crossthread82
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2022
- Location
- Maryland
JM studs are where its at. I use the loctite just for some reassurance do to the low torque being used. It's surprising how little torque will start to deform the taper, this becomes even more critical in dual contact machines where a little taper swell will cause the faces to not touch.I used to run Techniks holders & studs in my VF-3 torqued to 50lb/ft, I'd get fretting all the time when roughing steel. I sold all that stuff and switched to Mari Tool holders and JM Performance HT pull studs on everything. I then lightly polished my spindle taper with grey scotch brite and the problem went away.
Since then I've been using the JM Performance HT pull studs for 8 years. The HT studs actually call for even less torque. The torque table printed in each package lists different specs depending on your machines actual draw bar force:
40 taper:
(draw bar / pull stud)
1600 lbs - 20.0 ft/lbs
1800 lbs - 22.5 ft/lbs
2000 lbs - 25.0 ft/lbs
2200 lbs - 27.5 ft/lbs
2400 lbs - 30.0 ft/lbs
I'm running all Mari Tool holders with the JM studs torqued to 25 ft/lbs, no lock tight, just really clean then one spray of rust preventative before installation. Running in a VF-3 they work great, I've never had one loosen off or fail. I do not grease the pull studs exterior as haas reccomends, rather I grease one pull-stud monthly and clamp/un-clamp 7-8 times to get some lube up in the balls. Then I clean all the bulk off that pull stud and continue as usual.