Advice for manual milling this part

[jdm1]

Not having done anything like before I could use some advice on making this part.



It is 8mm high.
I have a machine very similar to a Deckel FP1, would be practical to use the horizontal spindle with a copying device (which I don't have and should build first)?
Or on the vertical spindle, marking a thicker material, holding the bottom and then removing it ? The sides by the caliper anvils are somewhat regular arcs.
I can only use 1045 and then harden it, It's a clutch lever for an old lathe that I'm restoring.

 

[BT Fabrication]

find metal, scribe outline into blueing surface, cut with bandsaw and file into shape. or pay someone to make it.

 

[Kingbob]

find metal, scribe outline into blueing surface, cut with bandsaw and file into shape. or pay someone to make it.

exactly this. you'll be surprised how quickly you make it - don't be intimidated by the idea of filing out a part, in 1045 expect it to take an afternoon.

 

[eKretz]

I'd probably do most of that profile on a rotary table with a vise on it, with the vertical spindle. I'd cut it with an endmill, out of a piece of stock slightly thicker than your finished size, say 1/8" - clamping on only that extra bit with the vise - I think that's what you were describing also. With the hole at the center of rotation. Some of those talon jaws or dovetailed jaws would be perfect. Then flip it over and mill off the shelf. Set it in the vise at 90° to finish the "hook" portions if you need to. This would be a good job to do on a cross slide rotary just to give it some exercise.

 

[Limy Sami]

+ Another on the hand tool job, ..machining it all you'd have umpteen set ups and still have manual finishing

 

[EmGo]

You could scribe it, then do the outside really fast on a belt sander or disc sander, then eyeball the angle on the inside and mill just that -- which leaves you just that last internal arc to file.

Pretty easy.

 

[michiganbuck]

First decide what facets are critical and make a quick sketct and size notes for them only..all the rest will be spotted the the original Part.by scibe and feel., and what ones are just in the clearance and can tolerate .005 error.. Caliper measure the hole and think about what drill, reamer , hone, gauge I might use.

For a one up I would cut a bar of 1o45 to .780 x 2 280. (For about + .020 around) but i would not measurt/ just cut off + .020 if I could Eyball + feel the part.
Blue-up the part and with a one-side-straight scriber scribe the part to the bar.
Eyeball the part angle in a mill vise and mill to +.010 of my lines.
Eyeball the long inside angle to my bar surface grinder and dress the angle to a surface grinder wheel. Set the part on the SG chuck and grind to my scribe line./and to the original part used as a spotter.
Hand grind and file to match the part likely tipping the part clamped to an angle plate to get. oo5 (eyeball) to the inside concave on the big end, and the file concave to match..
Then Vise the part with a clamp the other way to get a feel flush feel w=ith measure to critical facets, and line drill the hole.
Part might take an hour or hour and a half.
likely have an apprentice go find the right size drill to spot the hole.
Tale over to the bench geinder or use a file to round features to look like original part.
That is the kind of work I pretty much mastered...making a replacement part in rocket speed.

OPS..yes need to have the part number stamped in.

We had a heat treat book at two shops where I worked so one could look up the after heat treat change in size...that was handy.

Ops..if some really odd hole may have to spin a drill or reamerr / looks like 3/16.so a number drill would make hole to size.

 

[gbent]

How many? For even 2, certainly 4 or more, I'd make a long profile and saw individual pieces from the finished profile. Make your workpiece extra long and put it between a couple of angle plates. Use a screw on each end to make a trunion set up.

 

[CarbideBob]

Top rad sharp comer inside.
I see 10 setups and ops on a manual.
Some of these rotary axis cutting which are fun to get in the right spot.
Making a wild ass guess you do not want to drop a few thousand on form tools.
EDM wire?
There is the rough it in and use a German precision milling machine.... Otherwise know as hand files.
Hacksaw and good files in the right hands are great metal cutting tools. A skill and for sure and so slow but oh-so useful.

 

[michiganbuck]

I could likely make that part as fast/faster than/as most people could measure and draw a print.

Copy devices are great but often overkill because usually only a few dimensions are critical. Scribe and spot proved faster when getting a machining line back to running.

My buddy Bob K had ball nose probes he claimed to .0002 that he would put a part on a Bridgeport table and dead match/trace an existing part. When he quit a shop to start a boat canvas company his old shop bought him a Bridgeport so he could make traced part in his spare time.

Bob worked at Speedring, a high precisions aerospace outfit till they moved.\, pretty sharp fellow.

 

[guythatbrews]

It looks like each end is more critical than the middle. Put the hole in first. Then I'd superglue it to the stock and scribe the outline. Knock it loose. The straight facets are easy to mill in a vise. The radius below the hole stick a pin through the hole and let it rest on the top of the vise jaws. Mill facets using the pin to rotate about. Finish file the lower radius and the parts you can't mill. Consider using 4140 QT so no heat treat needed.

 

[Overland]

Wasn't there a guy that bought a boatload of new files a couple days ago ?
Somebody called him a "Greedy ........"
Maybe he could do it for you ?
Bob

 

[???]

Depends on your skill levels.

Make a gauge plate master.
Harden.
Clamp parts to master using the holes.
Rough on bandsaw.
Rotary burr with nose ground down in drill press to follow master.

Scribed line and clamped flat using holes. Mill to line which is surprisingly accurate, this is what we did at Toyota before we went to 5 axis. Finish with file and die grinder.

Die filing machine if you want to be old school.

The rhajhlinux method.
Buy Moore jig grinder and convert to CNC then take over the world of precision machining.

 

[boslab]

I would say for a basic part go back to basics, bench, hacksaw and file or files, finish with a bit of draw fileing, whilst it’s nice to machine things it’s not always necessary.
Purdy make 60,000 shotguns the trigger etc are hand filed at the bench, so it’s a valid way!
Takes time but that we have, some at least, we hope.
Mark

 

[jim rozen]

Find a buddy with a wire EDM - bring a case of beer or a bottle of wine.

 

[guythatbrews]

Wire guys drink wine? Tell me it ain't so!

 

[boslab]

They do, they’re bloody animals, waste of a good hangover imho, stick to scotch and beer lol
Mark

 

[EmGo]

Find a buddy with a wire EDM -

"Find a buddy" ?? Here's a chance to go buy a machine and yer talkin' "buddies" ?

Wire edm. Gorton Tracemaster. Desktop cnc mill. Kellering machine. Forging press. Investment castings, wax molds and sprues and gates and ovens and furnaces. Optical comparator ! A tube laser ! Waterjet ?

So many possibilities and you just want to go hassle a soon-to-be-ex 'buddy' ? Oh maaaan, the dang snow back there musta got to your head

 

[Houdini]

+1 EDM

 

[???]

Maybe we should have a budget rating on posts. As in I want to make this part but I have no money to spend so I can't pay someone to do it.