home shop machinist thread, it hurts to read it !!!
Oh, come on Doozer. Nobody wants to argue with you? I'll argue with you. Hmm...okay, this is a good one!

1018 does not suck to machine.
It is soft-ish and easy to machine.
You have to manage your variables
to get a good finish, but saying it sucks
is a bit hyperbolic.
Yes, 1018 sucks. 1018 is the store brand vanilla ice cream of steels. That's why I asked the questions. There isn't a single property about it that makes it desirable except "they have it" when you're standing at the metal place.

That was why I asked about the corrosion resistance of the other materials. 1144 isn't much more expensive, nearly double the strength and easier to machine. I have tooling I made out of 12L14 and 1144. It runs in coolant and gets wiped and stored in bins. None of it rusted. That's why I was surprised about what others posted.

You say 1018 doesn't suck to machine but, then go on to say it's easy to machine and you have to manage your variables. We could say that about virtually any material: manage the variables. If I'm going to manage variables, I'll variable on over to a better material. If I'm going to deal with a fussy material, I want it to at least be stronger than 1018. Maybe a 4000 series? Heck, 7075 aluminum is stronger than 1018.

On the venn diagram of which material to choose, 1018 is in the center where it does nothing well but, seems to be on the rack because someone didn't know what else to pick or buy.

Is that a little less 'home machinist'? :D
(I really was going to let it go but, since you seem to be in a mood to discuss, I'm all ears)
 
I may sound like I am disagreeable, but I really do enjoy the discourse.
It is more about interaction with people and to see how tight or loose
they are with their perception of the reality they have constructed.
People's brains just need answers. The brain does not necessarily
need the right answer. Just an answer that it can justify to one's self
even if it is wrong by most standards.
See you categorize 1018 as difficult to machine. You in your mind are
perfectly correct. In my mind, I have machined way more awful steel
than 1018. So to me, 1018 is not too bad. It is one's experiences with life
that shape how relative good or bad something is. Go machine some titanium and come cry to me. See?
If we can not put pounds, volts, degrees or inches to something, having
differing opinions will continue to happen. Today people turn yes or no
things into an argument. Is she a woman or is it not a woman. No wonder
there is so much hate in this world. People try to disagree on things because they feel disrespected in some way, so they have to resort to
bring ridiculous with their logic and try an argue stupidity to try and wear
down the people they do not agree with. And bring stupidity into an argument usually pisses off the other party, and then we have a partisan
divide of dueling ideologies. Then all the loners and followers want to be
part of the fun, and they join the ridiculous train. Welcome to America.
Believe in this. Here is a check. Vote for me.

-Doozer
 
DOM, I bought a chunk years ago to repair a PTO post hole digger, the local steel supply shop sold it by the inch, the guy in back sent me up to the office to get a price before he would cut it off. I am glad he did because I bought just the length I needed instead of "just give me a foot or so of that stuff".
DOM isnt bad at all, about $10-20 a foot. Try to source chrome moly roll cage........ $700 a 20 ft stick plus shipping across the border to the tune of $500 or so.
 








 
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