Advice on Clausing drill press

[BillyA]

The rep is right. The 200/400 is for Europe et al, not the US.
For the US, look only at the 230/460 column.


Do none of this. Motors are not all that precise, so "230" covers everything from 200 to 300 or so. There are actual spec limits, if I recall that are +/- 20% of nominal. One does not rewiire or convert at all within the spec limits for such small motors.

All these things will become clearer if one reads a textbook on electrical motors. General books on electricity won't address such things clearly enough to be useful.

General electricity is about all I've read on unfortunately. I couldn't agree more! Thank you again!

 

[BillyA]

Just got off the phone with North America RPC, gave him the info from the sticker and it sounds like I'm good to go with this 7.5 motor with the CP-7 PRO series. Very nice gentleman for sure!!!!!
Now I just have to deal with the particulars and figure out exactly where to put it.
I do appreciate all the help and advice from everyone and for everyone that gave advice and information on the VFDs, I definitely know more about those now than I did before and I may need one one of these days, I feel like this RPC is my best option considering I stumbled upon this 7.5 motor and I wanted to keep the drill press as is.
Looks like the plug and the receptacle should be marked X,Y,Z,G and not the W,X,Y,G that I have........ sound about right?

 

[Rob F.]

The plug and receptacle you have are not three phase, X,Y,Z & G are 3ø and X.Y W (white) &G (Green or Ground) are for the 125/250V ones. These plugs are meant to do BOTH 125 and 250V at the same time. Just use the bent leg as the ground (it should be labeled G and have a green screw) and the other three however you can.
You will be fine with what you have, it is technically not correct but functionally it is fine.
Now that you have a RPC you should make note of which wire will be the generated leg and be sure that one does not go to any control circuits, only to the motor. It will probably have a higher than normal voltage and that wont play nice with control circuits, the high voltage there is normal. To change direction of the motor only switch the 2 non generated legs, leaving the generated leg hooked up only to the motor. (or motor starter etc).

 

[BillyA]

The plug and receptacle you have are not three phase, X,Y,Z & G are 3ø and X.Y W (white) &G (Green or Ground) are for the 125/250V ones. These plugs are meant to do BOTH 125 and 250V at the same time. Just use the bent leg as the ground (it should be labeled G and have a green screw) and the other three however you can.
You will be fine with what you have, it is technically not correct but functionally it is fine.
Now that you have a RPC you should make note of which wire will be the generated leg and be sure that one does not go to any control circuits, only to the motor. It will probably have a higher than normal voltage and that wont play nice with control circuits, the high voltage there is normal. To change direction of the motor only switch the 2 non generated legs, leaving the generated leg hooked up only to the motor. (or motor starter etc).

Rob, thank you. I know this plug isn't technically the right one (now) and I agree with you that I should be alright using this combo. The W for white is natural and the natural on single phase basically carries the load back so it can handle a load either way, I just have to keep it all in mind while hooking it all up.
I don't have the RPC panel yet but at least I have the right model in mind, still need to get the funds for it. As far as the generated leg goes, I still have my homework cut out for me. I'm a long way from figuring out how this switch actually works on the inside, I still need to pull it out completely and see if there are labels on the bottom side of it. Guess I'll have to use my reading glasses on the small white wires because they should be labeled T1 through T6 I believe and I just can't see the small print that well anymore. I can look at a print here at work and fabricate whatever they call for and it will be 100% correct, unfortunately for me the wiring print might as well be written in a foreign language so learning that bit is on the agenda as well. I really hope this old rotary switch has some type of labeling on the bottom side, of course that would be great help. Also I don't know for sure because I don't understand the print as I said but I think all three of these hot wires do some sort of controlling for the motor? Thank you once again it is greatly appreciated everyone!

 

[Rob F.]

So in the wiring schematic you posted the generated leg from RPC would be on L1. L2 and L3 have the control for the motor starter coil .

 

[BillyA]

So in the wiring schematic you posted the generated leg from RPC would be on L1. L2 and L3 have the control for the motor starter coil .

So if I pull the switch away from the box, do you think there might be a label on the opposite side and If so, the black wire directly under the white wire should be labeled as L1 possibly? The blank squares on this label don't look faded at all, just blank and that has me thinking the missing parts of information might be on the bottom side?? I'm at work now but I'll pull it when I get home today. Thank you again!!!!

 

[Rob F.]

Do you have the motor starter option? Or just the cord to the switch to the motor. If no motor starter there is no control circuit so in that case it wont matter where the generated leg goes. If you have the motor starter then finding the L1 lead should be easy if it isnt labeled. It will be the wire by itself, the L2 & L3 each have a second wire to the motor starter on them somewhere.
I would think if they labeled the T numbers they would also label the L numbers so there is a good chance to find L1

 

[BillyA]

Do you have the motor starter option? Or just the cord to the switch to the motor. If no motor starter there is no control circuit so in that case it wont matter where the generated leg goes. If you have the motor starter then finding the L1 lead should be easy if it isnt labeled. It will be the wire by itself, the L2 & L3 each have a second wire to the motor starter on them somewhere.
I would think if they labeled the T numbers they would also label the L numbers so there is a good chance to find L1

Just the cord to the switch, I was told that the starter jumper was built into the motor itself but again, I don't really know. Is the motor starter always on the side of the motor? I'm also being told that the wiring setup on the dp motor is an odd one but there's no experts here as far as motor windings go so I have to take everything I am told with a grain of salt as they say. lol Thanks again!!!!

 

[Joe Gwinn]

Just the cord to the switch, I was told that the starter jumper was built into the motor itself but again, I don't really know. Is the motor starter always on the side of the motor? I'm also being told that the wiring setup on the dp motor is an odd one but there's no experts here as far as motor windings go so I have to take everything I am told with a grain of salt as they say. lol Thanks again!!!!

The drill press motor is pure three-phase, and so needs no starter winding. I don't recall that it is dual speed. Dual voltage and dual speed are two very different things.

 

[BillyA]

The drill press motor is pure three-phase, and so needs no starter winding. I don't recall that it is dual speed. Dual voltage and dual speed are two very different things.

The drill press motor is one voltage, 208/230v, but the switch has high-off-low and the hp is .75 & 1.5 hp
As far as the starter, I don't know, there's something about a starter coil on the left side of the print but I THINK it said something about it being an option??? I'll look in my email and find the stuff clausing sent I just know for sure that according to what they sent that if it is a single speed motor install power through the control box on the machine, if it is a two-speed motor, install power through the barrel switch. Thanks again everyone!

 

[BillyA]

Well, I took the 2 screws out of the front of the switch, rotated it 180° and there it was.... The labels I have been looking for right on the bottom. Now it's clear, L1-3 & T1-6, all accounted for.

 

[Joe Gwinn]

The drill press motor is one voltage, 208/230v, but the switch has high-off-low and the hp is .75 & 1.5 hp.

So it's single voltage, dual-speed, three-phase.

As far as the starter, I don't know, there's something about a starter coil on the left side of the print but I THINK it said something about it being an option??? I'll look in my email and find the stuff clausing sent I just know for sure that according to what they sent that if it is a single speed motor install power through the control box on the machine, if it is a two-speed motor, install power through the barrel switch. Thanks again everyone!

Three-phase motors neither need nor can use a starter motor. Three-phase motors are inherently self-starting.

Clausing's documentation will cover a range of motor options. One chooses the wiring diagram to suit the actual installed motor.

I've also run into outright errors in Clausing's wiring diagrams (on a Colchester lathe). The published circuit diagarm was clearly impossible, which helped a lot because otherwise I would have been reluctant to just dismiss it.

 

[Rob F.]

Just the cord to the switch,

Easy, just wire the receptacle any way it is easy. Be sure to make a note as to what wire is the generated leg though. The next machine you get may care about that...
If rotation is the wrong way you can change two wires at the receptacle since you only have the one machine now, all future machines will need to be changed in the machine. (or you will change the rotation of the drill press)

 

[BillyA]

So it's single voltage, dual-speed, three-phase.


Three-phase motors neither need nor can use a starter motor. Three-phase motors are inherently self-starting.

Clausing's documentation will cover a range of motor options. One chooses the wiring diagram to suit the actual installed motor.

I've also run into outright errors in Clausing's wiring diagrams (on a Colchester lathe). The published circuit diagarm was clearly impossible, which helped a lot because otherwise I would have been reluctant to just dismiss it.

Yes sir, single voltage, duel speed 3 phase. I don't have the experience or knowledge to say their diagrams are full of errors but I will say that they've confused me pretty good lol. The email has several diagrams for the motors and switches though. Thank you for the input!!!

 

[Rob F.]

The drill press motor is pure three-phase, and so needs no starter winding. I don't recall that it is dual speed. Dual voltage and dual speed are two very different things.

The drill press has the option of a motor starter, Mag starter would be another term for that, nothing to do with windings.

 

[BillyA]

Easy, just wire the receptacle any way it is easy. Be sure to make a note as to what wire is the generated leg though. The next machine you get may care about that...
If rotation is the wrong way you can change two wires at the receptacle since you only have the one machine now, all future machines will need to be changed in the machine. (or you will change the rotation of the drill press)

I'll draw up some type of diagram in or on the receptacle box in sharpie or tag the wires. Thank you!!! They do have T1- T3 labeled for the output inside the panel.

 

[Joe Gwinn]

The drill press has the option of a motor starter, Mag starter would be another term for that, nothing to do with windings.

That's a good point. Also known as a contactor. Needed for 480 Vac, but not for 240 Vac.

 

[johfoster]

Looks like you are going with an rpc, but figured I would share pictures of one of my older rockwell D.P. that we added a vfd to.

I would have liked to keep my original control buttons up front, but a knob to control variable speed and an e-stop were more practical.

I never change the belt pulley steps, and it has plenty of torque when slowed down for anything I have asked of it. The variable speed from the vfd is well worth having in my opinion. Powered with 230v single phase.

Good luck whatever you do.

 

[BillyA]

Looks like you are going with an rpc, but figured I would share pictures of one of my older rockwell D.P. that we added a vfd to.

I would have liked to keep my original control buttons up front, but a knob to control variable speed and an e-stop were more practical.

I never change the belt pulley steps, and it has plenty of torque when slowed down for anything I have asked of it. The variable speed from the vfd is well worth having in my opinion. Powered with 230v single phase.

Good luck whatever you do.
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That's a nice Rockwell there, from hand tools to most power tools, I like the older stuff better than the new stuff. I was going to go with a vfd to begin with but this 3 phase 7.5 hp idler motor just kinda fell in my lap and that brought the total price down to reaching distance for me. I never used this drill daily but years ago when I needed something for thicker metal and large holes, this clausing never let me down. I wanted to keep the high/low switch and changing speeds was as easy as selecting the speed and turning the wheel on the front (Reeves) drive, no changing the belts like I have to do now on my jet dp. As soon as I get this clausing going again, I can put my JDP17 on woodworking duty and the clausing will handle all the metalworking. Again nice Rockwell thank you for the information and thanks for posting the pictures.

 

[BillyA]

Looks like you are going with an rpc, but figured I would share pictures of one of my older rockwell D.P. that we added a vfd to.

I would have liked to keep my original control buttons up front, but a knob to control variable speed and an e-stop were more practical.

I never change the belt pulley steps, and it has plenty of torque when slowed down for anything I have asked of it. The variable speed from the vfd is well worth having in my opinion. Powered with 230v single phase.

Good luck whatever you do.
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It wouldn't take much to make a cover for the front of your drill press and a little off topic here but I like the keys on the orange bar idea as well as the paint/solvent trays too. Thanks again for the post and information.