Reducing kerf of carbide tipped band saw blade on surface grinder?

[bjmh46]

I'm getting a great surface now with the stock geometry, .005" cleanup in wide belt sander to remove all traces. Were you getting resonance with the aggressive cut? I found that having the correct tension on the blade made a huge difference, the scales on most saws are useless, need a tension gauge to get it right. I have to bottom out the spring, and then keep cranking on my Powermatic. The Tannewitz was pretty accurate, what a great saw that was!

I got a decent surface with the 10° standard geometry. I do use a (indicator based) tension gage, and tension to 25,000-28,000 psi. The work surface after the 7°grind was/is so much better, that I routinely grind new blades this way. I'm sure that part of the improvement is due to the fact that the blade is much sharper. To me, it's well worth the time it takes to grind a blade.

Regards
Bob

 

[richard newman]

Thanks Bob, makes me kinda wish I had a T & C grinder, I'd give it a try for sure, sharper is always better!

I could probably kludge something together with a die grinder or even the dremel and do it with the blade in the saw. Wouldn't be as precise, but might still improve things.

 

[michiganbuck]

Going into the gullet with a parting wheel on the surface grinder is also an option. I don't know how that might affect the carbide whatever might be on the tooth face. This might straight slash..or make two runs at perhaps 15*.

This might be really good to do to a used/dull blade so getting a second use...at a decreased wdth.

With 3TPI it would be a fairly fast job.

 

[richard newman]

Buck, that's a tempting idea! I've given up on the carbide for health reasons, so this would be a M42 bi-metallic blade, 4 tpi. The straight slash would be preferable for a ripping cut, so no problem there. Would be 600 teeth, might only require a few thousandths to sharpen.

How much could I take off in one pass?

What sort of wheel would be best? Would aluminum oxide hold up for that many cuts, or would I want Borazon?

 

[michiganbuck]

Buck, that's a tempting idea! I've given up on the carbide for health reasons, so this would be a M42 bi-metallic blade, 4 tpi. The straight slash would be preferable for a ripping cut, so no problem there. Would be 600 teeth, might only require a few thousandths to sharpen.

How much could I take off in one pass?

What sort of wheel would be best? Would aluminum oxide hold up for that many cuts, or would I want Borazon?

I was thinking about an abrasive chop saw wheel. Reinforced ones resist breaking, but run a little hotter.
likey need build a simple jig to hold the blade at perhaps a 30* angle to fit the saw blade gullet.
hand dress the radius to the wheel and likey that radius will wear in and be maintained by the saw.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...Desc=0&_odkw=abrasive+parting+wheel&_osacat=0

I now wear a good mask for grinding.. I use to test diamond wheels and many would be surprised at some not so good things that were in the bonding.


Still, I think a vise might bend the blade set to the desired width..I think that it is not real carbide and but just a coating of sorts.
A flat jaw vise with a spacer would be fast and easy. Yes, experiment with the spacer width.