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Making you own ball joint.

I have seen many things. I have seen people driving with loose ones. I have seen balls that were brszed in. Welded ones.
The circlip ones I have not seen yet.
I never seen bonce cups where the balls fit only steel ones.

Interesting on most tie rod ends I saw neither the balls nor the seats are hardened. You can actually make scratches on them with a file. On my cars most of them failed because whater went into them. Looks like the most important is the quality of the rubber on the tie rod ends.
 
I am thinking of using the V155 a stainless steel that is also used for knives. Does not need to be hardened. Wonder how difficult it is to machine with a small lathe.
 
Just spoke to my client. He said that they change the part on the different models so you can't use a later one. The later models have a taper with a nut holding the ball on. He thought it was a really bad idea to make your own ball, if you experience a sudden failure at 120 km/h you are going to do some serious damage. In Australia the Hilux is known as the Rollux for a good reason.The OEM parts are forged and heat treated as per my friend that worked with me at Bishop where we built tooling and machines for steering rack production. Personally I would modify the assembly to take a later ball and socket. I am not risk averse, I'm the guy that had a ball joint come apart on a Mini driving up Sani Pass which even the locals on donkeys fear. I stole some barbed wire off a farmers fence and wired it on and then drove through the night to where I could weld it as a temporary repair.
 
I am thinking of using the V155 a stainless steel that is also used for knives. Does not need to be hardened. Wonder how difficult it is to machine with a small lathe.
The V155 for this is the equivalent of Sanderson's MCV they don't machine well in the soft condition as they tear very easily. I used MCV/V155 to manufacture chuck spindles for tapping machines at GUD filters in Durban. Hardened and then turned with a Ceramic, I've got one in the Haas made it in 1992 and still growing strong despite all the abuse I gave it.
 
I live in Namibia looks like shipping cost is going to make it too expensive. Interesting though that it is still available in other countries.
For answering questions, it's important to know that you are in Namibia.

I'd suggest updating your user profile here such that "Location: Namibia" displays under your disk icon on the left.
 
Yaah But..... tiny lathe? .......Id think maybe build up the wear with weld ,top off with hard face rod ,and use the trusty 5" angle grinder for a precision finish
 
For answering questions, it's important to know that you are in Namibia.

I'd suggest updating your user profile here such that "Location: Namibia" displays under your disk icon on the left.
Just use Nam' that's what we called it when I was based there in the military. Going home was referred to as catching a Flossie (C 130) back to the States. :)
 
. In Australia the Hilux is known as the Rollux for a good reason.

Got a friend in the geology/surveying industry, one of his claims to fame was rolling and writing off the first Hilux in the UK.

that was before he rolled a couple of Escorts rallying around Essex
 
Isn't "Nam" back then Vietnam?
No. First it was German South West Africa then just South West Africa the South West Africa/Namibia and after independence Namibia. Soldiers just shortened it to 'Nam. Probably had something to do with the Vietnam war also and movies etc.
 
Just spoke to my client. He said that they change the part on the different models so you can't use a later one. The later models have a taper with a nut holding the ball on. He thought it was a really bad idea to make your own ball, if you experience a sudden failure at 120 km/h you are going to do some serious damage. In Australia the Hilux is known as the Rollux for a good reason.The OEM parts are forged and heat treated as per my friend that worked with me at Bishop where we built tooling and machines for steering rack production. Personally I would modify the assembly to take a later ball and socket. I am not risk averse, I'm the guy that had a ball joint come apart on a Mini driving up Sani Pass which even the locals on donkeys fear. I stole some barbed wire off a farmers fence and wired it on and then drove through the night to where I could weld it as a temporary repair.
Thanks for the info.
Looks like on this part OEM is really worth it. My guess is no engineering shop will forge those balls.

So my conclusion is to use a part from a later model and do a modification would be a better solution.

Which part from a later model would work on a 1988 Hilux?

What modifications would it need?
Butting a tapered bush into the hole where the old part was?
 
Butting a tapered bush into the hole where the old part was?

That's what I would do, then weld it in. What attaches to the ball on the pitman arm? It looks like a very strange steering set up.

You can grind a tapered reamer for ball joints from an endmill if you've got a tool grinder. You may be able to knock out that ball and ream the hole to the correct size and avoid using a bushing.
 
Is
Thanks for the info.
Looks like on this part OEM is really worth it. My guess is no engineering shop will forge those balls.

So my conclusion is to use a part from a later model and do a modification would be a better solution.

Which part from a later model would work on a 1988 Hilux?

What modifications would it need?
Butting a tapered bush into the hole where the old part was?
There a mechanic in Opuwa or even a scrap yard you could take your existing parts and do some comparison then get new ones when you get to Windhoek. I'll go past my customer on the way in to my workshop and check if he has parts I can give you numbers on.
 








 
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