Need a fast, portable way to destroy socket head cap screws.

[Imechura]

Hello,
I have a number of industrial machines that are destined for scrap. Ive been working on removing the electronic controls, drives, etc but it's taking a very long time mainly due to fiddling with hundreds of stainless socket head cap screws that are holding everything together.

I don't need to keep the screws and I don't need to reuse the threads/holes. I am trying to find a way to efficiently remove the screw heads by grinding, leverage, cutting, heating or any other means.

Some of the screws will be countersunk but most are exposed however usually not with great access.

I do not want to damage the sensitive components that might be a few inches away from the screw.

So far I've tried removing them with Allen wrenches, Allen sockets on an impact driver. Drilling them out with a hand drill work hardened the screws to the point where nothing could cut it. They are very prone to stripping and it's taking way too long.

They range in size from M4 to M8 for the most part.

I'm not coming up with any ideas. Does anyone else have any?

Thanks,
Ian

 

[Imechura]

I can probably get away with burning some of them out with plasma but i don't think I have power to run my plasma where the machines are right now. I would need a 150 ft 220v extension cord.

 

[boslab]

Tried unscrewing them lol, ok I get it, the alternates take as long if not longer than actually unscrewing, in work I would have balled the machines ( drop a 15 ton cast steel ball from 35’ up, I saw lathes exploded ( sad face)
Just cut the machines up with a gas axe if it’s scrap)
Who cares about screws running over with a D11 is fun too,
I remember trying to get rid of a trainload of cast ingot moulds, we were told to dig a pit, dump them in and an explosives “ expert” was going to blow the iron casting.
The charges were set and the pit flooded, ‘ expert’ pressed the thingy …kaboom ( here’d 5 miles away) how the dildo didn’t kill someone ill never know, 2 ton pieces were raining down 1/2 mile away.
He was pissed he never got paid, we asked for demolition and got castle bravo on Morfa beach.
Mark

 

[Joe Gwinn]

Drill out with a left-hand HSS drill bit run slow and hard, with black sulfur cutting oil.

 

[Nmbmxer]

I would try these kind of damaged screw extractors:

 

[Garwood]

Air chisel. Either chisel the heads off or beat the heads with a flat bit, then hammer an Allen socket into then hex.

Also, hand impact drivers are the shit for this stuff if you need to save everything. I've disassembled some very rusty junk with shcs by rattling the heads with the air chisel then using the hand impact tool.

By hand impact driver I mean the tool you hit with a hammer, not the Dewalt or Milwaukee tool.

 

[Gordon Heaton]

On the smaller ones where the heads are exposed you can knock the head off with a hammer and chisel, or if you have air, an air chisel.

Dang, Garwood! You musta been a half second quicker on the draw!

 

[Mud]

+3 for the chisel. I'm thinking of something really HD, like a demolition hammer and a handful of long sharp single angle chisels so you can change them as they dull.

 

[surplusjohn]

Tried unscrewing them lol, ok I get it, the alternates take as long if not longer than actually unscrewing, in work I would have balled the machines ( drop a 15 ton cast steel ball from 35’ up, I saw lathes exploded ( sad face)
Just cut the machines up with a gas axe if it’s scrap)
Who cares about screws running over with a D11 is fun too,
I remember trying to get rid of a trainload of cast ingot moulds, we were told to dig a pit, dump them in and an explosives “ expert” was going to blow the iron casting.
The charges were set and the pit flooded, ‘ expert’ pressed the thingy …kaboom ( here’d 5 miles away) how the dildo didn’t kill someone ill never know, 2 ton pieces were raining down 1/2 mile away.
He was pissed he never got paid, we asked for demolition and got castle bravo on Morfa beach.
Mark

o

 

[Spruewell]

Get a small hole saw just big enough to fit the bolt head inside of it. cut around the bolt and pull the panel out

 

[moonlight machine]

Sounds like you need a Milwaukee 18V drill with the appropriate size allen socket.
If you are trying to save electronics I would think they would be ruined by the more brutal methods suggested.

 

[EPAIII]

SS cap screws are not as strong as the black oxide ones. I would soak with penetrating oil (Kroil is my favorite). Come back the next day with a greatly oversized, impact driver set to the max. The screw should either come out or break off in a second or two.

 

[Bill D]

Would a rivet shaver do it?
Bill D

 

[Cole2534]

Drill out with a left-hand HSS drill bit run slow and hard, with black sulfur cutting oil.

What size? Small so the drill fit inside the socket or large enough so the flutes extended past the head's diameter?

 

[Joe Gwinn]

What size? Small so the drill fit inside the socket or large enough so the flutes extended past the head's diameter?

I was thinking the largest size that won't catch on the socket walls and break, the idea being that you'll likely unscrew the screw, the usual intent being to avoid damaging the female thread. Given that preservation is not required, I'd use a larger size, one that will span the socket pocket and so won't catch on the socket walls. And the bigger the drill, the stronger it will be.

 

[steve45]

Perhaps you could grip them with Vampliers and just break them off.

 

[EPAIII]

I doubt it. Black oxide SHCSs may snap, but SS ones will probably bend without breaking.

Like I said, over-torque them with an impact driver. They will either come out or twist in half. QUICKLY!

Perhaps you could grip them with Vampliers and just break them off.

 

[steve45]

I doubt it. Black oxide SHCSs may snap, but SS ones will probably bend without breaking.

Like I said, over-torque them with an impact driver. They will either come out or twist in half. QUICKLY!

I don't think the Vampire solution is the best, but I think that with the impact driver the socket in the head would warp and you'd have to fight it to remove it from the bit.

I think just unscrewing them with a driver is the best way.

 

[Gordon Heaton]

. . .I think just unscrewing them with a driver is the best way.

He tried that, said the sockets were prone to stripping and causing a lot of grief.

 

[EPAIII]

And that's why I think intermittent impacts may succeed where constant pressure failed. Specially after an overnight soak with Kroil.

I think the OP will have to try one suggestion after another until something works or he finds that this is something that will take a lot of time. Hence, the more suggestions, the better.

Perhaps Kroil soak, then impact driver, then a second Kroil soak and the impact driver again might work.

He tried that, said the sockets were prone to stripping and causing a lot of grief.