WADE 10- B ( 3 JAW CHUCK DOES NOT WANT TO ATTACH )

[miketig]

Any older machinist out there familiar with Wade lathes ? I have a Wade 10b and I am having trouble with attaching the 3 jaw chuck, the locking mechanism on the back of the chuck does not want to engage onto threads. All threads are clean and not marred, is there any way of adjusting the line up of the threads ? The chuck has printed on it (( line up lines to Lock )), only problem is there are no lines. Any help from a knowledgeable old-timer would be greatly appreciated !! actually any help from anyone would be appreciated

 

[L Vanice]

See chuck mounting instructions on page 13 of the 8A manual.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2132/23501.pdf

Wade seems to have had a unique spindle nose design based on the American taper A2-3" with a large fine thread to pull the chuck on to the short taper. I had an 8A about 40 years ago, but sold it before running it or trying to find a chuck. I have no recollection of the spindle beyond the collet feature, but it might have had a conventional threaded nose.

Larry

 

[Bill D]

How big is the chuck? If it is big and heavy maybe a board and shims to hold it the correct height will help allow for fine tuning motions rather then ham fisted blows.
Bill D

 

[miketig]

How big is the chuck? If it is big and heavy maybe a board and shims to hold it the correct height will help allow for fine tuning motions rather then ham fisted blows.
Bill D

5" but its still heavy, yes I shimed it up but the locking ring just will not thread, I tried one of the face plates with the same locking ring style and it went on with some effort . I checked and cleaned all threads on the chuck, I was able at one point to get the locking ring to thread on but had to draw the chuck out a tiny bit in order for the threads to engage but the result was the chuck did not want to pull tight against the machine. There are some allen screws on the back of the chuck, my thought is that they adjust the right amount offset depth between the locking ring and the mounting threads, but at this moment still no luck. I would be great if someone was familiar with this particular machine the only problem is that they say only three of them are known to be around. Of course all of this is further complicated by trying to do this without the ring pin wrench!
mike t

 

[neilho]

As Larry posted, the 10b uses the same chuck locking mechanism as the "late model" 8a's, also the 94's, so there are quite a few of them around. The system does work well, but the lack of chuck backplates on the market is a bit of a pisser.

It's differential threading at work - the locking ring threads onto the spindle nose with a coarse thread and off the chuck with a fine(r) thread, so the net effect advances the chuck towards the spindle nose with a lot of mechanical advantage, so to speak.

There is a setscrew (or maybe 2? can't remember) in the spindle side of the locking ring that limits the ring range of travel. Take that out and the ring is free to move farther. Rotate the ring 180 degrees from its original position and try it again. You may have to rotate the ring the other way on the chuck before finding the right starting position, but likely there is a position that works. But if not, removing the locating pin gives even more options. Be careful not to run the lathe in reverse if you do that :-)

I'm guessing here, but the allen screws might just be the mounting screws for the chuck?

 

[miketig]

As Larry posted, the 10b uses the same chuck locking mechanism as the "late model" 8a's, also the 94's, so there are quite a few of them around. The system does work well, but the lack of chuck backplates on the market is a bit of a pisser.

It's differential threading at work - the locking ring threads onto the spindle nose with a coarse thread and off the chuck with a fine(r) thread, so the net effect advances the chuck towards the spindle nose with a lot of mechanical advantage, so to speak.

There is a setscrew (or maybe 2? can't remember) in the spindle side of the locking ring that limits the ring range of travel. Take that out and the ring is free to move farther. Rotate the ring 180 degrees from its original position and try it again. You may have to rotate the ring the other way on the chuck before finding the right starting position, but likely there is a position that works. But if not, removing the locating pin gives even more options. Be careful not to run the lathe in reverse if you do that :-)

I'm guessing here, but the allen screws might just be the mounting screws for the chuck?

Thanks, That seems to be the avenue I was at with it last, your description of the mechanics of it was "dead on exactly" as of right now I have not got it on, My next attempt will be exactly the same as you described hopefully I will get it to work. At the moment I am trying to get A Pratt- Whitney Model-B 13 x30 running because of the chuck issue with the Wade. Do you have any familiarity with the Pratt Whitney? I really am not very familiar with operating these machines but am a fast learner so any knowledge is welcomed, I am trying to figure out how to engage and disengage.
Mike T

 

[neilho]

I'm a Wade guy. Don't know nothin' 'bout no Pratt & Whitney :-)

 

[miketig]

I'm a Wade guy. Don't know nothin' 'bout no Pratt & Whitney :-)

 

[miketig]

Thanks Again, Your method worked, I am thinking that the machine is so precise that it took a bit of doing. I was able to turn it and lock it in with a make shift pin wrench after rotateing the threads in a few different positions. Hey any machinist advise on what would be a good clearance between bushings and pins in a rebuild for a loader on a tractor ?
Mike T