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stubborn hydraulic tilt cylinder overhaul

tomjelly

Stainless
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Location
GA
Now that the Clark is running and driving, I just received the hydraulic seal kits. I removed the first tilt cylinder and removed the gland nut, which tightens against a metal plate to retain the gland assembly- but I'm having trouble pulling the gland out...with the cylinder stretched out by my stacker (which has no problem toting a bridgeport) it moves out about 1/16", then back in when pull is released. Adding 100psi air at the same time(I know, dangerous, but done with the nut backed way off to catch it) did nothing. The air and stacker combined equal about 3000lbs of pulling force. The piston seal inside and the gland seal are both leaking badly, or I would have used the forklift hydraulics to push it out, but I want to avoid the oil gusher that would result. I'm contemplating using a pressure washer to pop this thing out but figured I'd look for tips before I do that. I'd put the gland nut partially back on with enough slack for it to move. The rod moves in and out fine. There are no pin holes in the face of the gland (and no reason for it to be threaded as the cap is what holds it on, plus it is moving, though very slightly) So what say you?
 

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Put the threaded cap back on the cylinder. Attach the hoses. Stroke the cylinder several times to get the air out, keep the fittings up. Loosen out the gland about 1/2" Then extend the cylinder, with the machines hydraulics, until you hear it pop out.
 
Unfortunately the seals were leaking so badly that I couldn't do that. In the end I just attached one end to the forklift and the other end to my tractor and it came right out. I thought the the side shift (2" or so dia) cylinder was going to be even more of a pain until I realized that it had TWO retainers, an outer circlip on the gland to keep the gland from moving IN, which you remove, then push the gland IN, then remove a circular cross section wire expanding ring from the cylinder ID that keeps the gland from moving OUT.
 

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Hydraulic repair is a dirty job, You got to be a black smith, welder, machinist, But the pay is amaz$ing.
 
all worked out, I had to clamp the piston in a vise and use a string looped thru the seal to stretch it over the piston
 

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Yes, the string trick works, but next time get you a piece of plastic banding, works much better.
 
Ah yes the narrow stuff like they use to hold together bundles of usps priority mail boxes. Would slip thru easier probably, its about 1/4" wide and maybe 1/32" thick
 








 
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