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chisel sharpening

porthos

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Location
western pennsylvania
i've always sharpened planer blades and chisles by hand. jusd ordered a honing guide. this will work much better, i'm sure. but, is there a better way to sharpen gouges and curved chisles that by hand??
 
For carving, or for turning?

The bevels are sharpened somewhat differently between those apps.
E.g., big round dubbed bevel for turning, where the bevel rides the work and controls the cut with small movements. For carving, many of us want something more acute, perhaps less micro- dubbing at the arris.

Can it be assumed you have a bunch of India and maybe Arkansas slips?
I use the large tapered shape with inside/outside curve most. But a selection of rounds, half rounds, and tapered round cones are also useful.
The old Norton Gouge stones are superior to my mind. The modern ones have straight sides and do not come to an arris along the meeting between inside and outside faces. The old ones are round from edge to edge, or much more nearly so, and meet at a defined sharp-ish edge between the faces. (Admittedly, this feature is most useful to me for honing the off-hand ground shaper and moulder knives i used to make constantly. But i still think it is a useful feature since it makes it easier to work a gouge or any round from edge to edge.

Old version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325675260565

New version: (New version is available for le$$ s few places, just the first image i grabbed)

smt
 
I prefer to sharpen by hand, once you get used to it it goes quickly and controllably.

But I remember back in the 70's some people sharpened large carving gouges on the belt sander followed by the buffer with a stainless compound. They got wicked sharp, but you had to be very careful not to overheat on the sander, require a very light touch. Plus it was easy to over dub the edge on the buffer. But it sure was fast!
 
For carving, many of us want something more acute, perhaps less micro- dubbing at the arris.

Can it be assumed you have a bunch of India and maybe Arkansas slips?
I use the large tapered shape with inside/outside curve most. But a selection of rounds, half rounds, and tapered round cones are also useful.
The old Norton Gouge stones are superior to my mind. The modern ones have straight sides and do not come to an arris along the meeting between inside and outside faces. The old ones are round from edge to edge, or much more nearly so, and meet at a defined sharp-ish edge between the faces.

smt

Congrats. It's not often I have to look up a word. That's a new one for me. :D
 
I sharpen gouges by hand on a grinder. I'm sure a rotating gizmo that the gouge would fit and then a grind would look much better.
I would design a rotating gizmo to sharpen hand carving tools. But only after I could do it by hand first.
 
Sharpening by hand on ceramic water stones is what I do. I use Bester.
I think it's grey(400), orange(700), white(1000).
I'm not exactly sure if I got the grit numbers correct.

Then I use a traditional Japanese soft stone(2000) to finish.
 








 
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