Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
John, just seeing this. I don't think so, but will take a better look tomorrow.
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Eastwood QST 30/60 air compressor
- Thread starter Cole2534
- Start date
- Replies 106
- Views 31,300
geistinthemachine
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2022
Hey Cole,
I assume you’re replying to me, so thank you, I look forward to what you find out.
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
Yes I am! My apologies.
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
Here at the shop now.
Looks pretty easy to me, the compressor package only has 2 connections to the tank, one is compressor discharge and the other is the pressure-trol. Both could be relocated with little effort.
geistinthemachine
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2022
Sweet, thank you for the update!
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
What are you planning?
geistinthemachine
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2022
Oh, nothing exciting, I’m just not sure if I’m going to be able to make the compressor fit inside my current setup and might have to separate the tank to make it fit…
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
I believe so.
Just bought one of these Eastwood 30/60 Elite compressors. Literally just shipped in today. On one of the youtube comments i read that the compressor oil eastwood uses is not a very good one; basically standard engine oil which mixes with water too well and that using Synthetic Compressor Oil - ISO 46, SAE 20 from AMSOill is a huge upgrade. Does anyone have any opinion on this? This is my 1st scroll compressor, upgrading from 2x california air 8010 units, so still a newb on oiled compressors.
dkmc
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2002
Any actual compressor oil is much better than 'motor oil'. The water shedding ability of compressor oil being a key factor in the difference.
dkmc
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2002
How would anyone know that? Change it right away just in case.
john.k
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2012
- Location
- Brisbane Qld Australia
Screw compressors need a water shedding oil.............if the unit runs hot/continuous ,you will need a very good (steam turbine grade) R&O oil to avoid oxidation...........most of the screw compressor makers sell a (very costly) oil as part of their "exchange assurance program" .....oddly enough Sullair also recommend ATF of some kind (got the manuals somewhere ).........anyhoo,a R&O steam turbine oil of the correct grade is cheap insurance against trouble..........every oil supplier has a screw compressor oil specification.
john.k
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2012
- Location
- Brisbane Qld Australia
Heres anothr interesting fact........if your workers breathe the air ,you cant change brands of oil............most will go off sick ..........the new manager found this out (shortly before he was fired)
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
I've still never changed mine. Whoops.
john.k
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2012
- Location
- Brisbane Qld Australia
Im pretty sure one of the big makers(Sullair?) says if you use their oil,you dont need to change it (between overhauls) ........Anyhoo,the air intake filter would be most important IMHO .........the oil is actually filtered by the separator quite effectively......some of big screws also have a bearing filter or strainer with fine mesh.
Been running it with my blast cabinet so far. Works very well. I am using the eastwoods sand blasting nozzle, which is rated at 10scfm and the compressor actually shuts down with full tank, so yeah it is more air than i actually need.
Strangely, i do hear a small rattle for about a quarter or may be a half of a second when the motor starts up. Is this normal? I cheched the motor/compressor mounting bolts and they are tight.
Strangely, i do hear a small rattle for about a quarter or may be a half of a second when the motor starts up. Is this normal? I cheched the motor/compressor mounting bolts and they are tight.
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
Mine has been doing it since new. Now idea what it is, but it's been consistent so I don't believe it to be doing any harm.
According to email from eastwood: "If the noise is coming from below the air filter box, if so it's the intake check valve and that is normal and will subside.".
In my case it feels like the whole compressor motor assembly shakes a little, almost like when gears engage. Is that how yours sounds as well? I am not sure how valid is the eastwoods explanation about the check valve, because i only get this vibration / noise at start up, not at shutdown.
In my case it feels like the whole compressor motor assembly shakes a little, almost like when gears engage. Is that how yours sounds as well? I am not sure how valid is the eastwoods explanation about the check valve, because i only get this vibration / noise at start up, not at shutdown.
