Tang issues in Mauser 98 build project

[Ontario Hunter]

I'm looking for some info on a potential issue. Last year I built a 404 Jeffery on a 98 Mauser (Brno vz.24). The barrel was from Lidja in Montana and bottom metal was 416 Rem magnum from Swift-Blackburn. Bolt face was opened up by a local machinist and I did the rest. Project was completed in time for my August African safari (4th).

Recently I acquired a very nice used 98 Mauser stock to upgrade. Everything went well fitting my action into this stock until the very end. The tangs bottom and top will not pull together tight into stock slots. Not even close. This stock is obviously for a commercial action. The rear action screw socket is peened closed on the end to prevent the action screw from threading into the striker sear track and binding the bolt during opening. So I shortened the action screw (ground some off the end) to allow the tangs to be pulled together further. That helped but then the top of the magazine box bottomed out on the receiver. Timney trigger tip was also bottoming against the trigger guard. I happen to have another scrap commercial Mauser stock (broken and glued back together for stock making machine form). I checked the action screw holes for both and they are the same depth, about 0.03mm less than the tightest distance between tangs with mag box bottomed against the receiver.

So, I'm wondering if commercial Mausers had stocks significantly narrower through the wrist than military Mausers? Is the commercial magazine shorter in height? Unfortunately, I no longer have the military bottom metal to compare with Swift version but I can see from placement of corrosion on rear action screw threads that the Swift and military bottom metals must be very similar depth at rear. There is plenty of room remaining in the magazine box when fully loaded with three rounds so I'm sure I could cut down the back sides and end of the box without affecting capacity. However, going back to the other stock if it doesn't work out might be a problem as end plate for magazine would be shortened which might cause issues with pushing shells into the magazine getting hung up. Shortening the box will not affect cycling which has been perfected in rails, ramp, and extractor modifications. I suppose I could always remove some meat from the wrist of that stock and make it work if needed. The Timney trigger will be an easy fix. Trigger is steel. I will simply heat and reshape it as needed. Mechanism is all metal so nothing to melt.

Any thoughts would be appreciated before I decide to start grinding metal. Perhaps both "commercial" stocks were for another Mauser variant, not 98?

 

[GGaskill]

It is my understanding that there have been several different lengths of Mauser actions over the years.

This may be the source of your problem.

 

[john.k]

Are you on 'gunboards' forum? ....Your questions will be answered there in the relevant sections by experts.........and yes,there are two different length military actions

 

[???]

So, I'm wondering if commercial Mausers had stocks significantly narrower through the wrist than military Mausers?

Whats the width, I'm picking up a lathe next week and the son was showing off his Mauser to my mate. I'll take a measurement. Offhand I would say that the hunting rifle stocks would have a smaller dimension, military rifles cop a lot of abuse. Most hunters don't spend a lot of time applying butts to foreheads and using the weapon for other non traditional purposes.

 

[akajun]

Not an uncommon issue, even in “ as issued” surplus guns, the wood has dried out over 80?years or compressed, so now the action sits on top of the bottom metal and rocks because it won’t torque down properly
Couple ways to go about it.
First thing
Make sure the little metal pillar/ sleeve is in the rear action screw hole in the stock and it is long enough to keep the back of the mag box off the receiver. If it’s not I make them from threaded tube and put a slot on the bottom end, then drill the hole out enough to engage the threads, and screw it in out enough to get everything sitting like I want. The front screw can be brought back up with wood venier shims epoxied in place on the flat where the receiver sits
Other option is to grind the top of the pillar the front screw goes in on the bottom metal to give u clearance.
Last Nd best option is to glass bed the action, you’ll still need the rear pillar and you’ll still need space between the front collar and receiver so you get compression but will no longer crush the wood if you do it right